Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I'm wondering if its normal to have vastly different "knock level logged" values for both of the knock sensors. #1 sensor shows a value of 0 when I start the data log and randomly jumps up to 60 after a few seconds (under normal operation not a WOT pull) and the #2 sensor shows 235 when the data log is started and stays at that value the whole log. These values seem quite stray from each other and don't follow any trends compared to the "knock signal" values, but I'm looking for some input on this.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481673-haltech-knock-level-logged-values/
Share on other sites

Is this an Elite ?  If so the knock signal levels need to be setup with the onboard spectrogram to identify the correct frequency levels for knock for the individual engine. There is a YouTube video explaining about it.

  On 20/12/2020 at 7:08 AM, BK said:

Is this an Elite ?  If so the knock signal levels need to be setup with the onboard spectrogram to identify the correct frequency levels for knock for the individual engine. There is a YouTube video explaining about it.

Expand  

I was looking at that earlier I thought I would give it a try but I'm on a Platinum Pro

  On 20/12/2020 at 5:58 AM, GTSBoy said:

So, either the knock sensor(s) is/are shagged, or there is a metric f**kton of mechanical noise at one end of the engine.

Expand  

I swapped them around I've yet to start the motor but I will see if the values swap.

  On 21/12/2020 at 10:59 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I'm going to be honest here, I don't think the knock control for the Platinum Pro works properly, I've never been able to get it ready or log correctly.

Expand  

I feel the same. I dont trust it enough to tune with

  On 21/12/2020 at 10:59 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I'm going to be honest here, I don't think the knock control for the Platinum Pro works properly, I've never been able to get it ready or log correctly.

Expand  

What about the Elite ? I know Matt from Haltech has the video trying to explain how to set it up and implement it as mentioned. But after talking to a few of the Haltech tech supports they mentioned that basically no one turns on the knock control, so why have it ?

You had any success in this area ?

I can confirm, the knock control in the pro plug in is useless. It doesn't actually detect knock, all it does is detect noise. 

The knock control in the elite series is vastly improved and actually useful. 

There would be plenty of features that people don't turn on, it doesn't make it useless. 

I would imagine that a lot of tuners don't spend time setting it up as the customers are not prepared to spend the $$ on it. It's one of those things, if the tune is conservative and in the life of the car never sees any knock, then due to cost/benefit it doesn't get setup. 

  • Like 1
  On 22/12/2020 at 12:26 AM, BK said:

Haltech tech supports they mentioned that basically no one turns on the knock control, so why have it ?

Expand  

As @Murray_Calavera has said, no one wants to pay for it and also with the usage of E85 you tend to know when the motor knock.

Power will drop with more timing, where as with 98RON you tend to still make power with more timing however might be in the knock range already.

Thanks for the info guys, appreciate it. I had the timing at high rpm down to about 15* and it was still showing plenty of knock with 11.2 afrs, and race fuel. So I was getting a feeling that it couldn’t be right. 

  On 23/12/2020 at 9:50 PM, smart_garrett said:

Thanks for the info guys, appreciate it. I had the timing at high rpm down to about 15* and it was still showing plenty of knock with 11.2 afrs, and race fuel. So I was getting a feeling that it couldn’t be right. 

Expand  

Look at the spectrograph view, if turning down the timing has no visible change in the knock sensor (and you know the knock sensor signal is good) then it's probably calibrated wrong.

  On 25/12/2020 at 8:39 AM, joshuaho96 said:

Look at the spectrograph view, if turning down the timing has no visible change in the knock sensor (and you know the knock sensor signal is good) then it's probably calibrated wrong.

Expand  

The guy has a Platinum not Elite, so I don't believe he has the spectrogram like the Elite series does.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...