Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 minute ago, Lamsr334door said:

Interior looks amazing dude, the dash suits it so well, I've been tossing up with either an IC-7, microtech or AIM  dash, also where did you get the AC control unit moulding from, I like that location

 

overall was this an easy install and would you recommend it ? if yes could u do a quick run down of all the wires u spliced into n stuff, i want a dash for my 33 but I'm lazy as f**k with wiring ( do it every day with work ) and can never be bothered wiring shit on my own car haha

Lol i get it man. Its like all the landscapers with $h!tțy yards.

It took a bit to figure out the wiring and what all was need as the speedo converts some signals. Overall it was an easy task once it was all clear.

Scan thru this post. I posted a link on a how-to for the fuel sender.

Speedo wiring to the aftermarket calibrator/ charge light info is in here as well

You will have to wire the hi-beams/turn signals/e-brake/parking light directly to the units connectors (IC-7). I took pics of the back of my oem cluster which is used to find which wires I needed to t-tap into. Sorry I dont remember the colors of them.

 

The HVAC/shifter surround is from Garage Yoshida

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

I was curious  on wiring the the signals, hi beams, e brake, You just take a wire from the back of ic7 and then tap it directly into the plug off the cluster? I briefly tried it and it wouldnt illuminate on the ic7 dash, Is there something im missing?

1 hour ago, R324u said:

I was curious  on wiring the the signals, hi beams, e brake, You just take a wire from the back of ic7 and then tap it directly into the plug off the cluster? I briefly tried it and it wouldnt illuminate on the ic7 dash, Is there something im missing?

Yes. Run the signal wires for those to the pins outline in the IC-7 instructions. 

Make sure to push the pin lock open on the plug so the pins can seat all the way in.

  • Thanks 1

exactly, you literally just tap the correct wires at the dash because they all operate the way the dash requires, including the handbrake. (potentially excluding speed and fuel level sender as discussed above)

  • Thanks 1
22 hours ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

Yes. Run the signal wires for those to the pins outline in the IC-7 instructions. 

Make sure to push the pin lock open on the plug so the pins can seat all the way in.

Ok that was the issue wasn’t seated all the way, I Ran a test wire through but I can’t seem to find the the little deustch connectors, did the ic7 come with them or am I going crazy ? 

C2CAEF67-A3C2-41E8-8671-A8F35971846A.jpeg

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, R324u said:

I’m assuming you’re referring the battery light (wire) on the stock cluster ?

The battery light in the dash cluster is the charge light. Have a read through the whole thread, it's been covered off already. 

  • Like 1
On 10/20/2020 at 4:47 PM, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

I used the fuel sender value I found on HERE

I really didnt want to pull the sender out at the time. I'm curious to see your readings

 

On a side note you may need the Haltech GPS module to clock the speed correct for the IC-7. The speedo signal goes to the OEM cluster before the ECU which makes it a pain to get the speed correct.

So for the fuel level, it’s literally one wire to get it to work and it should self ground from the pump? No Matter how I configure it it does not work correctly anyone have any ideas ? I’m using the far left wire in picture for the fuel gauge 

2EC1D327-0B42-41F9-84BB-5B211F7E3899.jpeg

2 hours ago, R324u said:

So for the fuel level, it’s literally one wire to get it to work and it should self ground from the pump? No Matter how I configure it it does not work correctly anyone have any ideas ? I’m using the far left wire in picture for the fuel gauge 

2EC1D327-0B42-41F9-84BB-5B211F7E3899.jpeg

Gonna need the fuel level sender conditioner. Haltech makes one

 

On Haltech ECUs the signal wire goes into one of the AVI inputs

20201112_163142.jpg

On 11/8/2020 at 2:49 AM, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

Yes. Run the signal wires for those to the pins outline in the IC-7 instructions. 

Make sure to push the pin lock open on the plug so the pins can seat all the way in.

Ok that was the issue wasn’t seated all the way, I Ran a test wire through but I can’t seem to find the the little deustch connectors, did the ic7 come with them or am I going crazy 

2 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Haltech have just updated the IC7, you can feed the raw fuel level signal straight into the dash now if that's easier.

 

God damn it.... that would have been helpful when I did mine. At least I can swap it now and free up an avi for the haltech for the oil temp sensor

  • Like 1
Just now, R324u said:

Yes I’ve tried to put it through the dash, just as the update but it does not do anything for me, idk I called haltech and they really didn’t help much either. Gonna have to keep messing with it 

I wired mine up about an hr ago and it worked..

The the red/gray wire for signal (i used pin 18

The teal wire is the ground for pin 30

 

Make sure to select the correct channel for the AVI you used. And use 90-0 ohm

 

The you select the spot on your dash for the fuel level choose the AVI, not fuel level.

 

You still are required to adjust the voltage. 

 

 

  • Like 1
1 minute ago, Tobz said:

God damn it.... that would have been helpful when I did mine. At least I can swap it now and free up an avi for the haltech for the oil temp sensor

Rt. I will keep both hooked up and see with one reads the most accurate. As of now I feel like the oem to dash is better.

 

My fuel level conditioner does a weird thing where it reads high then levels out after about 30secs. Im sure its something I can adjust in the ecu. The oem just reads the level instantly 

3 minutes ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

Rt. I will keep both hooked up and see with one reads the most accurate. As of now I feel like the oem to dash is better.

 

My fuel level conditioner does a weird thing where it reads high then levels out after about 30secs. Im sure its something I can adjust in the ecu. The oem just reads the level instantly 

Be interesting to see if tue oem to dash bounces around more while driving

1 minute ago, Tobz said:

Be interesting to see if tue oem to dash bounces around more while driving

I will investigate soon. I also have to see if my voltage setting are correct as well once I fill up.

  • Like 1
12 hours ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:

I wired mine up about an hr ago and it worked..

The the red/gray wire for signal (i used pin 18

The teal wire is the ground for pin 30

 

Make sure to select the correct channel for the AVI you used. And use 90-0 ohm

 

The you select the spot on your dash for the fuel level choose the AVI, not fuel level.

 

You still are required to adjust the voltage. 

 

 

I was able to make some progress on it  last night by doing this just saw your post., I had to set the dash to default, what car are you using this on an r32?  I’m using pin 21/ 30 for the ground but those wire colors  you mentioned don’t match up to what I have so I’m guessing you have a diff chassis 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...