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MLR's Bogan cruise ship


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12 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

It reminds me of something but can’t quite put my finger on it

how does it “ wrap” around? Is it a fitted thing or like a blanket ? 

Like a blanket, it has some "clips" sewn onto the corners, you just need some stainless zip ties to secure it, not sure if the "kit" comes with the zip ties or some form of strap

I'll post up some picks when it arrives

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8 hours ago, mlr said:

Like a blanket, it has some "clips" sewn onto the corners, you just need some stainless zip ties to secure it, not sure if the "kit" comes with the zip ties or some form of strap

I'll post up some picks when it arrives

Please do, I've been examining this thing, and the only picture is for a V8 that is *not* the LS1 manifold. (it's from earlier Chev V8s')

I am wondering how this thing would go with the coil pack leads.
image.thumb.png.aac7f25350d569471e743616e123938c.png

It doesn't look like it'd fit over (over the coilpacks?? across the top of the plug leads?) and has no provisions for spark plug leads themselves.

Please post an update as I have the same item sitting in my cart at EMA 😛
 

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12 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Please do, I've been examining this thing, and the only picture is for a V8 that is *not* the LS1 manifold. (it's from earlier Chev V8s')

I am wondering how this thing would go with the coil pack leads.
image.thumb.png.aac7f25350d569471e743616e123938c.png

It doesn't look like it'd fit over (over the coilpacks?? across the top of the plug leads?) and has no provisions for spark plug leads themselves.

Please post an update as I have the same item sitting in my cart at EMA 😛
 

I'm kinda hoping that it l9ng enough across the top to push some down under the plugs and leads

Well that is what it looks like in my head, I'm hoping to not "cut to fit", but that is always an option

Just like putting it in the bin after getting the shits with it is always an option

I am quietly confident that is won't come to the "bin option" though

I did try to fab up some of that aluminium sheet stuff(pictured), but that did go in the bin, with the headers installed it was a right PITA to form it up, and the best I could do with the headers fitted looked like a dogs breakfasr, but, if the headers were off, the aluminium sheet stuff would be my No.1 choice, even over wrap

EHS_Parent.webp

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Also:

Why are you doing it?

Does your LS:

1) Overheat if you turn the AC on, on a hot day? (stay away from a UDP if it doesn't)
2) Saturate your engine bay with so much heat that putting the fans on "fresh air" results in like 50+C air being thumped into the cabin?
3) Anything else?
 

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41 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Also:

Why are you doing it?

Does your LS:

1) Overheat if you turn the AC on, on a hot day? (stay away from a UDP if it doesn't)
2) Saturate your engine bay with so much heat that putting the fans on "fresh air" results in like 50+C air being thumped into the cabin?
3) Anything else?
 

Nope, purely from boredom and best practice 

OEM has a heat sheild, this doesn't, I've typically had some form of thermal protection on any and all modified exhaust manifolds to quell radiant heat

My next mod, for no other reason than I think it is best practice, will be to create some form of ducting from my front bar to the radiator, currently air can just drop down under the radiator.

As I've added a trans cooler to the stack I feel it would be a worthwhile project 

20201214_152040.thumb.jpg.8eefd46f34de14e8ec2e21dfe918254f.jpg

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31 minutes ago, mlr said:

some form of ducting

From recent experience, the very best stuff for this is signboard. It's the stuff they use for real estate signs and the like. Thin sheetmetal each side of a thin plastic core. ~3mm thick. You can score it to bend it. You can roll it around a mandrel to make a radiused bend. With a couple of little bends put into it it becomes massively stiff, because it's already pretty stiff, being a composite construction.

Duck's nuts for undertray/ducting work like that.

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23 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

From recent experience, the very best stuff for this is signboard. It's the stuff they use for real estate signs and the like. Thin sheetmetal each side of a thin plastic core. ~3mm thick. You can score it to bend it. You can roll it around a mandrel to make a radiused bend. With a couple of little bends put into it it becomes massively stiff, because it's already pretty stiff, being a composite construction.

Duck's nuts for undertray/ducting work like that.

This stuff?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminium-Composite-Panel-WHITE-BLACK-600-x-400-mm-Building-Signage-Trailer/172785939441?hash=item283ad833f1:g:41MAAOSwblZZJjTD

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3 hours ago, mlr said:

Nope, purely from boredom and best practice 

OEM has a heat sheild, this doesn't, I've typically had some form of thermal protection on any and all modified exhaust manifolds to quell radiant heat

My next mod, for no other reason than I think it is best practice, will be to create some form of ducting from my front bar to the radiator, currently air can just drop down under the radiator.

As I've added a trans cooler to the stack I feel it would be a worthwhile project 

20201214_152040.thumb.jpg.8eefd46f34de14e8ec2e21dfe918254f.jpg

 Fixing non existant issues is  a nifty plan, but  how about forcing air into the engine with the help of a spooly Boi or spinning rotors?

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1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

 Fixing non existant issues is  a nifty plan, but  how about forcing air into the engine with the help of a spooly Boi or spinning rotors?

The car is currently extremely reliable, if I want to fix that issue, I could boost it

I did look at giving it a bit more "poke", but the additional torque would require a built gearbox, amongst other things, and questionable reliability, so, I though that the amount of money spent on boosting a old commodore could be spent elsewhere 

On what, I haven't worked out yet

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46 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Patience! He said the same about the 86 for the first 17 pages...

Honestly mate, I would rather get one of these to play with> https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/mazda/mx-5/se-badge/nb-series-4-series/manual-transmission

My google search keeps gravitating back to MX5's

And it would cost much less than boosting the old Dunnydoore

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12 hours ago, mlr said:

Honestly mate, I would rather get one of these to play with> https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/mazda/mx-5/se-badge/nb-series-4-series/manual-transmission

My google search keeps gravitating back to MX5's

And it would cost much less than boosting the old Dunnydoore

My gf is literally about to put hers up for sale. Feel free to ask away if you like (about it, or them in general) via PM to not clog up thread.

Unless you want to clog up this thread after all, as it's your thread, do what you like man, fk the rest, turn it into a MX5 thread so this little thing lives on.

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1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

My gf is literally about to put hers up for sale. Feel free to ask away if you like (about it, or them in general) via PM to not clog up thread.

Unless you want to clog up this thread after all, as it's your thread, do what you like man, fk the rest, turn it into a MX5 thread so this little thing lives on.

Send linky please

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On 13/12/2020 at 8:18 PM, Kinkstaah said:

Please do, I've been examining this thing, and the only picture is for a V8 that is *not* the LS1 manifold. (it's from earlier Chev V8s')

I am wondering how this thing would go with the coil pack leads.
image.thumb.png.aac7f25350d569471e743616e123938c.png

It doesn't look like it'd fit over (over the coilpacks?? across the top of the plug leads?) and has no provisions for spark plug leads themselves.

Please post an update as I have the same item sitting in my cart at EMA 😛
 

Fitting heat sheilding- part 1

Ok, so the stuff arrived

 

As usual the ebay description was not quite correct, there are no tabs on the material at all.

20201221_110324.thumb.jpg.1580b4e3c01a1b6359fbf181c7c0dee1.jpg

So, I just stabbed stainless steel cable ties through which has worked a treat.

As for the sheet size and fixing it to the headers.

The "kit" consisted of 2 sheets of about 25" x 20"

Issue: using 1 full sheet wasn't really going to work for each header due to the limited access in the engine bay

Fix: I measured up both sides and worked out where I had access, turned out cutting the sheet in half 25" x 10" worked a treat

20201221_120150.thumb.jpg.24e88dcd072c1913793bf7862377d9a2.jpg

When fitting I pulled the coils for more access but left the leads connected to the plugs to form the stuff around

lots of ties later

20201221_120058.thumb.jpg.8b9ae64f7add861a8fb9d44d8af78862.jpg

20201221_120119.thumb.jpg.87130f16b61c5f4b94db8116030173bd.jpg20201221_124234.thumb.jpg.01938cf159c36565634d93a72f05a97a.jpg20201221_124715.thumb.jpg.3b86b4e3a474ab5167b1632b717bb093.jpg

Since the pics it has been cured (yeah, pretty smokey) and has seemed to form fit a little better.

For coverage as of now is from the primaries just past the first collectors

Part 2: next time the car is on stands, sometime this week probably, will involve using the remaining sheet, cut in half, and placed over the top of the secondaries to keep the heat from them radiating into the firewall and foot well, well, for 25" anyways

In the end the difference in radiant heat is very noticeable to my uncalibrated hand, yeap, I though fark it and proceeded to touch the headers after the drive to cure the stuff, yes it was hot, but, no burns or melted skin, which was nice

In other news: I noticed your sound deadening, nice, I got some of that "car builder" thick underbonnet soft foam stuff and cut to suit the frame, I am just waiting on a new OEM style underbonnet sound proofing to turn up to neaten it up and add a little more sound proofing

20201221_124903.thumb.jpg.e42ddf9a3c8516f17835e5a4c77a5a99.jpg

 

Groovy 

20201221_124903.jpg

20201221_120150.jpg

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