Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New settings were much better, I sent some street tyre (255/40 17 RS4's) setting 6 (max slip 65%) logs to Jacek to have a look and see how it's going

New 0-100 kph is 4.096 seconds :), last settings were 5.08, the one before that was 5.084, before the RaceTCS there was no way of getting it that low

Definitely going in the right direction 

Before the RaceTCS I needed to be real gentle and pedal, alot, to not just bag it up, in first gear with any "real" throttle (over 25%) it would just spin, and 2nd under power was just a smoke show, now, I just mash the load pedal and the car launches

You can hear it cutting cylinders, the exhaust note changes, but it just leaps forward and pulls like a train16908805229067198022876985454911.thumb.jpg.4c83371ad894c0bc8cf213462eb01b6f.jpg

Hopefully there is a little more black magic that Jacek can do, a 3.??? would be insane on the street tyres, but, I'm as happy as a p ig in sh it now anyway

Once this next lot of changes come in, if their are any, because a 0-100kph in 4.0 seconds is really good IMO, then on with the drag radials and go for a 60' under my best of 1.6

My last 60' was a 1.6 with a 11.2 at 124mph, a 1.5 60' gets me real close to that 10.???

great-success-yes.gif.1cd98f79a7f595fd7dde9348c5b3a463.gif

16908805787864916271093288887633.jpg

  • Like 5
2 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

4 seconds 0-100kmh is serious business! I don't think anyone would see that coming standing at the lights next to you :D

My main concern is how it effects my 60' at WSID :27_sunglasses:

But yeah.....:10_wink:

I know this isn't the use case, but it helps a great deal coming out of corners when you have a bit of lock and a bit of power at the same time. It's kinda surreal to be coming out of a 30kmh (signed) bend in 1st and just plant it. or feed it in aggressively and not end up on an enbankment on your roof. Just gives a lot of confidence.
 

13 hours ago, The Bogan said:

My main concern is how it effects my 60' at WSID :27_sunglasses:

But yeah.....:10_wink:

Street Tyres just don't hook up that well, even supercars have troubles getting under the 4s barrier in the real world. You shouldn't 'need' TC for drag racing though, that is when tyres should be doing the work they're made to do!

  • Like 2

Latest configurator setting 6 got me a 3.96 0-100 kph

Slip settings were the same as the last, 65%, the only change were to the kD (D value for pid control), the new were 5.00, the old were 3.00, yeah, I have no idea of what that actually means, LOL, but, it has something to do with my car having quote: "alot of drive train inertia and when it starts to slip it takes awhile before it stops, more sensitive kD should act as a prediction of what is going to happen"......(black magic stuff)

He believes the most we can shave may be 0.1-0.2 seconds off the flat 4.0

I've sent the logs off again for Jacek to look at

I was actually happy with the flat 4.00, but a 3.96 is even better

Sort of like the difference between a 11.000, and a 10.999 at the drags, it is then either a 11 second car or a 10 second car, it's now a 3 second 0-100 car... . sort of....yeap :34_rolling_eyes:.......I'm an idiot rounding down:224_monkey:

Winner winner chicken dinner 

  • Like 3

Logs were reviewed and Jacek said that that is as good as it will get on the street tyres 

The only change he recommended was playing with the max slip fuel cut for when the drag radials are on, start at 70% and see how that effects the 60", then test and adjust up from there

It is currently at 85% on setting 6, which works great for the street tyres and a awesome 0-100 in the old bus

15 logs sent and 8 configurator changes sent 

So now the street tyre settings are sorted, from cold wet icey roads, to kill mode in the dry, time to hit the drag radials 

The plan is to move setting 2 into setting 1, and follow them all down until setting 6 is moved to setting 5, setting 6 will then be basically the same as setting 5, but with less max slip fuel cut % for the drag radials at the strip

As for spinning wheels on drag radials, last time out they spun fairly hard and I needed to pedal a bit, but, my tyre pressures were too high, I'll drop the tyre pressure down to about 15 psi and see if they hook without the traction control on, look at a log and see how much it is spinning, I'll then try with traction control on, and compare some logs

Hopefully a Wednesday night soon I'll hit WSID and see how it goes

  • Like 3

Drove to Goulburn to visit my daughter.......and her boys nice new performance blue i30 N manual hatch, he had only put 100km on it so far and was itching to drive it some more, so we took that into Canberra for lunch

The i30N hatch is a fun little car, really comfortable, good build quality and sounds great

If your looking for something new and fun I think it a great value little hot hatch to definitely look at

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Hahha lol.

 

V8 or nothing.

The V8 is fun, although it did use almost 3/4 of tank of fuel on the drive to Goulburn and back

So not really good for a daily for driving to and from work or shop runs

He'll, that fuel economy is rubbish for pretty much anyone driving to and from work, luckily the VX really only comes out for weekend cruises and the occasional squirt for LOLS

My Harley is my daily hack, but I'm in a bit of a conundrum at the moment, the arthritis in my neck is pretty bad, and it ain't going to improve, to the point of probably really being a safety issue riding the bike as I cannot really turn my head much to check traffic properly, and on a bike that is pretty important if you don't want to end up as a smear on Sydney roads,

I reckon I've got a year at max before my neck says "no turn for you"

I'm thinking of selling the Harley and buying a car more suitable as a weekday runabout 

I'm getting the little auto Yaris hatch (1.5 big block) back from my daughter soon when her new car finally arrives, which is currently on a very slow boat from South Korea, but, should arrive this month, I'm going to see if I can deal with a Yaris for a while as a daily, then maybe flip the Yaris and bike and grab some new and fancy smaller car for a daily

Whatever it is, it does need to be "somewhat" sporty

I think a little i30N would tick all the boxes, it goes really well, has all the safety mod cons and stuff, it also makes all the cool noises pretty much as is

I also retire at 60 in 1 year, 9 months, 2 weeks and 1 day (not that I'm counting), so I'm looking for something that will take me, and everyone around me, safely into my retirement years as I only really have another 10 or so years before I call it quits and bin my licence for the safety of all concerned 

I don't want to be one of those old dudes that refuse to accept reality and keep on driving past their use by date

I'll then be one of those grumpy old bastards in the passenger seat or on public transport, and as I'm apparently already grumpy, and occasionally a bastard (talk to any of my family or work colleagues), I reckon I got this covered

On a side note, I just paid for my rego, it cost $0.00, there are at least some benefits of getting older and broken

  • Like 4
9 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Nek minnit, Mark is selling the SS for an N spec Hyundai...

Nope, I've decided the SS will remain registered in the stable until my licence is kaput

I'm getting old and broken, not dead

8 hours ago, The Bogan said:

Whatever it is, it does need to be "somewhat" sporty

I think a little i30N would tick all the boxes, it goes really well, has all the safety mod cons and stuff, it also makes all the cool noises pretty much as is

I think they did pretty well with the i30n Fastback. Looks a bit nicer than the hatchback. It has a bit of that Mercedes coupe swoop to it.

9cf5d44c-2019-hyundai-i30_fastback_n_02.thumb.jpg.e7c42cb235d527a24cc52d9f980dd9d6.jpg

  • Like 1

Mark, as you're keeping the big SS monster, which you can use for longer trips etc, and you're wanting something with the ModCons, and some sporty zip, have you considered an EV?

Depending on how many KMs you do a year, from now to the 70 year old Mark, it may work out cheaper to go a new EV.

I presently drive the Kona EV, and now in my mid 30s, I prefer driving it in traffic over any car I have access to. To the point, unless I want to go for a spirited drive, I'd rather drive it over even the missus Liberty GT-B, which is a car I quite enjoy.

It handles pretty nicely (Especially for a small SUV style car). I guess have a really low center of gravity really helps it.
On the rare occasion I actually press the brake pedal, I nearly headbutt the front window. But in general, I use regen braking nearly everywhere.
But you want to go quick, just push the quiet pedal, and it gets up and zips off and away!

Has all the mod cons of the AC, the cruise, the safety bells and whistles (Some of which I've personally switched off, but they might be good to keep a soon to be 70 year old safe ;) )

Oh, also runs a 500KM range, in winter as I'm smashing both heater and AC, and the fan pretty hard, my range drops to about 400 usable KMs.
But in summer, I'm legit getting 500KM range, and that is using AC too. Using the regen braking, and smooth (not slow, just smooth) acceleration really helps.

Oh, and at current electricity prices, it's under $3/100km to put electricity in it. If your SS is anything like my VT SS was, you're using around 18L/100km easily around town... At $2/L, the SS would be costing about $36 / 100KM to run... So the EV really does save it.
But that being said, you need to spend a bit more to buy it up front due to the batteries (Sort of pre-paying for fuel). Hence my comment on depending how many KMs you do.

But realistically, you could drive from Sydney to Goulburn, shove it on the slow charger when you get down there (Normal power point) for 5 hours, and get back to Sydney again and still have 50KM left over. Stop off at a fast charger (I'm expecting Goulburn has one by now) for lunch, and you'd be fully charged and back on the road by the time lunch finishes, so you'd be back in sydney with 200KM of range still available. Park it back in your garage (Or just outside it) on the charger overnight, come back out and you're good to go.

Want more freedom than that for a trip down randomly, well, you've still got the dinosaur eating V8 tucked away :)

Note: It may not fit your situation depending how enjoyable you find it to drive, or the number of KMs you do a day, or even how often you want to take the daily on long trips vs the commodore when you hit retirement, but I find being able to sit side by side with most of the "fast kids" in their P Plate cars pretty funny, especially since you don't need to shift gears or worry about the launch, so they actually get pissed off when the EV goes past them :P
 

Depending on the KMs you do daily, and how many you expect to keep doing daily running around in retirement, a decent EV would be a good daily driver, especially once you hit retirement. (DVA Gold gets you a good discount on electricity doesn't it?)

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, MBS206 said:

Mark, as you're keeping the big SS monster, which you can use for longer trips etc, and you're wanting something with the ModCons, and some sporty zip, have you considered an EV?

Depending on how many KMs you do a year, from now to the 70 year old Mark, it may work out cheaper to go a new EV.

I presently drive the Kona EV, and now in my mid 30s, I prefer driving it in traffic over any car I have access to. To the point, unless I want to go for a spirited drive, I'd rather drive it over even the missus Liberty GT-B, which is a car I quite enjoy.

It handles pretty nicely (Especially for a small SUV style car). I guess have a really low center of gravity really helps it.
On the rare occasion I actually press the brake pedal, I nearly headbutt the front window. But in general, I use regen braking nearly everywhere.
But you want to go quick, just push the quiet pedal, and it gets up and zips off and away!

Has all the mod cons of the AC, the cruise, the safety bells and whistles (Some of which I've personally switched off, but they might be good to keep a soon to be 70 year old safe ;) )

Oh, also runs a 500KM range, in winter as I'm smashing both heater and AC, and the fan pretty hard, my range drops to about 400 usable KMs.
But in summer, I'm legit getting 500KM range, and that is using AC too. Using the regen braking, and smooth (not slow, just smooth) acceleration really helps.

Oh, and at current electricity prices, it's under $3/100km to put electricity in it. If your SS is anything like my VT SS was, you're using around 18L/100km easily around town... At $2/L, the SS would be costing about $36 / 100KM to run... So the EV really does save it.
But that being said, you need to spend a bit more to buy it up front due to the batteries (Sort of pre-paying for fuel). Hence my comment on depending how many KMs you do.

But realistically, you could drive from Sydney to Goulburn, shove it on the slow charger when you get down there (Normal power point) for 5 hours, and get back to Sydney again and still have 50KM left over. Stop off at a fast charger (I'm expecting Goulburn has one by now) for lunch, and you'd be fully charged and back on the road by the time lunch finishes, so you'd be back in sydney with 200KM of range still available. Park it back in your garage (Or just outside it) on the charger overnight, come back out and you're good to go.

Want more freedom than that for a trip down randomly, well, you've still got the dinosaur eating V8 tucked away :)

Note: It may not fit your situation depending how enjoyable you find it to drive, or the number of KMs you do a day, or even how often you want to take the daily on long trips vs the commodore when you hit retirement, but I find being able to sit side by side with most of the "fast kids" in their P Plate cars pretty funny, especially since you don't need to shift gears or worry about the launch, so they actually get pissed off when the EV goes past them :P
 

Depending on the KMs you do daily, and how many you expect to keep doing daily running around in retirement, a decent EV would be a good daily driver, especially once you hit retirement. (DVA Gold gets you a good discount on electricity doesn't it?)

I cannot see myself in a EV

Call me old fashion but I need something that makes car noises

Car noises make me smile

 

 

  • Like 2
36 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

I cannot see myself in a EV

Call me old fashion but I need something that makes car noises

Car noises make me smile

 

 

Most of them have a system you can turn on to play noise through the speakers for you....

 

Funnily enough, petrol things like BMW do this from the factory too in "sports mode". People think the exhaust gets louder... But it doesn't... Ha ha ha

15 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Most of them have a system you can turn on to play noise through the speakers for you....

 

Funnily enough, petrol things like BMW do this from the factory too in "sports mode". People think the exhaust gets louder... But it doesn't... Ha ha ha

My 86 had a "sound tube", it was removed when the turbo intake went on

Real car noises FTW

  • Haha 1
On 06/08/2023 at 8:06 AM, soviet_merlin said:

I think they did pretty well with the i30n Fastback. Looks a bit nicer than the hatchback. It has a bit of that Mercedes coupe swoop to it.

9cf5d44c-2019-hyundai-i30_fastback_n_02.thumb.jpg.e7c42cb235d527a24cc52d9f980dd9d6.jpg

It looks like it's squatting to take a shit.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...