Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No flex z is twin tube still and not replacement for mono flex which is single tube, that is mono sport. Replacements are:

Tein super street > street advance (both twin tube) still 5 / 4 on bnr32

Tein type flex > flex z (both twin tube) now 7 / 6 on bnr32

Tein mono flex > mono sport (both single/mono tube) now 10 / 8 on bnr32

All construction appears to be of a cheaper construction compared to the old lineup according to a few sources as I was going to get a set of mono sport for my Bcnr33. I think I'll go with the Ohlins mono tube after Tein has changed their lineup.

 

 

 

Why the hell is any "top shelf" damper being made in a twin tube design in this day and age?  FFS!
Because most old school JDM brands never changed design or improved development to modern standard so they got left behind in the 90's.
HKS, Tomei, Tein, Greddy, Defi etc

The part number listed is the full damper kit part number, the part number in your pick above is the damper only part number. I take it that's the rear above, check your front, it should have a different number. Fulcrum suspension being the Tein Australian supplier and service company did release Australian spec super streets also, but I believe the Aussie stuff was made softer than the Jap stuff and don't know if this was done at a spring level or a damper valving level. I would suspect at a spring level as that would be easier than revalving. Give Fulcrum a call to find out as you may in fact have Aussie spec ones. Regardless, the spring rate is probably as listed by Tein.

On ‎4‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 9:29 AM, GTSBoy said:

Why the hell is any "top shelf" damper being made in a twin tube design in this day and age?  FFS!

Twin tube does have it's pros, cheaper construction, lower gas pressures, but mainly that you can damage the outer body and it won't affect the operation of the damper piston moving as that runs on the inner tube. This would be the main reason all oem dampers are this way as if the damper has an external impact and damages the outer body, the damper is not a throw away like a mono tube. Obviously the valving in twin tube dampers is shit because the pistons are so much smaller compared to a mono design and that changes the valving oil orifice size, and why good performance dampers aren't usually twin tube.

On ‎4‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 2:13 PM, Leroy Peterson said:

Because most old school JDM brands never changed design or improved development to modern standard so they got left behind in the 90's.
HKS, Tomei, Tein, Greddy, Defi etc

That's not true at all. Tein, HKS, Cusco ect. have all made mono tube dampers in the 90's. Tein RA were monotube. HKS hypermax III / IV are monotube, but remember they aren't a suspension company either. Can't really compare HKS, Greddy, ect. to Tein though as they are a suspension company only like Bilstein, Ohlins, Supashock ect. and they offer a much wider range from very entry level to their upper end performance stuff (like the dear as poison $5 - $20k dampers like Super racing, HT, Group N, N1 dampers). It's a shame they have appeared to have cut production costs on their lower end stuff. That said they have just released a proper replacement for the mono flex - the mono racing which is valved like the $5k+ Super racing damper allegedly and is around $2.5 - $3.5k.

At the risk of sounding like a smart ass, there's a lot more to it than 'mono tube are better'

For example, arguably the best dampers in the world the Ohlins TTX 40 are twin tube (that's what the TT stands for)

https://www.ohlins.com/product/ttx40-mk-ii/

Having said that, they are a well researched and engineered solution from a company that expends a huge amount of time resources on a product that works. I think generally speaking for less well resourced/mass market companies a montube is simpler to execute to a higher standard and provides increased flexibility when pushing out designs across a number of platforms. 

These are quite specialised twin tube dampers, and are far from comparable to the regular twin tube out there with 20 - 30mm pistons. These have 40mm pistons which are similar to most mono tube dampers at around 40 - 45mm which is important. No doubt a good damper, hey it is Ohlins, and they are specialised suspension.

Usually mono tube is better, above is an exception.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..   
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...