Jump to content
SAU Community

Need help with choosing a clutch for R34 RB26

Baroque
 Share

Recommended Posts

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Dil-Dog said:

Just make sure that you get a PULL type clutch

why ? push clutches dominate the market, available in many more configurations, and are more practical to actually work on. Yes it does require a conversion in a 93 - 94 R32/,R33/R34 GTR situation but it seems like you are inferring that pull is better than push.

I fully converted my R33 GTR away from pull to push for this reason for more clutch options, and no not the OS giken pull to push arrangement which still uses pull slave and line. On my R33 GTR I did full R32 GTR 11/16" push slave cylinder, push gearbox front cover, uprated cast alloy Z33/Z34 instead of pressed steel clutch bearing release fork, chromoly fork pivot (not the Nismo reinforced push pivot) and braided reservoir to clutch slave line deleting all that hard line bullshit that Nissan uses to the slave cylinder. End result is gold, actually works properly and reliably.

2 hours ago, Baroque said:

-Im looking ONLY for NON RATTLE situation(especially on idle)

Have you actually read anything I've said ? Any idle noise from the Getrag box is going to come down to your flywheel being dual mass or single mass, not the clutch plate count or what the plates are made of. I have given you the pros and cons of each flywheel type. You still haven't outlined a power figure which is actually important in this part selection. Is it stock, 300, 400kw at wheels ect. It determines what you need or should use.

Sorry but I'm out. Any GTR is not a refined, smooth and silent type of car like you are trying to make it out to be. I wish you the best of luck and I hope I've been a help to some degree.

I suggest you give a clutch specialist like Australian Clutch Services or NPC a call for any further info to help you.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, BK said:

why ? push clutches dominate the market, available in many more configurations, and are more practical to actually work on. Yes it does require a conversion in a 93 - 94 R32/,R33/R34 GTR situation but it seems like you are inferring that pull is better than push.

I fully converted my R33 GTR away from pull to push for this reason for more clutch options, and no not the OS giken pull to push arrangement which still uses pull slave and line. On my R33 GTR I did full R32 GTR 11/16" push slave cylinder, push gearbox front cover, uprated cast alloy Z33/Z34 instead of pressed steel clutch bearing release fork, chromoly fork pivot (not the Nismo reinforced push pivot) and braided reservoir to clutch slave line deleting all that hard line bullshit that Nissan uses to the slave cylinder. End result is gold, actually works properly and reliably.

Have you actually read anything I've said ? Any idle noise from the Getrag box is going to come down to your flywheel being dual mass or single mass, not the clutch plate count or what the plates are made of. I have given you the pros and cons of each flywheel type. You still haven't outlined a power figure which is actually important in this part selection. Is it stock, 300, 400kw at wheels ect. It determines what you need or should use.

Sorry but I'm out. Any GTR is not a refined, smooth and silent type of car like you are trying to make it out to be. I wish you the best of luck and I hope I've been a help to some degree.

I suggest you give a clutch specialist like Australian Clutch Services or NPC a call for any further info to help you.

I dunno about you but I find the Skyline GT-Rs to be surprisingly refined. With the R34 they were definitely trying to go for more refinement, easier to drive, etc. The R35 only continues the trend. If anything the R35's native NVH is a little worse because of the V6, they just muffle and dampen everything to be what you expect from a modern car.

I would say if OP is really, really obsessed with getting as little noise as possible the only choice is to use a new OEM dual mass flywheel and an upgraded single plate like mentioned in this thread. If he's willing to compromise a little with the dual plate chatter then ATS silent twin plate. If he's ok with some of this noise then Coppermix twin or ATS twin plate. This is the stuff we're talking about though: 

 

Baroque Apprentice

Baroque

Posted
  • Author
Posted

In my situation,i could use single plate because of the soft and sensible style of drive I prefer . If this car with single plate would be used by a guy who need high rpms,reving,launch control all the time and burnout lovers,of course it would crack to the lil pieces in a week.Yesterday i did some new calculations what the project is gonna be in power matter.Stock r34 clutch,as i heard,holds up to around 500-550 hp.Primary I estimated my power for 550-570hp.So i knew i could use aftermarket single,but as I wrote,twin would be better if I could solve the rattle problem. After second calculation that i said above it will be 600-650hp so now i know exactly,that i need twin plate.

Its not a obsession joshua.I just want to be one,unique son of a *itch who could cope with that problem the best way possible,even if it takes to spend huge amount of money.Thats the respect i give to this car lets say. .Everything to the perfection.

 

 

Baroque Apprentice

Baroque

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I wanted to say earlier of course,one and unique if no one ever did this the best way possible,because if so,i will be next,but as i saw on the internet,people are giving up and accepting that con of multiplate.I have will for 10 years now,and money to do perfect project,so don't judge me for that,and my detailed needs..If the rattle cannot be solved totally,im talking of course about lowering the noise to the minimum.However i cannot help myself in 100% because its not my knowledge field,thats why choose you guys to help me,what to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BaronOBeefdip
      Baron's R34 GT-R build thread - car in Japan for 5 years -_-

      By BaronOBeefdip · Posted

      Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Bwagz
      Engine model

      By Bwagz · Posted

      Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • MBS206
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Piggaz
      Garrett G Series

      By Piggaz · Posted

      Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...