Haltech Platinum Pro & Stock R33

[MindlessR33]

So, I got a brand new Haltech Platinum Pro, Haltech wide band, and Haltech boost solenoid at a steal. I know I'll need them next year when I start really building the car, but are there any benefits on an otherwise stock motor, stock turbo, stock fuel system car that would make it worth installing now? 

[Ben C34]

yes. Few reasons below

1. you will be more familiar with the software and logging when it doesnt matter so much so no real pressure
2. you can have safeties setup so if something happens it saves the engine (overheat, low oil pressure, low fuel pressure, etc)
3. set the tune up to shoot flames to make up for car being stock, thats heaps of points right there especially in America!

 

 

[Murray_Calavera]

I would do it for sure, for the reasons above plus there is power to be had, turn the boost up to 10 psi and dial in some timing, it's a very noticeable bump in power. 

[robbo_rb180]

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

yes. Few reasons below

1. set the tune up to shoot flames to make up for car being stock, thats heaps of points right there especially in America!

 

 

Lol'd way too musch at this.

Definitely put it in, as above with becoming familiar with the software but also niceties such as better fuel economy, cold/warm starts, closed loop boost control even diagnosing issues with igintion and sensors is so much easier as can log everything.

[joshuaho96]

If you put in a wideband sensor you can run the car slightly leaner on boost, pretty sure the stock map is like 10.5:1 AFR or something hilarious like that. You can lean it out a bit and avoid running into excessive rich/retard if you turn up the boost. Generally cleaning up fuel and timing like that will improve fuel economy and response.

[Blakeo]

Throw the Haltech right in the bin and get a Link ecu. They are way better and more reliable. 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

3 hours ago, Blakeo said:

Throw the Haltech right in the bin and get a Link ecu. They are way better and more reliable. 

Based on what evidence? I've never had an issues with the Haltechs I've tuned.

It's 2020 not 1999 when Haltechs were in fact junk and unreliable.

[Blakeo]

21 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Based on what evidence? I've never had an issues with the Haltechs I've tuned.

It's 2020 not 1999 when Haltechs were in fact junk and unreliable.

I had a Haltech Platinum in my R33 that had 101 problems, Haltech were helpful but getting a replacement ecu after changing basically everything mechanical wise with their advice was nearly impossible (kept blaming everything but the ecu). Ended up opting for a refund, bought a link g4+ and no issues with the same setup.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

11 hours ago, Blakeo said:

I had a Haltech Platinum in my R33 that had 101 problems, Haltech were helpful but getting a replacement ecu after changing basically everything mechanical wise with their advice was nearly impossible (kept blaming everything but the ecu). Ended up opting for a refund, bought a link g4+ and no issues with the same setup.

Maybe its your luck, to be honest I've never had a single problem with any Haltech (I've setup/tuned about a dozen).

Not saying Link isn't a fantastic ECU, just I've seen too many people quick to blame something too many times on this forum.

[Kinkstaah]

Also replacing a Haltech Platinum Pro with a G4+ is not an apples for apples comparison. Did you replace an Elite 2500 with one?

Generally speaking most standalone ECU's only really cause issues when wired in wrong.

There are always benefits to aftermarket management if you know what you are doing, or are curious to learn and get it right. It can be very satisfying!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

25 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Generally speaking most standalone ECU's only really cause issues when wired in wrong.

this!

Especially when you get people use the ECU IGN power to power their wide bands, and when you see people using chassis GND for sensors.

Funny enough, I had to correct wiring on IS200 with a 1JZ swap wired by a "motorsport wiring professional". He had the wideband sensor GND output to the chassis then told me to use a voltage offset in the ECU. Then when setting up the tune, we found issues with the coolant temperature. Turns out the "motorsport wiring professional" had 1x sensor connected to the Elite CTS input and also the stock Lexus ECU input.

Now is it really the ECU's fault here?

[Kinkstaah]

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Now is it really the ECU's fault here?

Yes. Absolutely.

Now I get to worry where all my power and grounds are wired to/from!

[Blakeo]

On 8/17/2020 at 12:13 PM, Kinkstaah said:

Also replacing a Haltech Platinum Pro with a G4+ is not an apples for apples comparison. Did you replace an Elite 2500 with one?

Generally speaking most standalone ECU's only really cause issues when wired in wrong.

There are always benefits to aftermarket management if you know what you are doing, or are curious to learn and get it right. It can be very satisfying!

Haltech Platinum Pro, was a plug-in deal. My wideband was wired in using a separate relay, and the signal ground from the ecu (as recommended). 

The Link was a lot more cost effective compared to the Elite 2500, and from already having a bad experience I was more comfortable going with the Link and happy I did. It's a very capable and reliable ecu, the help documents are second to none and everything just works as it should. 

I'm sure the Haltech is good too, if your lucky enough not to get what I and my tuner believed to be a defective device.