Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,
i am building a 350z drift missile with a florida imported Aristo 2jz GTE VVTI


My partner and I are trying to make it as "budget friendly" as possible while still retaining reliability and decent performance. We have a build list of new parts such as top mount manifold, turbo, gaskets, studs, oil pump, water pump etc etc. 


So here is my question.... while the engine is out, we were planning on doing all the rotating assembly bearings and we were wondering If it would make sense that we pull the pistons out, clean it up, then replace all rings, then finally hone the cylinder bores with a honing pad/stone ourselves

I know that you shouldnt trouble the rings and bores if you are making good compression but if the engine is out... wouldnt it be a good idea? Is this too risky? i have seen a few people who have just got a hone and new rings and reused the stock rods and pistons but i would like to know if honing is something you can do your self and still achieve good results. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481218-engine-rebuild-question/
Share on other sites

EDIT: look i know that you  "CAN" do it your self and there is a few videos on youtube who show them selves at home with a drill and what not but i want to know if what they are doing is wrong and if they are just a set of bone heads. so yeah thats my question... lol ?

Yes, you can. The main issue is the drill speed too fast and it cuts too shallow a cross pattern. Something slow, eg cordless drill on low speed and a fast up/down motion, will work fine. Does't need long to work. Yes you should replace with new rings while out, and from there yes you should re-hone.

  • Like 1
  On 24/09/2020 at 6:42 PM, Dil-Dog said:

 

I know that you shouldnt trouble the rings and bores if you are making good compression

Expand  

If you pull it to pieces and the cylinder bores don't show much wear and the rings look good why touch that at all unless you are paying to do it right?

  On 24/09/2020 at 10:55 PM, phelbas said:

If you pull it to pieces and the cylinder bores don't show much wear and the rings look good why touch that at all unless you are paying to do it right?

Expand  

Actually, This ^.

Just because you pull it apart doesn't mean you automatically do anything. The only thing you have to do is carefully inspect and measure everything. If the bores are round and especially if there is no nasty lip at the top and especially especially if the hone marks are still visible, then doing anything to the bores is unjustified. You always assess what you have before deciding what you're going to do to it.

  On 24/09/2020 at 11:28 PM, GTSBoy said:

You always assess what you have before deciding what you're going to do to it.

Expand  

 

 

And then forget what you decided and mash the go button on that Nitto stroker kit.

  • Haha 1

 

  On 25/09/2020 at 1:07 AM, Unzipped Composites said:

And then forget what you decided and mash the go button on that Nitto stroker kit.

Expand  

what are you talking about.

PS if anyone wants 6 HKS step 2 2.8L H-beam rods I got from yahoo auctions on a whim, let me know. Cheap.

  On 25/09/2020 at 4:16 AM, phelbas said:

 

what are you talking about.

 

Expand  

 

Humorous reference to the natural tendency to completely blow the budget despite the intentions going into the build. 

  On 25/09/2020 at 5:13 AM, Unzipped Composites said:

 

Humorous reference to the natural tendency to completely blow the budget despite the intentions going into the build. 

Expand  

i was attempting my own humorous reference to accidentally purchasing hks h-beams (and a billet crank, which a workshop “lost”) 

hey, each to their own...but, if i'd picked up a 2nd hand unknown engine, I had it apart, and was rebuilding it to ensure it was fresh and ready to last for me, there's no way i'd be sticking with the rings that were in it; i'd replace them along with bearings, water pump, timing belt, anything else that might " look fine". A set of rings is like 200 bucks, a hone does effectively nothing to the bore size, and pulling out and dismantling the engine is one Fkton of work, as anyone that's ever done it knows, so replace them while it's all apart, if budget isn't the utmost concern.

  • Thanks 1
  On 25/09/2020 at 8:57 AM, Duncan said:

Are you putting a 2jz in a 350z for a cheap project?

4th time this week, thanks skid factory.

Expand  

Adam lz has put more Jz engines into cars then the skid Factory

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
    • Perfect! Thanks for this, both look like great options!
×
×
  • Create New...