Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,
i am building a 350z drift missile with a florida imported Aristo 2jz GTE VVTI


My partner and I are trying to make it as "budget friendly" as possible while still retaining reliability and decent performance. We have a build list of new parts such as top mount manifold, turbo, gaskets, studs, oil pump, water pump etc etc. 


So here is my question.... while the engine is out, we were planning on doing all the rotating assembly bearings and we were wondering If it would make sense that we pull the pistons out, clean it up, then replace all rings, then finally hone the cylinder bores with a honing pad/stone ourselves

I know that you shouldnt trouble the rings and bores if you are making good compression but if the engine is out... wouldnt it be a good idea? Is this too risky? i have seen a few people who have just got a hone and new rings and reused the stock rods and pistons but i would like to know if honing is something you can do your self and still achieve good results. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481218-engine-rebuild-question/
Share on other sites

EDIT: look i know that you  "CAN" do it your self and there is a few videos on youtube who show them selves at home with a drill and what not but i want to know if what they are doing is wrong and if they are just a set of bone heads. so yeah thats my question... lol ?

Yes, you can. The main issue is the drill speed too fast and it cuts too shallow a cross pattern. Something slow, eg cordless drill on low speed and a fast up/down motion, will work fine. Does't need long to work. Yes you should replace with new rings while out, and from there yes you should re-hone.

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, Dil-Dog said:

 

I know that you shouldnt trouble the rings and bores if you are making good compression

If you pull it to pieces and the cylinder bores don't show much wear and the rings look good why touch that at all unless you are paying to do it right?

31 minutes ago, phelbas said:

If you pull it to pieces and the cylinder bores don't show much wear and the rings look good why touch that at all unless you are paying to do it right?

Actually, This ^.

Just because you pull it apart doesn't mean you automatically do anything. The only thing you have to do is carefully inspect and measure everything. If the bores are round and especially if there is no nasty lip at the top and especially especially if the hone marks are still visible, then doing anything to the bores is unjustified. You always assess what you have before deciding what you're going to do to it.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

You always assess what you have before deciding what you're going to do to it.

 

 

And then forget what you decided and mash the go button on that Nitto stroker kit.

  • Haha 1
2 hours ago, Unzipped Composites said:

 

Humorous reference to the natural tendency to completely blow the budget despite the intentions going into the build. 

i was attempting my own humorous reference to accidentally purchasing hks h-beams (and a billet crank, which a workshop “lost”) 

hey, each to their own...but, if i'd picked up a 2nd hand unknown engine, I had it apart, and was rebuilding it to ensure it was fresh and ready to last for me, there's no way i'd be sticking with the rings that were in it; i'd replace them along with bearings, water pump, timing belt, anything else that might " look fine". A set of rings is like 200 bucks, a hone does effectively nothing to the bore size, and pulling out and dismantling the engine is one Fkton of work, as anyone that's ever done it knows, so replace them while it's all apart, if budget isn't the utmost concern.

  • Thanks 1
On 25/09/2020 at 6:57 PM, Duncan said:

Are you putting a 2jz in a 350z for a cheap project?

4th time this week, thanks skid factory.

Adam lz has put more Jz engines into cars then the skid Factory

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...