Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

New to the site and getting to know people along the way.  Not that mechanical savvy but willing to learn as I go.

Recently purchased a 1999 R34 GTV that we are going to turbo.  Have been looking at the Haltch Plug & Play in the Platinum Series and the Elite series.  Only issue is they are supported for manual transmission only.

For those with automatic transmission what options did you go for in the Haltech range....or is there a work around for it.

Looking forward to see what people suggest.  Thanks in advance!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483778-haltech-plug-play-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

On 6/19/2022 at 7:44 PM, R34GTV said:

Haha that’s what my partner said also. Not keen on that option lol

It is by far the best thing you can do.

You pretty much have to, by the way. I can explain it in longer words if you like, but put the manual conversion BEFORE you consider a turbo kit in terms of "Things to do".

Haltech can control the auto gearbox now, its just the time it takes to program the logic and get it right. This is no small job as its something that most people have not done yet.
On a mates r34 gt auto we just went with a nistune board flashed gtt firmware and have a adjusted it with no issues. There was a bit of wiring to do with diodes and adding for boost solenoid.

  • Thanks 1

Plug and play was the requirement here. I don't know if the GTV gets the the turbo gearbox or the N/A gearbox. It'd matter, because a Nistune would/could work if it used the turbo auto box.

All of this thinking should be dedicated to going manual though. Including all of the ECU budget and the turbo budget.

  • Like 1
On 6/20/2022 at 4:26 PM, Kinkstaah said:

Plug and play was the requirement here. I don't know if the GTV gets the the turbo gearbox or the N/A gearbox. It'd matter, because a Nistune would/could work if it used the turbo auto box.

All of this thinking should be dedicated to going manual though. Including all of the ECU budget and the turbo budget.

Just another option.
Nothing is ever plug and play. Always something to wire in and most people don't have the skill/knowledge to undertake the job.

 

  • Like 1

This is what haltech has come back with. It can be done. Just requires some fiddling about. 
 

Once we get all our bits for the GTV and firstly finish off our other car as it’s currently getting upgraded too with more go fast bits will keep you posted with the build. But the way it’s going the GTV might get done before the other car haha. 

7C557547-6EE5-4F77-8B29-1BC0D3038A1D.jpeg

  • Like 1

It is relatively* straightforward. I have had to wire the standalone TCM and if you look at the modules, all of the wires that go into the NA's standalone TCM are labelled the same as the ones that go into the GTT's ecu. Same number of pins, same labels on all of them. As far as the wiring outputs and inputs go, they are the same for the GTT and the GT.

In my example I was wiring them into a dedicated transmission controller that was external to the engine ECU, but as Haltech say it would not be impossible to wire them into an aftermarket engine ECU that has these outputs. That said, you can wire the NA auto into a GTT ECU and Nistune it given you do not have huge power goals.

And again, all that said, all this time, effort, money and such is a waste because the car is about twice as enjoyable with a manual in it. You will regret spending the money and time on the auto. I promise. I'm only saying it now so I can say I told you so later. I need you to know this, so you will be like "fk, should have listened to that guy"

  • Like 1
On 21/6/2022 at 9:12 AM, Kinkstaah said:

It is relatively* straightforward. I have had to wire the standalone TCM and if you look at the modules, all of the wires that go into the NA's standalone TCM are labelled the same as the ones that go into the GTT's ecu. Same number of pins, same labels on all of them. As far as the wiring outputs and inputs go, they are the same for the GTT and the GT.

In my example I was wiring them into a dedicated transmission controller that was external to the engine ECU, but as Haltech say it would not be impossible to wire them into an aftermarket engine ECU that has these outputs. That said, you can wire the NA auto into a GTT ECU and Nistune it given you do not have huge power goals.

And again, all that said, all this time, effort, money and such is a waste because the car is about twice as enjoyable with a manual in it. You will regret spending the money and time on the auto. I promise. I'm only saying it now so I can say I told you so later. I need you to know this, so you will be like "fk, should have listened to that guy"

I appreciate your knowledge and opinion. 🙂

Not sure how crazy you want to go with the build, but you could pop in a DCT box or ZF box from a BMW to keep it auto then run a GCU wired back into the Kebabtech.

This is what you end up with, insanely good, no knocks/bumps like a manual sequential box and if you want you can actually setup a transbrake:

 

  • Like 2
On 20/6/2022 at 2:30 PM, r32-25t said:

Jem have made an auto transmission work with a haltech, not sure if it was a nexus or an elite but it can be done 

They did my Stagea with the tiptronic auto and I can say it runs very well and shifts great

On 22/6/2022 at 11:52 PM, RBW49N said:

They did my Stagea with the tiptronic auto and I can say it runs very well and shifts great

That is awesome to hear. Did they use the original ecu along with the new one. Or just new one all together and wired it up to the auto box?

On 23/6/2022 at 7:22 AM, R34GTV said:

That is awesome to hear. Did they use the original ecu along with the new one. Or just new one all together and wired it up to the auto box?

The original ecu was completely removed and a Haltech elite 2500 was put in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...