Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've been discussion on and off for BBK options with Brakes Direct. I've bought some pads off them in the past,  and I have to say, that they are very responsive and approachable, so big thumbs up to them.

Has anyone used their Forza floating rotors at all? They use Alcon calipers which is very impressive too. They offered a  Front(365/32 with 6 piston CAR97 calipers) and Rear(335/28 with 4 piston CAR36 Calipers) kit for my 32R and just wondering really if you guys have any feedback on their BBK's at all?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479995-brakes-direct-bbk/
Share on other sites

I have he brake kit as do many I race with etc

The product is good and has been proven

Word of warning through experience of myself and many many many people I know

I agree they are responsive and approachable and will take your $ but dont expect you order anytime soon or trust any time line they give you. But you get your stuff eventually

no matter what they say expect somewhere between 3 - 6 months 

 

as they bulk buy etc out of China for some parts they have no control over timelines and given the recent CV there might be more delays / problems also just as a thought

98372994_Alconcalipers.thumb.jpg.c87602575e4914c24e674b148284d9b5.jpg1146943393_Forzadisks.thumb.jpg.c8e458f8b3227f801e208e5e7340a4c6.jpg467360727_Brakeson.thumb.jpg.15f6d0e4e4352a7883b967df72f2e75d.jpg

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 1

Been on track about 4 /5 times with it - prob not even reached its potential yet - I went from R34 Brembo with Project Mu 2 piece rotors and H16 03 comp pads to yes the 365mm kit on the front and the Forza 6 brake pads provided with it and significant improved braking - not fade in 3 lap sprint what so ever

thats a 1200 kg r32 gtst time attack car doing sprints running brake booster still currently going to peddle box to be able to modulate braking more and will up grade the quality of pads

 

For direct comparison to yours a mate of mine whom I compete against has one/ if not the quickest all round  R32 GTR  that is still street rego full trim etc and 700hp odd and uses the same but with Project Mu club racer pads I think and more than does the job for a 3 lap sprint

 

Edited by bcozican

Mate that is EXACTLY the kind of info I was after.

Did you have to drill the hubs at all? How much work was it to install? Was it actually bolton? I dont care if i have to trim/bend the cover at the back, but I dont really want to drill the hubs out, which is the primary reason for not going with R34 brembo's.

No drilling of hubs at all. Just specify what you want and they will match it up.

All just bolt on im not the most accomplished in the world and took me about 45mins tops to do both

Yes backing plates will have to ve gone/ bent/ modded

All is good..... once you eventually get the stuff

Forza is great stuff.

It never arrives remotely on time (brakes direct are aware). Pads excellent too. That said, with CV I pretty much on the verge of refunding my purchase (in janurary) with some Raybestos pads.

Buy in bulk :P

  • 2 months later...

Cheers for the help guys.

I ordered the 378mm fronts and 355mm rears. I have a forged 3.2 coming to life soon in my 32R so dont want to be relying on the stock shitutomo's. For comparions sake, I put new oem rotors(4), braided brake lines, new lines and QFM pads, and encountered lots of brake fade in a small circuit.. Lost brakes pulling up from a mere 210k..

Lets hope I dont have to upgrade the BMC.

what calipers did you use for the 355mm rear from brakes direct?

I have 380mm fronts with the CR6380 and 350mm 370z rear with stock caliper. looking to upgrade rear to an alcon caliper in future for better balance.

pad choice was likely a contributor. put some proper pads and make sure you fluid is fresh and bled.

project mu H16

Carbotech XP10/12

performance friction 01/06 etc

either flush brakes every event or run Castrol SRF fluid and just bleed a bit to ensure no air.

 

and my rule is double the power, double the brakes. stock brakes on High powered cars doing consecutive laps is a bad idea, so good call on the big kit for the 3.2

Edited by burn4005
On 31/05/2020 at 8:49 PM, niZmO_Man said:

which QFM pad?

I'm not sure, It was apparently the top of the link from memory. Either way, not bagging the pads here. Just sharing my experience on the stock brakes. I was running brand new fluid too, bled(inc ABS).

 

On 02/06/2020 at 9:34 AM, burn4005 said:

what calipers did you use for the 355mm rear from brakes direct?

I have 380mm fronts with the CR6380 and 350mm 370z rear with stock caliper. looking to upgrade rear to an alcon caliper in future for better balance.

pad choice was likely a contributor. put some proper pads and make sure you fluid is fresh and bled.

project mu H16

Carbotech XP10/12

performance friction 01/06 etc

either flush brakes every event or run Castrol SRF fluid and just bleed a bit to ensure no air.

 

and my rule is double the power, double the brakes. stock brakes on High powered cars doing consecutive laps is a bad idea, so good call on the big kit for the 3.2

The fronts are CAR97 and rears are CAR98. What wheels are you running? 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/13/2020 at 4:34 PM, hattori hanzo said:

Ordered the Alcon BBK from Brakes Direct 3 weeks ago

 

Commited to 6-8 week lead time, I am judging them fiercely.

 

 

I got told 3-5 weeks back at the start of June so maybe i'll get mine before you get yours...

CAR97 and CAR36 calipers with 365/335 rotors however. Still want to run the 17's

  • 1 year later...

So I decided to put my brakes on, but the dogbones in the front dont clear the knuckles.. Wasnt happy. Did you guys that have 32R's have any issues with the dogbones not clearing? I spoke to Greg who was helpful enough, said to grind off the bit in the corner where it fouls(The dogbone itself). Wasnt too keen on doing that, so will send the dogbones back to them.

  • 1 month later...

Funny story, I had exactly the same experience as Predator1 when I bought my kit from Brakes Direct back in 2015.

Constant delays, dog bones didn't fit and supplied bolts were too short. Got the run around from Brakes Direct when trying to sort the issues out.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...