Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I reckon the labour to fix the fitment + fix scratches/chips and paint is gonna cost the same amount as buying a new front bumper... 

also if i get an OEM front bumper i think it would fix a lot of the issues 

 

the aftermarket bumper was bought by previous owner - everything was flush before i took the front bumper off to work on the car and washers came off (i think they were used to correct the fitment but was only a bandaid fix 😭)

 

thinking between these two if i ever replace the front bumper

https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-bumper/infiniti/infiniti-oem-ipl-g37-front-bumperfascia-p-7218.html

https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-bumper/infiniti/oem-g37-coupe-and-convertible-2008-2009-front-bumper-p-8406.html

 

20210214_141854.jpg

20210214_141834.jpg

20210117_164645.jpg20210117_164705.jpg20210117_164720.jpg20210117_164738.jpg20210117_164750.jpg20210117_164829.jpg20210117_164622.jpg

Edited by YouTRIPPIN?
13 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

It will only cost a little more to fix the existing bumper than to paint a brand new bumper. And you won't have to buy a new bumper.....

yea but the issue is every time im gonna take off the bumper the fitment is not gonna be right + the material of this isnt that great since its duraflex so its gonna have more issues with cracking in the future

 

i think my current one is this one - https://www.andysautosport.com/products/extreme_dimensions__113655.html

Edited by YouTRIPPIN?

Looks like you might have an IPL style front bar. Super hard to get and quite rare over here in aus. Itll cost you around 2.5k just to get one shipped here if you want the same style.

 

Either replace with an OEM one or take it to a body shop that can handle fibreglass and they'll fix it up to make it fit perfectly and repair/respray.

 

Probably looking at about 1k but still better than 2.5k + painting.

1 hour ago, DashyyPC said:

Looks like you might have an IPL style front bar. Super hard to get and quite rare over here in aus. Itll cost you around 2.5k just to get one shipped here if you want the same style.

 

Either replace with an OEM one or take it to a body shop that can handle fibreglass and they'll fix it up to make it fit perfectly and repair/respray.

 

Probably looking at about 1k but still better than 2.5k + painting.

na looks more like this https://www.andysautosport.com/products/extreme_dimensions__113526.html

but ye ill see what the quote would be - ive got an appointment with them to get my side skirts done, tried to install new ones but the previous owner used silicone to paste the current one all around 😢 and i wouldnt have the time/tools to clear it all completely 

 

image.png.bc2f0e09c46b75f35664e2f0a88eee2f.png

 

 

 

Edited by YouTRIPPIN?

Oh a LBW one. 

Same situation really. 

Vogue industries at the Gold Coast sell a full kit bit its about 10k haha

 

No a sedan one will not fit coupe.

50 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Besides the fact that they're all shit?

yes just wondering if the universal ones would fit 🤣

just need options since all the good lips are from america otherwise id have to get a custom one or just buy a cheap one off ebay thats usually like under 100 per pair for side skirts

 

Edited by YouTRIPPIN?
6 hours ago, YouTRIPPIN? said:

yes just wondering if the universal ones would fit 🤣

just need options since all the good lips are from america otherwise id have to get a custom one or just buy a cheap one off ebay thats usually like under 100 per pair for side skirts

 

Perhaps they fit but would they actually look worthwhile?

Honestly, what's wrong with trying to do the job properly and, as a result, once only?

2 hours ago, The Max said:

Perhaps they fit but would they actually look worthwhile?

Honestly, what's wrong with trying to do the job properly and, as a result, once only?

yea true... just looking for options 

asked EZ Splitters for a quote on shipping so hopefully they come through this time (they ignored my dm last month 😭)

2 hours ago, V35_Paul said:

Get it all fixed by some local guys.

Looks good as is just needs to be fixed 👍

i would but im dreading the fact that it will be annoying to take it off and on - and the chances of losing the fitment (like what happened when i took it off the first time)

 

also dont know how well the flush would be since it feels like the measurements of it is shorter - since theres gaps between the fender and the bumpers itself which was filled with silicone to cover it (shown in the pics above)

 

i like the look of this better tho its not as eye soring as my current one and looks more clean 🤣

 

image.png.508c32b22e09cb6cc0c35d567ee6dbac.png

Edited by YouTRIPPIN?

Get it fixed or try find one locally, To get a new one shipped from overseas would be really expensive. I have just tried to buy a R34 GTR bumper from Amayama and they will not ship it. They say it is an oversized item.

17 minutes ago, NZ-GTT said:

Get it fixed or try find one locally, To get a new one shipped from overseas would be really expensive. I have just tried to buy a R34 GTR bumper from Amayama and they will not ship it. They say it is an oversized item.

im already buying heaps of mods from the same store im buying from overseas so might as well chuck it in all in one order 

but yea understandable when i put the IPL bumper in the order before the shipping was 30-40% of the price but now im going stock which is x4 less than the IPL bumper 

 

i would check out the wrecking yards but i doubt theres any front bumpers intact 😐

Edited by YouTRIPPIN?

Unfortunately I'm looking for the rear bumper, I've seen plenty front ones for sale because so many people have installed the Nismo front one but the rear is a different story. I just got to be patient.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...