Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25 CAS vs Trigger kit

Nyoom

By Nyoom,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nyoom Apprentice

Nyoom

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, first time poster, looking for some advice/help with my R33 S2 gtst.

Pretty sure my CAS just died as the car cranks but wont start. A few weeks ago I took it out to get to my power steering pump and the key on the camshaft side was snapped and floating around.

I managed to realign it when I put the car back together and it ran with no issues. Went down to start it yesterday and the car would not start. Cranked with enough battery voltage to start, ecu came out with code 55 so I have nothing else to suspect other than the CAS being faulty. I took the spark plugs out and they didnt smell like petrol.

Going test with a multimeter to make sure but I had a question before I go ahead and buy a new CAS for $550 (if anyone has one id buy it for cheaper, im located in Sydney).

I have a power fc I have yet to install, and I have not been able to find anywhere a Trigger kit that says it will work or have enough information of their page. Since ill probably have to get a new CAS my thought was why not just upgrade to trigger kit for around the same price, or just a little bit more. I'm not particularly aiming to make power that requires a trigger kit, but aligning the CAS everytime without the key is gonna get annoying. (I will eventually upgrade to tomei cams but am holding off until I finish the rest of the work I need done)

I've had a look at most of the trigger kits out there (PRP, Ross, Hi Octance, etc.) but if anyone has any insight whether any of them will work with a Power FC that would be helpful!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479495-rb25-cas-vs-trigger-kit/
Share on other sites
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/VG30DETT_CAS_COUPLING_MISALIGNMENT.pdf

You need to repair the CAS regardless if you want to run a PowerFC. Also I would recommend keeping the CAS for its actual purpose, which is a cam sensor. The OEM CAS is great at syncing the engine quickly during cranking as it has distinct home signals for each cylinder.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

The OEM CAS is great at syncing the engine quickly during cranking as it has distinct home signals for each cylinder.

Yeah, but that's only true for stock type ECUs. The Nissan ECu seems to be able to punch through the jittery noise of the stock CAS at high rpm much better than all other ECUs. All the aftermarket ECUs just suck compared to the factory ECU, perhaps with the PowerFc being halfway between (as I suspect the PFC as being based on a Hitachi ECU anyway). But for anything where there is serious risk of timing jitter killing the engin at high rpm and loads (ie, any serious build), the factory CAS sucks balls and should be replaced with a proper trigger system - which includes a new cam sensor.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, but that's only true for stock type ECUs. The Nissan ECu seems to be able to punch through the jittery noise of the stock CAS at high rpm much better than all other ECUs. All the aftermarket ECUs just suck compared to the factory ECU, perhaps with the PowerFc being halfway between (as I suspect the PFC as being based on a Hitachi ECU anyway). But for anything where there is serious risk of timing jitter killing the engin at high rpm and loads (ie, any serious build), the factory CAS sucks balls and should be replaced with a proper trigger system - which includes a new cam sensor.

I was under the impression that the cam signal is not particularly difficult to parse and could be left alone, it was really just the crank signal that was particularly problematic. Has anyone tried running the OEM cam signal + aftermarket crank trigger?

Nyoom Apprentice

Nyoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the info guys.

Just went to test the CAS with a multimeter and all seems fine to me, getting readings on power and the 2 signal wires and can also hear the injectors clicking as I spin the shaft. Kind of at a loss from where to go from here. Am I missing something?

Since it looks like it's a good idea to replace the exhaust cam, which drop in cams should I go for that wouldn't require an immediate tune?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...