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Finally Gotten around to starting my Diy RHD Twin Turbo Build.

Posting it all up to my Youtube Channel as i'm **** at typing stuff out

I've already done 2 fuel system mod vids, but this is the first proper start of the Twin Turbo Build.

Hope some of you guys find it interesting.

 

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Way to go Trevor, looks like fun. Enjoyed the DIY milling you did.  How do you plan to route the turbo plumbing re the trans ? Also who will beef up the trans? (I assume 7AT)

Cheers

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by mybrains

G'day Mate, plumbing isn't an issue with the trans, all good.

Trans is 5at RE5R05A.

I did the valve body myself a couple of years ago, I have a Fast Intentions Billet Flex Plate & will do the converter while its out for this part of the build.

The whole trans will get a rebuild & beef up as soon as I can afford it too. Hopefully sooner rather than later.

Probably have a crack at it myself.

Cheers.

I read somewhere the 5AT holds together better than the 7AT. I know of a few co-s in USA that can rebuild these trans tougher but not heard of anybody local? maybe ship in a kit ..... (for us less skilled than you :)

Also re motor CR being 11:1 and adding boost on top of this -  do you plan to rebuild the motor (pistons, rings, rods+rebore) or keep stock and maybe decompress somewhat with thick/multiple head gaskets ?  No idea if a head height increase would foul the intakes being a V design.... E85 (105-107 ron) is a choice to help out but being 30% less efficient the driving range would have to be impacted (and any rubber in the fuel line, maps etc). I did read that a few United servos have P100 (98 Octane + 10% ethanol). This seems a better high CR fuel to keep teh range up though not as high RON.

 

Yeah i was reading the 7AT is fragile compared to the 5AT.
Stock 5AT's can handle around 500whp fine as is. Depends how much power this brings out.

Motor unopened will also run 450hp-500hp Safely. e85 around 11psi is fine for that power.

We have a 370z in our car club running 450rwhp @6psi on 98. Never once had a mechanical issue.

Cheers Guys, yep stock motor, as stated above no real reason to be dropping compression, doing a rebuild etc.

Sure if you were looking to build a monster & had plenty of $$$$'s to throw at it, by all means.

For Street Duty its quite capable as is with some low boost.

There are many other limitations for how far i go with true street driven vehicles too, no 1 being Driver Skill.

Should be plenty for an old fart like me.

Was hoping to get quite a bit more done on it this week, but unfortunately the wife had a fall on Sunday putting up Christmas decorations of all things & Fractured her Spine. So needless to say I've been in out of the Hospital all week.

I'll be loading up a couple of videos on some other stuff i'd already finished (not car related) to my youtube channel tomorrow, so don't be disappointed when other stuff shows up if you have subscribed to me.

The Turbo Build will be continuing, just a badly timed hiccup.

Apologies Guys,

Cheers,

Trev.

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
5 hours ago, mycarhasposessedme said:

Episode 2 up now if anyone's interested.

Cheers.

 

re steering knuckle - great explanation, thanks !  What about using matching turbos (one reverse - see pic. That should allow complementary piping) ? 

turbo set.jpg

Edited by mybrains

Also here is the new OEM Garrett MGT offset turbo. Its designed to shoot the compressor outlet straight upwards to the manifold (via air to water intercoolers mounted on manifold). Yes its small (450HP) but Ill find out if Garrett have slightly bigger ones or if it can have the compressor side upgraded & wastegate ported at least to get to 500hp.

 

IMG_7705.jpg

IMG_7713.jpg

IMG_7710.jpg

Edited by mybrains

Trev,  you using T2 or T3 size ? I cant tell size from the utube pic. Initially T2 frame would be my thought due to space limitations. I have no experience regarding IHI or borg warner turbos but wonder if they are better than Garrett in tight spaces. AAM kit uses borg for instance.

Those little MGT offsets above Nissan VR30s are using look T1 in scale to me. Part number MGT14446LKSZ, MGT 14 series. The Q50/60 tuners have maxed them to 17+PSI/E85. Yes they choke on top end of curve, but they do give fantastic low to mid power without lag (Nissan goal no doubt). Also their tiny frame fits in the limited space even better. I now wonder if a T1 size compromise may be the best on a stock V36 block ?   Food for thought. 

 

 

 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm liking your video blog of your project's progress mate. I don't see myself ever going to that effort but that doesn't stop me from admiring your commitment and craftsmanship.

Question for you about your engine mounts. I noticed you've got the Z1 Motorsports urethane mounts on it. Do you consider them to be worthwhile even before embarking on the turbo project? Did you do the transmission mount while you were at it? Any other mounts along the line that are worth mentioning, such as the diff bush?

Just been working my way through the Z1 catalogue and I'm contemplating what I should add to my retail therapy list. Thanks!!

G'day Mate,  I installed the Z1 Urethane Transmission Mount about 2 years ago, in my opinion it was a worthwhile mod. The trans does move around a bit on those hard launches & 1-2, 2-3 changes. It totally solved that.

I also did the rear cradle bushes (whiteline Urethane) & also the Diff Bush (again Whiteline Urethane).

They were done around 3 years ago & again imo a worthwhile upgrade. The NVH has gone up quite a bit, though for me that's not a problem. I would describe it as a bit of road rumble & you can feel the drive line when accelerating etc. Its really not that bad though. Some folks are really funny about that sort of thing, so it appears to be a bit of a personal preference.

Basically, every suspension component you change will add a degree of NVH.

The Factory package is pretty good to be honest, apart from just general mushiness, considering how well it handles stock & how well it isolates.

Cheers Mate.

  • Like 1

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