MLR's Bogan cruise ship

[Kinkstaah]

Thank you for the update! Good to know the product is... two sheets of semi mouldable stuff and you've just ziptied it around the runners themselves. Maybe this is worth a try after all. Did you just wing it with regards to punching the holes and hope they lined up where the runners were? How many ties did you use? (i.e how many should I buy)

Any change on how cool your fans are inside the car? I.e the radiant heat drop from the bay translates into less 50C furnace air coming through the vents when set to "cool, outside air"

Good job with the under bonnet stuff! Did you put any of the stage1 stuff to stop vibrations? I think that's the major contributor tbh. But I don't doubt your car will sound far more uh, at home than mine.

[CEF33Y]

We use a similar flexible heatshield product at work.

As you are trying to keep the heat in the manifolds, shouldn't the shiny side be facing the manifold?

[Kinkstaah]

It specifically says to face the "cloth" side to the manifold.. I can only assume it is more resistant to heat..

I have ordered some myself so I'm sure I'll be angry and annoyed at the whole procedure when it arrives 😛

[GTSBoy]

Yeah, for a wrap type shield the shiny side would just be too thin a foil. It would likely oxidise and burn away if put into hard contact with red hot pipes. The glass/mineral fibre side will be more able to take the temperature. The shiny side facing out would be just to reduce the emissivity of the surface so it doesn't radiate as much heat to nearby surfaces.

It's all a long way from being ideal, but in some circumstances, you take what you can get. There's not always room for shiny surfaces both sides, air gaps and so on.

[CEF33Y]

Ahh, that makes sense

[The Bogan]

2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Thank you for the update! Good to know the product is... two sheets of semi mouldable stuff ......CANVAS TYPE OF FIBREGLASS MATERIAL........and you've just ziptied it around the runners themselves. ......YEAP, AND I JOINED A FEW ZIPS AND WENT AROUND BOTH PRIMARY COLLECTORS..... Maybe this is worth a try after all. Did you just wing it with regards to punching the holes and hope they lined up where the runners were? ........... .I STARTED ON THE FRONT PRIMARY, I WRAPPED IT AROUND SO IT WAS ONLY JUST FULLY ENCIRCLED WHILST HAVING IT UNDER THE PLUG LEAD, PUNCHED A ZIP THROUGH AND TIGHTENED IT UP, ONCE THE FIRST ONE WAS DONE, IT WAS TYPICAL FOR THE OTHERS.TUCK UNDER, FORM IT UP TO SUIT, POKE SOME HOLES, THEN PULL IT BACK TO GET ACCESS TO FIT, THEN PUSH IT UP HARD AND ZIP IT UP.............many ties did you use? I GOT A BAG OF 20 FOR $10 ON EBAY, THAT CAME WITH 30 TIES : )....., AND USED MOST OF THEM, I DID LOOP SOME AROUND THE ZIPS ON THE PRIMARY AND OVER THE TABS ON THE VALVE COVER AND DIP STICK TUBE TO INITIALLY HOLD IT IN PLACE, I ALSO WASTED QUITE A FEW(i.e how many should I buy)

Any change on how cool your fans are inside the car? .........MY INTERIOR VENTS ON THE SS HAVE NEVER BEEN AN ISSUE, BUT, WITH MY OLD 33, THE RUBBER SEAL ON THE PLASTIC THING ON THE VENTS WAS MISSING AND THE UNDERBONNET HOT AIR WENT STRAIGHT INTO THE VENT, IT IS A REAR HIGH PRESSURE ZONE THERE, ONCE I REPLACED THAT THE VENTS WERE FINE........I.e the radiant heat drop from the bay translates into less 50C furnace air coming through the vents when set to "cool, outside air"......FOR ME, COOL OUTSIDE AIR IS COOL OUTSIDE AIR

Good job with the under bonnet stuff! Did you put any of the stage1 stuff to stop vibrations?......NAH, THEY SAID THAT'S ALL I REALLY NEED.... I think that's the major contributor tbh. But I don't doubt your car will sound far more uh, at home than mine. .......YEAP, SINCE I REPLACED THE REAR PACEMAKER MUFFLER THE CAR IS A NICE PLACE TO BE, WINDOWS UP THERE IS NO DRONE WHEN CRUISING, AND COOL V8 NOISES PERMEATE INTO THE CABIN WHEN YOU HIT THE LOUD PEDAL......IDLE SOUNDS ALL LUMPYISH AND GOOD

WINDOWS DOWN, AND IT IS JUST A BIT LOUDER WHEN CRUISING, BUT IT DOES GET ALL GROOVY LOUD AND V8 NOISY IN THE CABIN WHEN ON IT.......... 

I should stop yelling

[Kinkstaah]

So.... just putting the clamp around the runner not sufficient to hold it in place? Put the second ones there so they don't slide down pretty much?

[Ben C34]

You need to weld onto the headers threaded bosses and screw into that with a small bolt with large head through the wrap.

Then you may as well make a hard heat shield that bolts on.

[The Bogan]

44 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

So.... just putting the clamp around the runner not sufficient to hold it in place? Put the second ones there so they don't slide down pretty much?

I put them on to initially hold it in place, now that it has cured I might take them off.

In truth the extra ties don't really stand out anyway.

Welding stuff, yeah nah, the whole point of this was to get a noticeable result as easily as possible.

If I was going to do anymore than what I have done I would pull the headers out, get them coated and then, most likely use the same stuff again, or wrap them, but that ain't happening, LOL.

 

[Kinkstaah]

I liked that armor stuff! But yeah there's plenty of options when they arent on the car... removing manifolds is a 10 hour job or some ridiculous shit.

I.e, if it's not on fire its probably ok.

BTW you got the blanket from ebay? EMA had it in stock but it turns out they didn't.

[The Bogan]

15 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I liked that armor stuff! But yeah there's plenty of options when they arent on the car... removing manifolds is a 10 hour job or some ridiculous shit.

I.e, if it's not on fire its probably ok.

BTW you got the blanket from ebay? EMA had it in stock but it turns out they didn't.

Yeah mate

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/254058558038

Ties

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/113924313761

I reckon you can get it heaps cheaper but I am a impatient consumer and typically just hit "buy now" when I find something I like

[The Bogan]

Catch can is working well, the intake tract is oil free, there was actually fark all oil in the can though, I'm sure the reason for this is I'm not thrashing it enough

Talking about thrashing, I finally put the last coat of paint on my 15 x 7 chasers, started with alot of prep and 2 coats of zinc gal, then satin black on the back side, front is silver gal......yeap.......left over paint from building a car port

Pity every local supplier of MT Street S/S 235/ 60 16 are out of stock till February 21, still, plenty of time for this awesome paint job to cure......

[The Bogan]

After a casual drive to get some fuel I got the Ebay infra-red temp gauge out

Car was idling away for about 3 minutes after the drive

With some quick point and shoot.......

There is a difference of between 30-35 ° at the header

i.e. when the header right at the flange is around 130°, 25mm away where the stuff is hard against the header it is 95-100°

My trans cooler was 45° on the cold side and 65° on the hot side

Front of head was at 90°

Coolant was 65°

Power steering reservoir was way up at 85° (fark 🤯), next mod might be a real PS cooler

Ebay, here I come

[The Bogan]

Thermal stuff is holding up really well

In other news: I tried a rear muffler delete on my pacemaker twin 2.5" a while ago, whilst is sounded good the drone at 100 kph was too much to live with so the rear box went back on

So, a couple of months later, I'm sitting out the front of an exhaust shop waiting for my turn

The 2 center mufflers are getting cut out and some small resonators are going in

I have heard this setup on a mates LS VT and it worked well, louder than mine, but not canary yellow loud..........maybe.......

In other other news: I'm waiting on a quote to get my 4l60e built, I'm giving the car a fairly hard time and the old 4l60e gearbox is the weakest link, this should help stopping it becoming a box full of neutrals when it is shifting at WOT on drag radials

 

[Kinkstaah]

I ended up going off the massive deep end in regards to heat shielding but its good to know the blanket is holding up. Thermo tec usually make pretty good stuff supposedly.

Keep the old exhaust if you can, if worried about canaries. Use your many years of JDM experience to your advantage 😛

[The Bogan]

57 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I ended up going off the massive deep end in regards to heat shielding but its good to know the blanket is holding up. Thermo tec usually make pretty good stuff supposedly.

Keep the old exhaust if you can, if worried about canaries. Use your many years of JDM experience to your advantage 😛

Whatcha do IRT the "deep end"? Tell me tell me tell me

As for keeping the old mufflers, yeah nah, there in the bin already 

As for the resonators, the old guy said he could fit them, but suggested that I really dont need them to kill drone, he said my rear muffler would be adequate, he said if I wanted them I could come back later and he would chuck them in

He was right, coming home on the M5 sitting on 100kph with the windows up you couldn't really tell much of a difference between now and before with the full exhaust 

BUT, when you mash the loud pedal to the firewall, well, that is a totally different story, no drone, just loud V8 noises.

My take is, it sounds really deep and rumbling, but legal (ish) when I'm gentle on the throttle, so as long as I'm exercising my eyeball muscles I should be golden 

Hard free reving is all growls, pops and bangs, LOL, so much so that when I reved the bejesus out of it, it made me giggle and reminded me of days gone by of old v8's reving in the pits 

Meh, my years of experience with JDM and basically ever other car and motorbike that I've played with over the last 40 years is you are going to pay if you want to play

But running it at stock height with stock wheels, plus I tend to not drive like a idiot, and I'm a old white guy, should help as well to not draw heat

[Kinkstaah]

21 hours ago, mlr said:

Whatcha do IRT the "deep end"? Tell me tell me tell me

I just ended up spending a big amount of $ on the header armor indicated here

I also got a good amount of the stuff they sell that goes around (but not completely) the exhausts, which I'll run between the top of the pipe and the bottom of the car, if that makes sense. I got enough of that material to do the entire exhaust on a nearly 5 meter long car with 2 exhausts.

All in all about $650 of material, and yeah headers have to come off to install it. Also looking into having an airbox made, and sussing out potential fan replacements from the trusty AU fans. So all thats on the cards... at 'some' time in the future.
 

21 hours ago, mlr said:

BUT, when you mash the loud pedal to the firewall, well, that is a totally different story, no drone, just loud V8 noises.

This is actually the biggest difference I noticed with my sound deadening adventure. The delta between loud pedal and not on loud pedal is much more pronounced. When you get on to it, you really really get on to it, and yeah not gonna lie it's pretty great and makes hair grow on your chest, and face, and other body parts near immediately.

[The Bogan]

Talking about rolling on stock rims, I went looking for tyres that are gripper than the 245/45 17 RE003's that are on it now

Dooh

Got some Hankook RS4's

Front 8.5 x 17 +38 235/45 17

Rear 9.5 x 17 + 46 255/40 17

Meh

I am the bogan king

 

[The Bogan]

The car was a dream over the last week taking me and Jackie down the coast, it never missed a beat and the fuel economy was surprisingly good

In other Bogan news

My exhaust part three happens on 01 Feb, I'm getting Sureflo at Ingleburn to thow on a catback  twin 2.5" to single 3.5" exhaust, exhaust will have a little 3.5" straight through muffler in the middle and a big 3.5" resonator at the rear, doing it purely because my current twin exhaust routes one of the rear pipes behind my diff limiting access to the diffs drain and fill plugs, and of course, for the sake of chasing a certain exhaust sound

At high RPM the twin exhaust sounds a little like thongs flapping, meh.....I'm a consumer

In more exciting, bogan enduced, and expensive consumer news, all my lead footed and kicking it down at every opportunity, has lead to a slightly slipping slush box, high RPM shifts have started to get a little weird, so, before the 4 speed turns into a box full of neutrals, or gives itself a nice bay window.......the car is going in for a "performance" 4L60e build on 25 Jan, the build is rated to 600 fly, mine is only about 430 fly, so there is a nice big fudge factor in it for reliability, hopefully the gearbox doesn't die before then...😜

[Kinkstaah]

Are you sure you don't want to go manual? If you do, I have a fresh T56 with 6 neutrals, all ready to go after my track day today!