Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did my headlights a few years back:

https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/r32-projector-hid-mod.172066/page-3

They are still going strong, but the chrome reflector has started to oxidise (yellowish) and now I just want to paint them back. I don't really want to be opening the headlights every few years to clean/rechrome etc.

The 78Works headlights caught my eye, modernise the looks of the car a lot, but would be great if someone posted a review on them.

 

6 hours ago, TXSquirrel said:

To retain factory adjustment, you will need to make a bracket similar to this or cut up your factory projector.

Nah, Lightwerkz have conversion brackets. It couldn't be any easier than what they make it. Except for all the baking the light open and the wiring changes, and so on.

6 hours ago, CSB said:

I did my headlights a few years back:

https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/r32-projector-hid-mod.172066/page-3

They are still going strong, but the chrome reflector has started to oxidise (yellowish) and now I just want to paint them back. I don't really want to be opening the headlights every few years to clean/rechrome etc.

The 78Works headlights caught my eye, modernise the looks of the car a lot, but would be great if someone posted a review on them.

 

The 78Works stuff is a Coplus headlight. You can probably get one locally and save on shipping charges. There's some threads on the "Morimoto" Corvette LED headlights which are also made by Coplus: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-corvette-general-discussion/4152679-vette-lights-new-to-market-c6-corvette-morimoto-xb-led-headlights-group-buy.html

I contacted them a while back to see if they had an LHD variant but it sounds like they only make the RHD variant. I'm guessing that to get an LHD version of the R32 LED lights people would have to organize a non-trivial group buy.

Edited by joshuaho96
3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Nah, Lightwerkz have conversion brackets. It couldn't be any easier than what they make it. Except for all the baking the light open and the wiring changes, and so on.

Ahh I see it, should make this job very convenient.  Is this new?  I was searching for a pre-made bracket like this a year ago but didn't find any.

4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

"The 78Works stuff is a Coplus headlight."

Thanks for mentioning that, i might buy a set come tax time. so i'll put up a review when i order them!

Looks like it uses a half decent LED projector, hopefully it's a Koito copy and not the crap ones.

Would be a good upgrade from the factory 1989 halogen projectors regardless.

Personally I wouldn't bother with LED projector unless it's Koito or equivalent, D2S is cheaper and you get great results.

This is Morimoto Mini D2S 3.0 IIRCIk7nQ12.jpg

1h2zYqK.jpg

  • 3 months later...

So i've finally pulled the pin and ordered a set from CT Auto parts, will put up a detailed review once they arrive

https://www.ctautoparts.com.au/coplus-dual-led-projector-headlight-for-89-94-nissan-skyline-r32-gts-t-gt-r-rb25det-rb26dett.html

1 hour ago, DaymoR32 said:

So i've finally pulled the pin and ordered a set from CT Auto parts, will put up a detailed review once they arrive

https://www.ctautoparts.com.au/coplus-dual-led-projector-headlight-for-89-94-nissan-skyline-r32-gts-t-gt-r-rb25det-rb26dett.html

I saw these listed on eBay for $2k the other day and just about died of shock (at the size of the price). I tried to find them on Alibaba to see if they were available for half that....but failed.

$1300 is only a little bit more palatable. They will want to be bloody good! I too echo the demand for output shots.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

I saw these listed on eBay for $2k the other day and just about died of shock (at the size of the price). I tried to find them on Alibaba to see if they were available for half that....but failed.

$1300 is only a little bit more palatable. They will want to be bloody good! I too echo the demand for output shots.

yeah the same compnay have them listed on ebay for 2k, whereas if you go on their website they are $1300. 

They have been out of stock for ages. i bought a set and now they are out of stock again. 

Will definitely get beam pattern shots etc (as best i can with an iphone 11 pro) 

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

I saw these listed on eBay for $2k the other day and just about died of shock (at the size of the price). I tried to find them on Alibaba to see if they were available for half that....but failed.

$1300 is only a little bit more palatable. They will want to be bloody good! I too echo the demand for output shots.

They don't list on Alibaba, probably because they're actually a company based in Taiwan: https://www.coplus.com.tw/home

I am keen on the results too @DaymoR32

I have been too tight to buy a set but have also been considering a HID conversion. Don't know what the popo would be more upset about: HIDs or something they thought were HIDs.

1300 dollarydoos is a lot but N1s are pretty awful

11 hours ago, Robzilla32 said:

I am keen on the results too @DaymoR32

I have been too tight to buy a set but have also been considering a HID conversion. Don't know what the popo would be more upset about: HIDs or something they thought were HIDs.

1300 dollarydoos is a lot but N1s are pretty awful

yeah $1300 is a lot but i did offset the cost by clearing some garage space of old parts from my previous 32, i've been hovering over the buy button for a while (as i'm a tight yorkshireman).

I also have N1 headlights which are horrific at night, so even if these new lights are terrible im sure they'll still be a bit better ?

Morimoto HID retro into original projector housings makes a lot of sense.

Back in the day, when almost no cars had HIDs, anyone who foolishly put HIDs into original housings (and even original projectors, as would be obvious given that there were no replacement projector options anyway) stood out like dogs' balls. Nowadays, nearly every new car >$25k has HIDs and many many are poorly adjusted and flash all sorts of shit light at people and anyone with a retro is not going to stand out. And, with an R32 with projectors, you can point to the fact that you still have projectors and say to the cop, "well, these things did have halogen projectors from the factory you know, so just because you can see projector lenses here doesn't mean I've jammed HIDs into it....." and hope that they buy it, should you ever actually get hauled over.

When I can get my shit together, this is what I will be doing.

In the meantime, all I have is the best white halogen bulbs you can buy, relays connected directly behind the globes and a fat power feed direct from main power to those relays to maximise the volts and watts. It's fine. It could be better, but it's fine. The high beams have more than sufficient reach and low beams simply don't really matter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...