Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They had sent me a walkaround of the car showing all the areas where the clearcoat was peeling and offered to repaint the car if I wanted so I had them go ahead and repaint the car A54 to be a brighter color than the AH3.

IMG_5891.JPG

IMG_5892.JPG

IMG_5894.JPG

Once the car was in my hands, I needed to get rid of those dated RPF1's.  I know they are a favorite of most of the car community but they just aren't my taste.  Went with a set of 18x9 +30 Aodhan LS007's on 245/35 BF Goodrich G-Force T/A KDW's.  I love the aggressive tread pattern.

IMG_1010.JPG

IMG_0843.JPG

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
6 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Good work. Have you considered replacing the heater core while the dash is out!

I actually was thinking of replacing all of the heat and ac components that I can come across to make sure its good for another 25 years! 

9 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Is that Active Red? 

Hahaha!  Paint code is A54.  I'm sure it goes by a few different names, but wanted to keep it a Nissan color.  I wasn't a fan of the AH3.  Too dark and gloomy for me.  

18 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Similar but no, Nissan had quite a few reds through the models. This looks good. 

Why are you pulling it down if it was already resprayed? 

I like your wheels better than the RPFs

because when it was painted, they didnt do the engine bay so it didnt match.  and then some quarter panel rust was coming back so I decided to get the overfenders to get rid of it...and then went wider front fenders, hood, bumper, and spoiler...so it all just needed to get done since I was pulling the motor too.  I basically want it to be pretty much a brand new car when its back together and last another 25 years lol.

9 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Nice, it will look great when it's done.

Plans for the engine? 

full rebuild to just refresh everything and then bolt on some good stuff.  kinugawa bolt on turbo.  fmic.  r35 coils, r35 injectors, emu black ecu, front facing intake w/ ls drive by wire throttle body, 350z drive by wire pedal, tomei cams and adjustable gears.  all the basics.  I'm also completely removing hicas with an s13 subframe and all of gktech's adjustable arms, and added air ride.  

Should be a tidy little rig. 

Could I possibly encourage you to go something better than Kinugawa... 

RB20 needs all the help it can get with response. A Twin Scroll GTX would do nicely without breaking the bank. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...