Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In other news, I'm looking at some new cats, the current 100 cell cats are of questionable quality and don't really do much, the Mrs has made note if the "stink" from the exhaust

I love the stink, but, as long as I keep her relatively happy with the noises and smells the car makes I'm pretty much free to "mod away"

Plus if I was ever pulled over and sent to a emissions test I'm not confident it would end well

So.....

I'm looking at some 400 cel euro 5 type (the 2002 vx is euro 3) from Racecraft which are currently at $450 

vtz3_1800x1800.thumb.jpg.3c6faae6bfd73f8809133d1f593a206f.jpg

This is about half the cost of a quote from an exhaust shop that quoted me for 200 cell, which really wouldn't be much better than my current 100 cell

I was able to buy some 5in body 400 cell cats (x2) which had 3in pipe either side. I can confirm they work and may be cheaper, I want to say they were just under $200 each.

Venom Exhaust Weld in high Flow stainless 3" 76mm 400 cell Cat Catalytic Converter (mrcperformance.com.au)

They do remove smell, because I have 'cat delete pipes' that can be swapped in with vbands.

These delete pipes sit in a box, because.. they do not seem to impact performance at all, and fix the smell, and .. well, the cats make the car sound better lol.

13 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I was able to buy some 5in body 400 cell cats (x2) which had 3in pipe either side. I can confirm they work and may be cheaper, I want to say they were just under $200 each.

Venom Exhaust Weld in high Flow stainless 3" 76mm 400 cell Cat Catalytic Converter (mrcperformance.com.au)

They do remove smell, because I have 'cat delete pipes' that can be swapped in with vbands.

These delete pipes sit in a box, because.. they do not seem to impact performance at all, and fix the smell, and .. well, the cats make the car sound better lol.

 

Won't pass an emissions test though. Used to have one on my car when it was a street car, but it failed the Euro 3 standards even on E85. Was going to buy a certified Euro 4 cat to replace it but ended up taking the car off the road instead.

  • Like 1
9 minutes ago, Unzipped Composites said:

 

Won't pass an emissions test though. Used to have one on my car when it was a street car, but it failed the Euro 3 standards even on E85. Was going to buy a certified Euro 4 cat to replace it but ended up taking the car off the road instead.

Mine did... for the same year/motor combination that OP has 😛 through the IM240 in NSW which is far and beyond more stringent than the 5 gas test WA does.

The kicker for me was it was the only one I could find that was a 3in 400 cell cat, and its worth mentioning I have two of them, one in each bank, as I have a 2x 3in exhaust into a 3.5in.

... and they are also behind 100 cell cats, which are further up the bank!


Just sayin they do work for the make/model that this thread is relevant for, but I probably would have paid the extra for the racecraft ones, but trying to get information on them other than "Cell" and "Euro" spec was impossible at the time.

1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

Mine did... for the same year/motor combination that OP has 😛 through the IM240 in NSW which is far and beyond more stringent than the 5 gas test WA does.

The kicker for me was it was the only one I could find that was a 3in 400 cell cat, and its worth mentioning I have two of them, one in each bank, as I have a 2x 3in exhaust into a 3.5in.

... and they are also behind 100 cell cats, which are further up the bank!


Just sayin they do work for the make/model that this thread is relevant for, but I probably would have paid the extra for the racecraft ones, but trying to get information on them other than "Cell" and "Euro" spec was impossible at the time.

 

Fair enough, I stand corrected!

I'll admit, I had never noticed any smells and when on 98 it would take a good few months of driving without washing before any soot developed on the rear bar, so they obviously did something. I had always been content with it until it failed the emissions test, which as you say is only a 5 gas test. My package just needed a different combination I guess.

It is interesting how the tests are run, my car was well worse on idle instead of driving around, given the WA test is an idle test mileage may vary. My stupid V8 cam was a huge detriment though. (unburned fuel is bad for emissions...)

I would have gone ceramic if I had've seen them prior though, because its probably better than steel ones, otherwise why would every OEM use ceramics instead of steel ones. But now that I'm passed I'm happy they're steel, so who knows, worked out in the end.

Either one will remove the smell though!

  • Like 1
29 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

It is interesting how the tests are run, my car was well worse on idle instead of driving around, given the WA test is an idle test mileage may vary. My stupid V8 cam was a huge detriment though. (unburned fuel is bad for emissions...)

I would have gone ceramic if I had've seen them prior though, because its probably better than steel ones, otherwise why would every OEM use ceramics instead of steel ones. But now that I'm passed I'm happy they're steel, so who knows, worked out in the end.

Either one will remove the smell though!

How did you find the 400 cell in relation to the tune, did it richen it up by much?

1 minute ago, mlr said:

How did you find the 400 cell in relation to the tune, did it richen it up by much?

This is how I figure it made no difference, closing the varex for example richens up the AFR significantly (12.9 to 11.0) as revs climb for obvious reasons, and about half a point at idle actually. (14.7 to like 14.3ish).

Swapping the cats (plural, I have two) with 2x 3in straight pipes resulted in an 0.0 AFR change at the same road with same conditions, I made a day of it specifically testing this exact thing. And the cats fit better. I wish I had flex joins in my exhaust, vbands are great but... there is 0 compliance with them.

  • Thanks 1

After a nice ride on the Harley this weekend, I removed the lowered rear shocks

I went from scrapping pegs to scrapping the exhaust, which is not ideal when laying this fat old girl over in a tight corner, the exhaust turns into a solid pivot point

I actually felt the rear tyre lift and lose grip

The OEM rear shocks are back on, not the best performer, but at least I'm back to scrapping pegs and not pivot points

20210615_084250.thumb.jpg.d280b8783f63d0627b7c839a59192cd1.jpg

In other news, after no email reply from Racecraft, and as they don't have any phone numbers because phones are apparently to hard to answer (well that is what their website says), I got a local exhaust shop to fit the cats.

The fuel/exhaust smell is now gone, which is nice

The ended up costing $650 installed, I'm happy with that as it saved the whole "I hope they fit" senario you go thru when ordering "bolt on" parts

It also gave me the opportunity to inspect the undercarriage and "stuff" when it was up on the hoist, doing that on jack stands is a PITA, after inspecting and shaking the bejubus out of all the arms, linkages and other bits and peices everything was hunky dory, sweet.

  • Like 1

Just purchased a bonnet scoop #becausemadbogan

I just need to find a clean bonnet to hack up

I'll fit it up and get a local joint, Fineline, to respray/color match the bonnet

VT-VX-VK-RETRO-STYLE-SCOOP.-751x1024.jpg

  • Haha 1

Water squirter relocation stuff is ebay'd

I need to hit bunnings tomorrow for some cutting wheels for my little grinder, I will be just removing the bonnet material and leaving the frame untouched

Then tape tape and chop chop

I actually also did some wool tuft testing, well, I used survey marking tape, anyways, it seems the "advertised" high pressure zone at the base windscreen isn't really a high pressure zone, the tape pretty much flowed up the windscreen, it wasn't smooth, but it didn't push down into the lower part of the screen, which to me would indicate that it should, "in theory" vent heat when moving

My initial hopes were to remove some heat when the car is sitting stuck in traffic, it actually "may" vent some heat when moving, maybe...meh

This isn't because the car is overheating or any real reason other than another "just because" mod, plus I get to use my grinder

s-l140.jpg.b1fbd6b55b7178f6aa9142a090b3af56.jpgs-l140-1.jpg.2ab5a8e41a8b76f329daf7940b63325c.jpg

13 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

How's that burn out video coming along? Lol

Give me a break, the car has sticky street tyres, 255 RS4's, and only 950nm of torque at 2500rpm

I'm not sure if that's enough powahs to turn them

  • Haha 1
21 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Sounds like it's just enough to pull a Mah de Grass float.

Unfortunately I will not be able to tow your float as I have removed the tow bar

I appreciate the offer but sadly I don't tow that way, not that there is anything wrong with it, it is 2021

Anyways........

In other news, me the Mrs are taking the bogan mobile into the city to pick up the eldest after a work function

The plan is to head from Holsworthy to the city, via Chronulla, then home from the city via Manly for Icecream Waffles

Pity about the weather but meh

Good times anyway

  • 2 weeks later...

Consumers will consume 

Scangauge 2

Handy little thing

I was wondering about charged intake temps and trans temps, seems like this does it all, and more

https://www.scangauge.com.au/scangauge-2-australian-version

1943210248__1.thumb.jpeg.d1e669e15807ef96d38a1ca2e05f7990.jpeg

What information do you need that you don't currently have?

ODBII can be done via a phone app in a far easier way, provided the LS ECU actually has transmission temperature sensors/readings that are transmissable that way. (I know IAT is)

I also know your IAT reading will be inaccurate.
I also know it will be messing with your tune/AFR as a result of it.

Its cool like that, assuming you have the stock sensor now that you have boost

  • Like 2
5 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

What information do you need that you don't currently have?

ODBII can be done via a phone app in a far easier way, provided the LS ECU actually has transmission temperature sensors/readings that are transmissable that way. (I know IAT is)

I also know your IAT reading will be inaccurate.
I also know it will be messing with your tune/AFR as a result of it.

Its cool like that, assuming you have the stock sensor now that you have boost

It's just a consumer thing

I shyed away from the Bluetooth OBD2 as I've heard a few issues with accuracy and also playing silly buggers with slush box converters locking up, meh, electrical black magic stuff

Plus I use my phone with MAPS alot

So, plug in

Why, I'm curious as to what  my:

Trans temp, the 4l60e has a temp sensor in it, it has a cooler on it but I will be more confident when I know the actual data

IAT, it has some aftermarket thingie that reads charge air temps post the water to air intercooler, I'm curious how it reacts to things like traffic, cruising, or rolling against Ferrari's.........JK........but seriously 

I'm planning to run AIT, Trans temp, volts and another thing that takes my fancy on a day to day basis for shits and giggles

In the end it's only a little thing that doesn't take up much space, I'm thinking above the rear view, the VX headlining and A pillar lends itself well to running a small cable from the roof line to under the dash

I totally agree, I think an OBD display is a good thing to keep an eye on "stuff". I run an informeter in the fuga, to the left of the factory screen

fuga-informeter.jpg

I run one in the Titan too, and in that case I added a trans temp sensor in the line to the oil cooler to understand how that is going when towing on hot days in addition to the built in data.

In the stagea I run a gaugeART to the Link, it fun to watch the whoosh appear.

41-001_1024x768-400x300.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...