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Murray_Calavera

Getting fuel level signal into the ECU

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Hi all,

I need to get my fuel level signal into my Haltech ECU and I wanted to get some ideas before I pulled my dash apart. 

Is this going to be as simple as, a signal wire will run into the stock fuel level gauge and for example, full is 5 volts empty is 1 volt etc. Then I can create a rough table checking the volts as the fuel levels change. 

The Haltech IC7 dash now has support for odometer and fuel level so I'm keen to bin the stock dash and just run this with a sexy 3D printed dash cluster. 

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Your plan is valid.

But, be careful about binning the dash. A number of things rely on the speedo generating the speed signal. You'll need workarounds for any of those that are still functioning on the car. You also need the charge light function. Maybe there's a couple of other things too.

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You need to check the resistance of the sender at full and empty to calibrate the gauge, I haven't checked how the IC7 does that yet. If it needs to be an ECU input you just plug the values into the fuel level calibration in the haltech.

R32 GTR values are in the workshop manual from memory.

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Multimeter behind the dash, check resistance at different levels, create that table in Kebabtech and fully sick kebabs!

I feel that the curve might not be linear, so you would need to map out 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8, full and linearise the rest.

I had this cracked dream too, but now might just strip the car.

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i need to alter the values in my haltech as it reads 80 when full and 35-40 when sort of empty - dont actually know how empty it is as the only dash i have is the IQ3. going to 3d print a nice cluster for it myself when i can be arsed to draw one up. 

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Did you get this sorted with the level readings ? Was thinking about doing this too in the Haltech on the current 32 build. The resistance values to work off are 90 - 0 ohms with the Nissans. In a 32 GTR they are actually 6 at full and 80 for empty. The values are linear.

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I haven't gotten around to it yet but I'll play with those numbers when I do and see if it's the same for 33 gtst. 

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I’m just about to try the same thing in my R34 GTR.. Please let me know how you go if you get to it before I do, if I mange to sort it before this page is updated, I’ll put my workings up here ??

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4 hours ago, SHOWOFFR32 said:

I’m just about to try the same thing in my R34 GTR.. Please let me know how you go if you get to it before I do, if I mange to sort it before this page is updated, I’ll put my workings up here ??

Hey mate, I still haven't started this job as I've been waiting for my 3D printed dash to arrive from Mako Motorsport... Been waiting about 2 months so far and they aren't replying to my emails =/

My install might be a bit different to yours, I ended up buying the Haltech fuel level sender signal conditioner so I'll be using voltage to build my fuel level table. 

I'll still post up what I end up doing after its all done and dusted. 

I'm getting tempted to put through a charge back for the dash and ordering one from 3dracingsolutions

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Posted (edited)

Aaahhh don’t tell me that!! I JUST ordered a Mako Motorsport fascia also.. ?

I did send them an email asking if I could drill my own holes on Saturday afternoon and get a email back saying “Sure, well update your order” on the Saturday night!? I wonder why they won’t reply to you?

Fuel level signal conditioner? I’ve never heard of that before, I’ll do some research and see if it’ll help with my install too possibly.

Ive been made aware that the ecu gets its speed signal, some central locking stuff, rear de mister and possibly something abs related all come  from the original cluster also, so a work around for all these is most likely required.

Someone gave me the idea to use the original circuit board (they’re pretty thin) in behind the Mako Motorsport dash piece. I’ve optioned for the recessed IC7 so they’re may not be much room left behind mine after install..

Attached are the electrical diagrams for the gauge cluster and the central locking stuff ??

48B9A679-DBBB-4CC6-9624-9F10A7A733B7.jpeg

24AA34BE-99FB-4AF3-97A2-12EB2E7B95E3.jpeg

30B5E249-B981-4DF9-8FDC-D0C67CA0665D.jpeg

B43AE45C-2A0C-4228-9107-42E695070E7F.jpeg

Edited by SHOWOFFR32
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Yep it's pretty annoying, they replied to my emails when I was spending money. I asked them about fitting LED lights, they got straight back to me. Now that I'm asking for an ETA... radio silence. 

What ECU are you using? The IC7 can't be fed the fuel level signal directly. 

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6 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Yep it's pretty annoying, they replied to my emails when I was spending money. I asked them about fitting LED lights, they got straight back to me. Now that I'm asking for an ETA... radio silence. 

What ECU are you using? The IC7 can't be fed the fuel level signal directly. 

I’m using the Link G4X plug in.. I’ll need a way to get the signal into the ecu.

I had a look at the Haltech fuel signal conditioner and will most likely buy one for mine also.

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On 7/26/2020 at 5:36 AM, SHOWOFFR32 said:

Aaahhh don’t tell me that!! I JUST ordered a Mako Motorsport fascia also.. ?

 

My dash was posted a few days after my email which they didn't reply to. It arrived yesterday. It's wrong and the quality is questionable. 

Time to send them another email and hopefully they will send me the dash I paid for. Wish me luck. 

Fingers crossed my dash was a practice one and yours is much better. 

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4 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

My dash was posted a few days after my email which they didn't reply to. It arrived yesterday. It's wrong and the quality is questionable. 

Time to send them another email and hopefully they will send me the dash I paid for. Wish me luck. 

Fingers crossed my dash was a practice one and yours is much better. 

Wow that’s terrible news, so many people I know have told me about these mounts so you’d think they’d be okay quality by now?

Mind posting a photo of the one you received?

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I ordered one with the battery LED option, you can see the additional $20 charge for that option on the invoice. There is no battery LED on my dash. 

None of the edges on the dash are straight. I don't know if my standards are too high, but I would expect where the IC7 sits to have a straight edge to sit flush with the IC7 display. 

It's hard to tell with the photos as the black doesn't make it easy to see. 

I'll get some photos taken with my IC7 mounted in it a bit later. 

Dash 1.jpg

Dash 2.jpg

Dash 3.jpg

Dash 4.jpg

Dash 5.jpg

Dash 6.jpg

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Wow I see what you mean!? I’m keen to see the photo with the IC7 mounted!

Sorry to hear you’ve had a poor experience with them.

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42 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I ordered one with the battery LED option, you can see the additional $20 charge for that option on the invoice. There is no battery LED on my dash. 

None of the edges on the dash are straight. I don't know if my standards are too high, but I would expect where the IC7 sits to have a straight edge to sit flush with the IC7 display. 

It's hard to tell with the photos as the black doesn't make it easy to see. 

I'll get some photos taken with my IC7 mounted in it a bit later. 

Dash 1.jpg

Dash 2.jpg

Dash 3.jpg

Dash 4.jpg

Dash 5.jpg

Dash 6.jpg

Its a 3d printed part thats been spray painted to hide the layer lines, i believe its always going to look like that really. when i designed and 3d printed my own i actually left it how it came off the printer as it adds a bit of character in my opinion.

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Thanks for the feedback, I really didn't know what to expect. When you look at the photos they use on the website, it's all so perfect. Guess it's a bit of the old Big Mac photo, Big Mac reality lol 

Still though, I want my battery LED light :(

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2 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Thanks for the feedback, I really didn't know what to expect. When you look at the photos they use on the website, it's all so perfect. Guess it's a bit of the old Big Mac photo, Big Mac reality lol 

Still though, I want my battery LED light :(

Thats because the images on the website arent photos but 3d renders spat out by solidworks/fusion 360, everything looks better on CAD.

I belive there is actually a way now of spitting out the sliced file (essentially gcode for the 3d printer) putting it back into the cad package and then being able to render it - showing how it would truly look once printed with all the layer lines etc..

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