Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah it seems like the only legit twin setup is the G25-660s. Unless some tries a custom precision setup 5558 or 6062. 

Sad that twins are pretty much dead for now. Just something about seeing snails full of blades ready to scream under the bonnet.

Oh well. Maybe I'll go a billet RB36 with twin 6466s. 🤘

I actually ran the australian agent about a xona 9569 not long a go as a upgrade to a 6870 on a rb25/30 neo

He said keep the precision and just add a bit of gas as the xona be lucky to make more on a rb30

He said the precisions they sell are more reliable than the xonas.. Stated they where very hit and miss in reliability...he basically sold himself put of a $4500 deal as i would of pulled the trigger if he said otherwise

Edited by jet_r31
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Interesting, yeah I personally wouldn't swap from a 6870 to a Xona (or vice versa for that matter) - they are both similar enough that it's not going to be worth the money.

The reliability thing sounds odd, haven't heard much issue about them at all.  Is it definitely the Oz agent, or someone who can get Xona rotors but sell precision? Lol

I'd love to hear about any of them having failures if they're that common, as obviously they've caught my attention and so far looking at individuals experiences I've only seen Precision reliability issues (granted, that's probably partly tied to people just sending it with them) and people getting performance improvements going from Precision to Xona.  I've not seen anyone have any Xona failures anywhere yet, though they also are not used as much so it's hard to get a failure rate but I definitely don't want to be suggesting something that has any problems.

Like anything, any claims without proof or data should be taken with a huge grain of salt.

 

 

I can't recommend on size as at those power levels I have no experience with, but the only thing I can say is keep it divided/twin scroll..

You'll need all the help you can get to spool the karnt.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I can't recommend on size as at those power levels I have no experience with, but the only thing I can say is keep it divided/twin scroll..

You'll need all the help you can get to spool the karnt.

Fair call. Was thinking of staying with the smaller 1.12 T4 devided.  Sounds like the way to go.

  • 2 months later...
On 07/07/2021 at 6:54 PM, K_arlstrom said:

Garrett just launched a new disco potato! 🤯 Still prefer the simplicity of a single, but found it interesting enough to share with you.

GBC22-350 

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/garrett-boost-club-line-gbc22-350/?utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter&utm_campaign=clublineturbo

 

Screenshot_20210707-125235_Chrome.jpg

Man that would be killer setup for a 2.6. You'd hit full boost by 3500. Gearbox braker. I wonder if this is a new generation of turbos again.

I am also quite interested in these new Turbos. My goal is staying with the twins in order to avoid unnecessary attention and it seems like these would be powerwise close to the 2860-5 and spoolwise closer to the 2860-7. Unfortunetaly i think it will take some time untill  we see real world results.

On 5/6/2021 at 3:43 PM, khezz said:

Gen 2 7685.

Beast, in a manual you'll have no problem achieving 1100hp. My old 7175 went 1021rhhp 35psi through the auto. Currently have a gen1 7685 will be going onto the hub hopefully this month.

  • Like 1
On 14/07/2021 at 2:52 AM, klutched said:

Beast, in a manual you'll have no problem achieving 1100hp. My old 7175 went 1021rhhp 35psi through the auto. Currently have a gen1 7685 will be going onto the hub hopefully this month.

I hope so. I think it will come down to the skill of the tuner.

What's the rest of your setup?

Keep us posted with your results if you don't mind.

On 7/14/2021 at 5:34 PM, khezz said:

I hope so. I think it will come down to the skill of the tuner.

What's the rest of your setup?

Keep us posted with your results if you don't mind.

Yeah will do mate. Its a 26/30 3.4 stroker with a powerglide behind it. 

On 15/07/2021 at 12:59 PM, klutched said:

Yeah will do mate. Its a 26/30 3.4 stroker with a powerglide behind it. 

How do you find the 3.4? I was talked out of it at the time of my build and went 3.2 instead. Now I'm considering selling up and going billet 3.6

On 7/15/2021 at 4:12 PM, khezz said:

How do you find the 3.4? I was talked out of it at the time of my build and went 3.2 instead. Now I'm considering selling up and going billet 3.6

Its a torque monster, very hard to get it to hook up especially being rwd. In a gtr would be awesome. It probably needs a dry sump but so far its been happy with the wet sump. 

The 3.6 is a 3.4 with a few mm oversized bore right? 

It's both bore and stroke. Can only be done with billet block due to amount of meat that needs to be removed to accommodate the crank and pistons. I've yet to see one reviewed in any way but they use much wider bearings to make sure the extra side load won't chew them out. Sounds amazing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...