Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have changed my front to evo with alpha omega racing so it is running evo 6 caliper and big routers

 

rear is stock and all corners rebuild with red stuff pads

 

fluid is dot 4 castrol racing and braided lines all around

 

i also bought brake stopper to stop master cylinder travel 

 

i have a horrible softbrake but if pushed it will stop hard

hate the feeling though as front are 4 pot rather than 2

 

i am also looking to install evo caliper and 370z rear disc which is big brakes rear

 

i think that will make brake feel worse

 

would installing bm57 help?

 

seen various feedbacks people stating larger cylinder like bm57 makes it even softer 

 

i don’t know much about master cylinder and what brake bias i would have but looking for some advice

 

it is on r34 gtt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480381-bm57-master-cylinder/
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

seen various feedbacks people stating larger cylinder like bm57 makes it even softer

Not possible unless you f**k up the bleeding.

What do the ratios of piston areas look like, Sumitomo caliper vs Evo caliper? Surely you did this research before you bought the kit.

 

I went from GTT brakes to an 8 pot KSport/D2/Attakd/Clone kit. I had similar symptoms to OP.

I noticed that people who had GTR's who upgraded to the brakes I bought said they had no brake feel issues.
I noticed that people who had GTR's who upgraded to Evo brakes and they said they had no brake feel issues.

The BM57 was a night and day difference, much firmer.
I got annoyed at it for many years. Just buy a BM57.

I did the Evo Caliper/Evo10/ Alpha Omega front conversion on my 34 over Christmas

From a few people I'd spoken to via a FB group, series 1 R34's had a BM44, and series 2 has a BM50

The BM50 has L5 cast onto it, the BM44 has L4 cast onto it

People with the BM44 had issues with the ABS not kicking in if you jumped on the brakes hard. Someone mentioned it was a volume issue

Mine with the BM50 seems to work great so far.

I had a similar issue about with a squishy pedal when I swapped to 33 brakes on my 32. I put the calipers on the wrong side, and couldn't bleed the brakes as the nipples were at the bottom :D:D Looking back that was pretty funny - check the bleed nipples are at the top

 

42 minutes ago, Unzipped Composites said:

HFM sell a BM57 master cylinder for around $150. At that price, how could you not?

BEWARE

I read bad things about the HFM one.
I also found out that Z32 BM57's are NOT the same. The knee point on the Z32 one will lock your rears much longer before they start to engage the fronts. The GTR ones are the ones you want. There's a R34 and R33 version. What's the difference between those? I have NFI. I got the R33 GTR version and the clip does work on a R34.

My R34 had nothing labelled on it's BMC, only a L6... which isn't L4 or L5!

IMG_20200228_184326.thumb.jpg.e666db7dc0f8606e8602b12c9c1bfc96.jpgIMG_20200228_184313.thumb.jpg.e5bc89a5f9b68374ace3422c2ae312cf.jpgIMG_20200228_184344.thumb.jpg.6cb75bc33bb37bebeb91d8a578d19059.jpg

 

6 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I went from GTT brakes to an 8 pot KSport/D2/Attakd/Clone kit. I had similar symptoms to OP.

I noticed that people who had GTR's who upgraded to the brakes I bought said they had no brake feel issues.
I noticed that people who had GTR's who upgraded to Evo brakes and they said they had no brake feel issues.

The BM57 was a night and day difference, much firmer.
I got annoyed at it for many years. Just buy a BM57.

Exactly the same here but on a GTST R33 - same front brakes, same soft pedal, same years of annoyance - the BM57 made a huge difference.

3 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

BEWARE

I read bad things about the HFM one.

I searched around and saw a few posts to this extent, but it was always reference to having read bad things, I never actually found a post written by someone who had a bad experience and what the issues were. There's a few good reviews on their website, not that those carry a lot of weight.

 

We'll find out anyway, I've ordered one for my car. Figured it was worth a punt.

2 hours ago, Unzipped Composites said:

I searched around and saw a few posts to this extent, but it was always reference to having read bad things, I never actually found a post written by someone who had a bad experience and what the issues were. There's a few good reviews on their website, not that those carry a lot of weight.

 

We'll find out anyway, I've ordered one for my car. Figured it was worth a punt.

The only thing I found from it (other than "I heard it was bad") was that it had the same bias as a Z32 BM57, which holds 50/50 split much longer (double) than a GTR one which splits to 60/40 much earlier.

In other words, expect more rear bias with the HFM/Z32 BM57. Doubt anyone would notice it unless you tried both back to back in different cars though.

22 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

The only thing I found from it (other than "I heard it was bad") was that it had the same bias as a Z32 BM57, which holds 50/50 split much longer (double) than a GTR one which splits to 60/40 much earlier.

In other words, expect more rear bias with the HFM/Z32 BM57. Doubt anyone would notice it unless you tried both back to back in different cars though.

If that is the only issue, then it isn't exactly an issue and more just something to be aware of and have in your mind if you get rear brake lock ups. Realistically, there's no saying standard distribution is more suited to a car than more rear bias. There's so many things affecting that, so standard bias on a modified S-chassis isn't necessarily the best anyway.

 

I would consider leaking and poor fitment as issues to beware of, but I shall endeavour to report back on this once the car hits the track again. If it's not poor quality, then it may still be a very good cheap option.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...