Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

 

Need a new clutch for more power / current one is worn, I have the GTT (RB25DET Neo) was wondering if anyone has any tips on what to look for?

Will any aftermarket single plate do? Currently looking at https://www.gameonmotorsports.com.au/npc-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-pull-type-clutch-r34-gt~44571

Looking to make about 375kw~

Edited by thenixtone
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477812-suggestions-on-a-new-clutch/
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, thenixtone said:

Ah right, my bad, I thought this was a forum.. for discussions. A clutch place isn't going to tell me if their clutch is shit, are they?

Maybe they would if you asked about an unsuitable model in a particular application.

call npc. Tell them what you want. Call Jim Berry. Call acs

21 minutes ago, thenixtone said:

Ah right, my bad, I thought this was a forum.. for discussions. A clutch place isn't going to tell me if their clutch is shit, are they?

On that basis, we could trot out the passive aggressive claim that no-one has ever asked that question on this forum before and that it would be impossible to search for previous/recent discussion.

6 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

On that basis, we could trot out the passive aggressive claim that no-one has ever asked that question on this forum before and that it would be impossible to search for previous/recent discussion.

You mean like the original passive aggressive comment I was responding to? 

And of course I searched. Its hard to find information with exact power figures. How do you think I came across the NPC clutch that people on here recommend..? 

Every thread that COULD be answered elsewhere is useless apparently.

 

Besides 'this one fits' I was after actual experiences and feedback.

Edited by thenixtone

Budget? Where/how you are using the car?

 

I have ACT 6 Puck with Extreme pressure plate (rated to 830nm iirc) on my rb30/25 street car (550hp/730nm) and Im happy with it. We dont really have bad traffic here where I live though

 

 

On ‎18‎/‎07‎/‎2019 at 4:46 PM, WR33KD said:

OS R3C here aswell, only clutch you will ever need

In a rwd application under 400kw yes, so fine for the GTT in this application, but not in a GTR launching at 7000rpm +. I killed a brand new one in one drag weekend, completely warping the metallic floating discs to the point the clutch wouldn't disengage.

Probably not relevant in this situation, but just pointing out that they are not the "be all to end all" of clutches at all. They also drive like shit on the street, very hair trigger engagement.

  • Like 1
2 minutes ago, WR33KD said:

Mines mint she feels like a standard clutch, done plenty of hard take offs and still feels great. I’m over 400kw and rwd and it’s the bees knees and it has a changeable centre not like others

What you got?

 

1 hour ago, BK said:

In a rwd application under 400kw yes, so fine for the GTT in this application, but not in a GTR launching at 7000rpm +. I killed a brand new one in one drag weekend, completely warping the metallic floating discs to the point the clutch wouldn't disengage.

Probably not relevant in this situation, but just pointing out that they are not the "be all to end all" of clutches at all. They also drive like shit on the street, very hair trigger engagement.

Jesus..

 

Is the difference between button and cushion button that big of a deal for street driving?

29 minutes ago, thenixtone said:

What you got?

 

Jesus..

 

Is the difference between button and cushion button that big of a deal for street driving?

Nope. The cushion has very little effect. A button clutch is going to be pretty much off or on and  don't like slipping

 

1 hour ago, WR33KD said:

Mines mint she feels like a standard clutch, done plenty of hard take offs and still feels great. I’m over 400kw and rwd and it’s the bees knees and it has a changeable centre not like others

All multiplate clutches have a changeable centre hub by design, so thats not anything special. Maybe your R3C seems a bit nicer to drive in a rwd car, because any metallic triple plate I've had in a GTR has a hair trigger and not really slippable, definitely nowhere near a standard or full face clutch plate type. I've had ORC (Ogura), Xtreme (ACS), Exedy and OS Giken all in triples and all basically felt like the same clutch.

OP, The Nismo twin, NPC twin or even the OS giken TS2B will probably be a nicer clutch to drive for you and handle your power for quite sometime. $1500 or less though is going to limit you to buying a single plate though, as I think you'll need to stretch a bit more to at least go a twin or triple if you can afford it.

1 hour ago, BK said:

All multiplate clutches have a changeable centre hub by design, so thats not anything special. Maybe your R3C seems a bit nicer to drive in a rwd car, because any metallic triple plate I've had in a GTR has a hair trigger and not really slippable, definitely nowhere near a standard or full face clutch plate type. I've had ORC (Ogura), Xtreme (ACS), Exedy and OS Giken all in triples and all basically felt like the same clutch.

OP, The Nismo twin, NPC twin or even the OS giken TS2B will probably be a nicer clutch to drive for you and handle your power for quite sometime. $1500 or less though is going to limit you to buying a single plate though, as I think you'll need to stretch a bit more to at least go a twin or triple if you can afford it.

Awesome, thanks for the info. Think I'm going to spend the money and get the coppermix. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...