Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i couldnt for any reason get a picture of what has happened to me but I'm back under the knife again. short lived dream haha. directly under roughly 5 and 4 piston, the block has cracked on the intake manifold side. i was wondering if anyone has experienced this on the intake side? i know they are known to crack between the water jackets on the exhaust side but this seems stange. strange things and me is very normal tho soooo...... JB weld the crap out of it or what mates? it is creating the car to over heat thats how this problem arose. i always noticed a tiny coolant leak in my garage from the very first time i started this motor. i took my intake manifold off and resealed it because i thought i was leaking on one of my coolant ports in my manifold... after some abuse the leak has gotten worse. the rad seems to pressurize extremely quick. i really dont care to much about this motor anymore do you mates think i will have luck with jb weld or something and let her settle then send?

 

 

Edited by MoMnDadGTR
cant type

it doesnt leak unless the rad pressurizes fyi. once i had the car back together i started it for 5 seconds then quickly jumped out and shut it off to see the leak/crack. doesnt take long to start dripping like a average bloody nose.

 

Not having fixed one before my advice is invalid but if it was mine I would grind it back a bit with a die grinder and try and pack the JB Weld slightly into it a bit.  Let it dry, grind it back, squirt of paint and send it!

  • Like 2
On 07/04/2022 at 3:17 AM, GTSBoy said:

With a crack on the inlet side, the block is so much more likely to fail on the other side if you push the power levels much. So.....just hold your breath.

Got that right mate. Every time I start the car I hold my breathe. At first I thought it was my intake gasket so pulled that all off yesterday to do it again today to fix the crack. My rad seems to be pressurizing extemely quick is this normal? I started the car this morning from dead cold start for 4 seconds just to confirm the leak( needs a bit of pressure to leak) and my rad had pressure like mad after 4 seconds of running

This was the smalll crack. I feel like this wasn’t my over heating issues tho.  It would over heat extremely fast and rad seemed to pressurize way to quick when trying to bleed...

271F4A5A-753A-4324-9C9F-EFBAEC074700.jpeg

454C0C5E-E4F9-46F5-BC2E-3D3A77916BB8.jpeg

129E8A40-59FB-4640-955B-4184A10506F8.jpeg

maybe a small leak on the intake manifold as well where pressure was sneaking into the coolant system. i could hear a wierd sound i never heard before like it had individual throttle bodies naturally aspirated.  hard to describe the sound. like a deep waap sound that was never there ever. then followed by over heat. i think the leak was always there on block(crack). i ditched the metal intake gasket and went with a paper one with rtv on each side. gunna let everything sit till tomorow and try it again lol. what a shit show.

 

On 08/04/2022 at 12:03 AM, MoMnDadGTR said:

Got that right mate. Every time I start the car I hold my breathe. At first I thought it was my intake gasket so pulled that all off yesterday to do it again today to fix the crack. My rad seems to be pressurizing extemely quick is this normal? I started the car this morning from dead cold start for 4 seconds just to confirm the leak( needs a bit of pressure to leak) and my rad had pressure like mad after 4 seconds of running

Do you have a pressure sensor in the radiator?

Bummer mate.

This stuff is pretty amazing. Have used it to seal a radiator and a water pump on old bangers.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SEALWEL-COOLING-SYSTEM-SEALER-CLEANER-SEALS-RADIATORS-HEADS-GASKETS-2xCUBES-/291625153239

 

i would be inclined to chuck some in.

On 08/04/2022 at 5:04 AM, Ben C34 said:

Bummer mate.

This stuff is pretty amazing. Have used it to seal a radiator and a water pump on old bangers.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SEALWEL-COOLING-SYSTEM-SEALER-CLEANER-SEALS-RADIATORS-HEADS-GASKETS-2xCUBES-/291625153239

 

i would be inclined to chuck some in.

cheers chap. i ordered some but dont know if i can wait 2 weeks to try this bitch lol. shipping from australia takes some time these days for what ever reason. any where really about 2 weeks wait for me. 

 

im about 3 hours away from filling it up with fluid and trying it out again for the 73rd time. if it doesnt over heat or leak ill be happier than pig dung. if she over heats ill be pulling the plug on this engine and getting a prp rb30 i think, if its gunna go wrong it will for me hahah so i gotta go with something stronger. ive debating doing the jz swap a few times now...

 

well fired her up and the jb weld did its job great! only to force a bunch of coolant into cylinder 6 and 5.....so yeah im bunged for now and will confirm whats wrong. im guessing head gasket or cracked internally block. oh well.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...