Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unsure if this is the right forum to post under..

I'm looking for opinions on whether I would be better to go 20de +T or put a 25 cam into it? 

My friends said 25 cam, I personally want a turbo but can't do both due to high compression? 

This probably makes no sense. (Sorry) just very confused. 

IMG_20200506_153755_408.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, JordanRochelle said:

Sorry, 25 cam shaft? 

changing the cam to any possible other cam in an RB20 is a total waste of time and effort. Turboing an RB20 is also a waste of time as the result will be disapointing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933087
Share on other sites

On 15/06/2020 at 7:12 PM, Ben C34 said:

changing the cam to any possible other cam in an RB20 is a total waste of time and effort. Turboing an RB20 is also a waste of time as the result will be disapointing.

Why disappointing? I've seen plenty of 20de+t that go hard... I'm not chasing power or huge numbers. Just something fun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933577
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

They only go hard above 5000rpm. Everywhere else they suck.

This ^^^^^

Having previously owned an RB20DET with a few mods and now having a RB25DET NEO

the difference lower down in the rev range is massivley noticeable

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933605
Share on other sites

Honestly...sell that rolling wreck for whatever you can get for it.  

Buy a going RB25.... if you have to.  Otherwise just about any other car will do till you get off your P's.

Reason, adding a cam is a waste of $$$, changing the motor to an RB25 makes more sense, but is a costly and ultimately futile build.  

Plus by the time you cut out the rust, redo the window seals, fix up the front end, upgrade the brakes, suspension, and other stuff, you are up for big $$$.  Buying an RB25 with all this stuff done and then setting out to improve it even more will cost much less and also  - in the end - be a better car.  Plus side of a 25 is what you take off can be resold.

The only possible reason for continuing with that RB20 is you are starting with a 'blank canvas', but its 12 months to 3 years of hard yakka getting it done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933606
Share on other sites

On 17/06/2020 at 12:48 PM, tridentt150v said:

Honestly...sell that rolling wreck for whatever you can get for it.  

Buy a going RB25.... if you have to.  Otherwise just about any other car will do till you get off your P's.

Reason, adding a cam is a waste of $$$, changing the motor to an RB25 makes more sense, but is a costly and ultimately futile build.  

Plus by the time you cut out the rust, redo the window seals, fix up the front end, upgrade the brakes, suspension, and other stuff, you are up for big $$$.  Buying an RB25 with all this stuff done and then setting out to improve it even more will cost much less and also  - in the end - be a better car.  Plus side of a 25 is what you take off can be resold.

The only possible reason for continuing with that RB20 is you are starting with a 'blank canvas', but its 12 months to 3 years of hard yakka getting it done.

I'm in NZ so don't have the issues on Ps etc.. 

I have all the parts of this body, the body is straight no rust anywhere.. I just want to keep my 20de cause I have it torn down ready for rebuild. I can get a full rebuild kit cheap asf cause my partner works in parts. Could also get a det block too but I'm just not sure. 

I don't want to put the 25 cam shaft into it, I'd rather get a det block or a +T but the boys reckon a 25 cam would be better ??‍♀️

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933882
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, JordanRochelle said:

but the boys reckon a 25 cam would be better

so they think an RB25 Cam (assume you are talking inlet only, there are 2? ) in an RB20DE is better than either an RB20DE+T and an RB25DET?

thats potentially the most retarded thing I have read on here in a while. Even with the best camshafts in the world (2 of them) in an RB20DE it is still a heap of shit. even rebuilt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933886
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, JordanRochelle said:

but the boys reckon a 25 cam would be better

And just to hit this one again....the difference between the 20 cams and the 25 cams is so small that the time, money and effort spent on the swap would be better spent buying 6" railway spikes to hammer into your own skull.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933889
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, JordanRochelle said:

but the boys reckon a 25 cam would be better ??‍♀️

The boys at the local kindergarten?  Can they tell you how it is different (and I can tell you that as GTSBoy says its SFA) and what difference it will make?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7933914
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Good on you for resurrecting another Skyline.

Looks like a big project. If you are in for the long haul, and if I were you, I would look at getting the 20det bock, pistons turbo and build it from the bottom to top. I am not too sure that is all the differences. But do your homework and calculate what it is going to cost, then double it. A good 20det screams nicely. 

Good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480604-help/#findComment-7935147
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...