Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR battery options

MrStabby

By MrStabby,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

I find that the 370CCA NRMA 2383 batteries don't seem to last very long considering that most of the time the battery is isolated as the car only gets intermittent use. Any suggestions? Is there a good lithium option? Am I just imagining the short life or is 370CCA a bit small?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483707-r32-gtr-battery-options/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I suggest the biggest Century battery that fits in the space. I can't remember exactly which one I put in there. I think it's the 430CCA one. I find Century more trustworthy than most other options available in Australia.

I also suggest that you either leave a solar panel charger on it, or a good float charger, if it is really left idle most of the time.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That might be the NS40ZX (410 CCA) which is not listed on Century's website any more. I've sent them a message to ask if its been discontinued. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/car-batteries

The NS40Z is the 330CCA version, which is 'D' polarity (ie positive on the left, and you install it 'backwards') and small post. They still have the NS40ZLX MF ('C' polarity version @ 410 CCA).

There are a few web listings of the NS40ZX around so i'll see if i can find one.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ended up getting a NS40ZLX after confirming the cables just reach by using an old NS40ZL from the Stagea. The bonnet is still well clear of the positive terminal, so only slightly ghetto.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Do what Gtsboy suggested though...keep the battery on a trickle charge.  I use an Oddyssey PC925MJT in my R33 and it also [these days] gets intermittent use.  But - so far - my battery has lasted 5 years cos its always hooked up to a solar panel and PR1210L regulator.  I also wired in a blocking diode to stop night time discharge.  I have a plug I use under the car and so every time I park it, I plug the solar lead into the car.  The panel doesn't have to be a big one, a 5 to 10 watt unit will easily do the job.  I use the same type of setup on my bikes, my excavator, and my mini dumper.  The dumper has a Lister 2 cylinder diesel motor which has no alternator or generator so the solar setup was almost essential.

Before I did this, I was going through batteries every 12 to 18 months.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

I have a battery isolator as well, but a battery just sitting there slowly fades away, esp. in the cooler months.

What happens is the battery plates calcify, this then stops the chemical reaction needed for effective charging and recharging.

By trickle charging you stop plate calcification.

  • Like 1
junkie Mentor

junkie

Posted
Posted (edited)

I would recommend Panasonic OEM style batteries for any Nissan. Decent prices and three year warranty for private use.

Something like this would fit a R32 and provide decent CCA, the R version should be right polarity too: https://www.everybattery.com.au/online/product/n-60b24rje/

Edited by junkie
Spelling fail
  • Like 1
Robzilla32 Mentor

Robzilla32

Posted
Posted
On 04/06/2022 at 8:21 AM, blind_elk said:

Autobarn has a Supercharge brand, which has a NS40 equiv (MF40B20L), at 390 CCA.

Two things:

1. I have had two Supercharge batteries in the GT-R and they have not lasted very long

2. Is there a rule of thumb regarding how long a battery should be on a trickle charger? Maybe, possibly related to point #1.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 6/4/2022 at 9:39 PM, Robzilla32 said:

2. Is there a rule of thumb regarding how long a battery should be on a trickle charger? Maybe, possibly related to point #1.

I've bought a ctek mxs 5.0 (mentioned by BK above, $129 delivered from ebay) and the instruction video says you can leave it connected for extended periods of time. So, refer to vendor doco, but as trident says seems like any good one should be able to be left connected indefinitely.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Intercooler Choice

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
    • GTSBoy
      RB26 swapped gtst

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.
    • r33.antwone
      RB26 swapped gtst

      By r33.antwone · Posted

      that’s the thing i’m on ID1050s and haltech not getting power due to the injector resistor 
    • Toilet Goblin
      Intercooler Choice

      By Toilet Goblin · Posted

      ahh okay cheers, i was thinking of just going for the m073, think m079 would be way too overkill considering they are same size. 
    • GTSBoy
      HK Premier with plans for slight mods, but keeping clean and simple

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
×
×
  • Create New...