Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK GUYS.....hoping some one with more upstairs than me can maybe shed some light on my problem...being its doing my f#@king head in ..!!!

what I am working with ::; R33 (S2) SEDAN. (5 Speed )106,XXX Kys. 160 across all 6. ALL BLITZ :: TD05 TURBO. alloy intake. I/COOLER. twin ZONE BOOST CONTROLLER. Alloy INTAKE. pod filter . 100 Mill EXHAUST. 750 Injectors . Blitz reg.. t/ timer. ect.ect..

I am an old fart now and had 12 R33,s over my time but THIS ….  has got me ….Whenever it wants to it just shits itself "spark" wise and misses and spits and breaks down at ANY REVS..?  it CAN do this  after a cold start at tick over and run on 4 ? (sounds like it ?) it WILL come good ? ?  hit the road and 10 mins later of good get up and go.....  it falls apart AGAIN ….on boost .. or...off boost !! (running 1.2 bar...  

NOW...have changed Coil Packs (new )...have changed plugs (new ) I evan bought 2 sets of plugs in case a couple were dicky ??  NOT 6 months ago had a full (POWER F/C ) TUNE !  any help on this Fella,s would be appreciated ? …..OR.....  I am in for another Power F/C tune....!!!!  cheers Nick P.

cheers my friend ...for the quick Reply !  THIS...is why I posted up !!  do you start throwing coin at an "RB" trying to snag a "WIN" when It come to this sort of problem ?  ( I am looking at CAS ? ) at this stage ?

have another R33 Coupe in the gge… may swap these units over to see IF I get lucky ?

Just finished changing ALL "vac"  lines just in case ?  thanks for your Input !

Boost leaks are frequently found hiding in metal to metal seals with gaskets (think plenum, etc).

What plug gaps?

What are the new coils? If they are rainbow coloured, they are for rainbows. We only accept new genuine Nissan, Splitfire, or substantial upgrades as proof that they should work.

State of the fuel pump? If it's dying, it can cause lean misses.

GTS BOY....  I AM over it already !!   have better things to do on a Sat than chase gremlins ??

NOT  a boost leak.  this IS DEF an electrical problem !

but in answer to your Q,s....  "yellow jacket" coils. plug gap "08". does not matter if I have the $130 a set plugs in... or....  the $35 a set in ?? the problem IS inconsistent !!! this IS what is doing my head in ??

can miss on start up...… can miss when ever it wants at any rev range. can be cruising along at 60 kys and you can feel it come on (car falls apart ) ? 5 maybe 10 mins of Shit..... and it goes away till later ?

have closed the bonnet for now & will book it in with Matty at PITTS  next week.. !! "book it" don't know how long before I can get in into him to check it out . Busy Shop by all accounts ?? Shit happens I guess.

OK GUYS..??   "YELLOW JACKET" COILS !!!

 I AM going to take a shot in the dark here and say you boys DONT like them..? 

any advance on 2 Peeps saying THEY are my problem here ??   cheers.

LOL....

Love the hit rate, 9/10 misfires always relate to colourful coil packs.

My advice, stick to black OR blue.. avoid any other colour 

 

How to fix:

  1. Buy proper coil packs, can be OEM or R35 conversion kit or Genuine Splitfire ones
  2. Remove current set
  3. Throw them into the bin
  4. Install new coilpacks
  5. Start up car
  6. Do a massive skid and post it up here
  • Like 1

Take the CAS off and turn it by hand - feel for any roughness that indicates stuffed bearing - or better still swap in a known good one.

Yellow Jackets (or red ones or anything but OEM or Splitfires) are a known weak point.

Could still be fuel supply problem.

OK BOB...totally agree with "cas" ? so have today had this out & swapped with one from my build r33 coupe in the GGE... NO change . so its not this.

Fuel delivery was done by previous owner ? don't know what pump it is but by jingo it IS a big unit ? I have a 044 In the coupe and this pump is twice the bloody size (all black ) !!

still leaning towards C/Packs ? car was doing the same but worse around 14 months ago with the stockers in...  hence the yellows . will grab a set of SPITS and throw these in and see if I get lucky ?

if not……..   tuner !!

  • Like 1

OK LADS....   I get your point !!   YES...  the car was running rough soon after I bought it and the "yellow jackets" fixed this a while back !   now back to crap again .

being an old fart at 63 …  I am looking elsewhere being I have  not got 2 years out of the yellow,s ?

not to mention...….  shit I am going though some fuel at the moment !!!!!

have put my name on a set of gen spitfires and will post up what if anything changes when fitted ??

appreciate your input lads...…….   cheers Nick P.

Bit from left field, but does the Power FC have programmable coil dwell. If set too high it will burn out the coils (personal experience).

My Wolf is set between 0.5 and 1.2 ms

2 hours ago, blind_elk said:

Bit from left field, but does the Power FC have programmable coil dwell

No, and also with the none conventional coils from the land of dim sum and yumcha they actually misfire more with dwell and proceed to melt (ask me how I know) 

OK....   Quick one lads...  I can lay my hands on a very good set of "spits"

question  ::::   they are for/off a 1996 GTR....WILL these fit my (S2) RB25DET ???

How can I tell..??   the seller Don't know ???  cheers Nick .

On 31/08/2019 at 4:33 PM, GTSBoy said:

The forum software needs an auto reply function where if an OP mentions the words "miss" or "rough" or "yellow" or "red" it will say back "It's the f**king coils!"

FYP?

  • Haha 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
×
×
  • Create New...