Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

57 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Very nice . In case people don't realise these are the same as the brembo brakes fitted to VF commodores.

I did not, though have heard great things about CTSV kits in general and had thought about converting to them one day, as the pad size in these things is massive, way, way, way, way bigger than the D2/Ksport/Attakd 356mm kit I currently have.


Alpha Omega did a kit for the S15 but don't do it anymore..

1 hour ago, PranK said:

Good info!

Actually I will add to the good info now that I think of it.

commodores had different tapped holes in the caliper depending on the year. Can't remember what size or when it changed.....

not a dealbreaker but something to keep in mind with brake swaps

  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/3/2020 at 7:43 PM, GTSBoy said:

Offset has less impact than you think. Spoke shape is more important. After all, the hub face of the wheel is always the same distance from the brakes, regardless of the offset.

Makes sense. This is what I’m working with right now, i just don’t want to order everything and the calipers not fit behind the wheels

D65320D0-4A28-43C4-ACD3-EB2D17AA9F6E.jpeg

A91304BD-331C-40F2-B3F6-17F89FE67A47.jpeg

AB820D7A-0DD1-45A8-BDBB-B7761EFB2799.jpeg

Yah, see the back face of those spokes is not very far from the hub face. That's a function of both the style of the wheel/spoke and the offset. A lower offset wheel might give you more room there because there would be more meat in the hub face, even if nothing else changed. But other wheels will have a deeper recess for the wheel nuts and the spokes are therefore further out, or curve out a bit more, etc etc.

Anyway, those wheels look to be about the worst possible for brake clearance (that still clear!).

5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yah, see the back face of those spokes is not very far from the hub face. That's a function of both the style of the wheel/spoke and the offset. A lower offset wheel might give you more room there because there would be more meat in the hub face, even if nothing else changed. But other wheels will have a deeper recess for the wheel nuts and the spokes are therefore further out, or curve out a bit more, etc etc.

Anyway, those wheels look to be about the worst possible for brake clearance (that still clear!).

Well that’s just fantastic lol, i like the simple 5 spoke look, but really wanted to fit some bigger brakes. I guess i can’t have my cake and eat it.

I would say it depends on both spoke face and offset, and the Enkei RS05RR is a good example.  The 18x10 +22mm would not clear stock R32 caliper, however both 18x9.5 +22mm and 18x10.5 +15mm would.  I emailed Enkei Japan directly and that's the response I got.  The 9.5 is M face and 10/10.5 are R face. 

9 hours ago, Darkslide88 said:

Well that’s just fantastic lol, i like the simple 5 spoke look, but really wanted to fit some bigger brakes. I guess i can’t have my cake and eat it.

I know what you mean. The Desmond Regamaster style is a great, simple design, and has huge brake clearance. Unfortunately the copies don't, as they tend to favour dish and it's probably cheaper to make small backspace wheels (or there's no big demand for big brake clearance). Sadly the remake of their EVO2 wheels comes in weird (to us Nissan folk) sizes (still in pre-order stage it looks like).

Generally you want wheels that clear Brembo or Akebono 4 pots. Enkei usually lists what brakes their wheels clear.

3 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

I know what you mean. The Desmond Regamaster style is a great, simple design, and has huge brake clearance. Unfortunately the copies don't, as they tend to favour dish and it's probably cheaper to make small backspace wheels (or there's no big demand for big brake clearance). Sadly the remake of their EVO2 wheels comes in weird (to us Nissan folk) sizes (still in pre-order stage it looks like).

Generally you want wheels that clear Brembo or Akebono 4 pots. Enkei usually lists what brakes their wheels clear.

Ya i guess wheel spacers is always an option to clear brakes 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I sense an out of control build thread coming up lololol. That 450kW goal will end up being 600 to 700kW LOL.
    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
×
×
  • Create New...