Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 7/24/2022 at 9:34 AM, joshuaho96 said:

Running rich tends to cause the cat to overheat.

Not in any meaningful way. Face it, cruising "rich" puts far less heat into the cat than running it under high load rich - and they always run very rich under high load.

There are so many better solutions here. All of them starting with installing something useful. A wideband, for one. An aftermarket ECU, for another. I just wish we weren't facing another generation of broke arse people buying GTRs without the f**king financial wherewithal to do what needs to be done and instead trying to drag them around on the bones of their arse, just because they spent their last $75k on a 30 year old Datsun.

  • Like 1
On 7/23/2022 at 6:15 PM, GTSBoy said:

Not in any meaningful way. Face it, cruising "rich" puts far less heat into the cat than running it under high load rich - and they always run very rich under high load.

There are so many better solutions here. All of them starting with installing something useful. A wideband, for one. An aftermarket ECU, for another. I just wish we weren't facing another generation of broke arse people buying GTRs without the f**king financial wherewithal to do what needs to be done and instead trying to drag them around on the bones of their arse, just because they spent their last $75k on a 30 year old Datsun.

I don't disagree, my dad's Camry survived years with a bad O2 sensor but I still don't recommend running it that way. I do agree these cars are insanely expensive to fix up after decades of deferred maintenance and anyone not prepared for that should really look into getting something else.

On 23/07/2022 at 9:07 PM, TXSquirrel said:

There are 2 different GT2860R, do you know which one you have?  Or a part number?

Garrett 836026-5005S, GT2860R Turbo rated for 250-360hk i belive it is. I will double check.

 

Thanks😃

On 24/07/2022 at 3:15 AM, GTSBoy said:

Not in any meaningful way. Face it, cruising "rich" puts far less heat into the cat than running it under high load rich - and they always run very rich under high load.

There are so many better solutions here. All of them starting with installing something useful. A wideband, for one. An aftermarket ECU, for another. I just wish we weren't facing another generation of broke arse people buying GTRs without the f**king financial wherewithal to do what needs to be done and instead trying to drag them around on the bones of their arse, just because they spent their last $75k on a 30 year old Datsun.

Thank you. 

I bought thus GTR just because i wanted to do a full maintenance on it. The engine is new built first of all.

But i also have an s15 which i have done a fully built sr20, whole chassie/every single bolt and part except inner roof has been removed. Im soon done with my s15 and trying to keep the GTR as stock as possible and make it like new again. Thats why i wanted a stock ecu. My s15 is everything but stock haha

On 14/07/2022 at 11:27 PM, Duncan said:

I've never heard of any differences in the car side wiring between all 32 GTRs, so any ECU will fit and work.

It would help to post full part numbers if you want input, rather than people having to guess/research if they want to help

Garrett 836026-5005S, GT2860R Turbo. Rated for 250-360hk, but i will double check this.

aftermarket ecu will be the way to go anyway, it feels like there is to many gray zones here 

So you bought -5 turbos, no grey zone about it. Pretty far from standard size turbos, as now at a minimum you'll need bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors and completely retune the car obviously with a non standard ECU.

Unfortunately the seller has given you bad advice about those turbos. They are a direct physical fit (potential oil drain and oil lines issues but everything else should be OK), but they are a lot larger than standard.

In addition to what BK said you also need either nismo or z32 air flow meters if the new ECU doesn't run MAP sensor. Those turbos flow enough that even at factory boost you will fall off the standard maps.

On 25/07/2022 at 11:26 AM, BK said:

And -5's are pretty laggy on the street with a 2.6 which is why -7 and -9 exist.

God damn are they fun when they do kick in though!!  Mine had -5's when I first got it and when it hits boost (probably at around 4500-500 rpm the thing felt like it was in Startrek!  Fast as hell yet slow as hell until you got there....

On 25/07/2022 at 1:12 PM, Shoota_77 said:

God damn are they fun when they do kick in though!!  Mine had -5's when I first got it and when it hits boost (probably at around 4500-500 rpm the thing felt like it was in Startrek!  Fast as hell yet slow as hell until you got there....

Yeah on the strip they're OK, you can squeeze a 10 out of them on pump fuel.

On 7/25/2022 at 1:56 AM, BK said:

So you bought -5 turbos, no grey zone about it. Pretty far from standard size turbos, as now at a minimum you'll need bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors and completely retune the car obviously with a 

Yeah, i confirmed its -5. So running standard boost and standard power with stock injectors and pump on these wont be an option? F##k me

I have the 2 old one still here. 2 hks turbos i belive are gt25, cant find anything about them and the identification label are hard to read. Maybe sell the -5 new turbos and send these ones in for rebuild and fit them instead?

20220723_105805.jpg

20220723_105812.jpg

Edited by timmy94
On 25/07/2022 at 2:09 AM, Duncan said:

Unfortunately the seller has given you bad advice about those turbos. They are a direct physical fit (potential oil drain and oil lines issues but everything else should be OK), but they are a lot larger than standard.

In addition to what BK said you also need either nismo or z32 air flow meters if the new ECU doesn't run MAP sensor. Those turbos flow enough that even at factory boost you will fall off the standard maps.

So i guess i have to ask now. What do you recommend? Sell these turbos and put the old ones gt25 back? Since i dont have an ecu now and i will send the r33 ecu back i guess i will get an older version of LINK G4 or something

Interesting they were not stock turbos in the first place. I guess you may not know much about the history of the car but it is possible the tune on the old ECU was not factory.

The tags read

UH 60539

431876 45

but unfortunately I have no idea what that means.

Had the old turbos failed or were you just replacing them? If they failed, rebuilding them turbos with steel wheels would get you going again. The -5 you bought are about the biggest turbos you would consider outside drag racing etc but are not impossible for street use.  If you go -5 you might as well buy a tunable ECU (and fuel pump, injectors and either MAP sensor or z32 air flow meters) because they will never run well on the factory computer, even with very low boost (they are larger, so they move more air than the standard ones at the same boost level).

  • Like 1

Dose Pipe advice:

  • Throw stock ECU into bin
  • Throw stock AFMs into bin
  • Throw stock O2s into bin
  • Throw twin turbos into the bin (optional)
  • Buy Haltech Elite ECU
  • Buy Haltech Motorsport MAP sensor
  • Buy Haltech canbus wideband
  • Buy twin scroll modern single turbo, and twin scroll manifold (optional)
  • Install Haltech, wideband closed loop O2 correction, enjoy car.
  • Like 1
On 7/26/2022 at 8:17 AM, Duncan said:

Interesting they were not stock turbos in the first place. I guess you may not know much about the history of the car but it is possible the tune on the old ECU was not factory.

The tags read

UH 60539

431876 45

but unfortunately I have no idea what that means.

Had the old turbos failed or were you just replacing them? If they failed, rebuilding them turbos with steel wheels would get you going again. The -5 you bought are about the biggest turbos you would consider outside drag racing etc but are not impossible for street use.  If you go -5 you might as well buy a tunable ECU (and fuel pump, injectors and either MAP sensor or z32 air flow meters) because they will never run well on the factory computer, even with very low boost (they are larger, so they move more air than the standard ones at the same boost level).

They guy who bought the car in first place had issues with the engine. The seller had told him that there were no oil restrictors to the turbos and they had too much oil and that caused oil leak and other issues. But we found out that the engine was bad. The engine had alot of crankcase vent. I helped this guy to do some leakdown tests etc and we found out that the compression were bad. So i helped him to get the engine out and we saw that the engine was bad. Bought new bearings, pistons, crankcollar, rods etc and got the engine completly rebuild and also he bought these 2 new turbos (Gt2860-5). After this the car was just sitting for a few years until now when i bought it from him. 
I dont know if the HKS turbos are bad or not. They probably had to much oil cause there were no oil restrictor as recommended but they were running on low boost until we found out that the engine was bad. There are not much play in them but i dont know what the limit are for these.
Maybe some cleaning would be enough. I could send them to someone so they could check them for me. 

But these turbos should work good on standard injectors, fuel pump etc? I will try to fix an aftermarket ecu. 

On 26/07/2022 at 5:56 PM, GTSBoy said:

You've changed man.

It's to keep @Duncan from appearing to have sand in his taco when I mention throwing twins in the bin 😅

  • Haha 1
On 26/07/2022 at 3:21 PM, timmy94 said:

Yeah, i confirmed its -5. So running standard boost and standard power with stock injectors and pump on these wont be an option? F##k me

I have the 2 old one still here. 2 hks turbos i belive are gt25, cant find anything about them and the identification label are hard to read. Maybe sell the -5 new turbos and send these ones in for rebuild and fit them instead?

20220723_105805.jpg

20220723_105812.jpg

Mate as you already have the -5, just go with them. At least they are new. Go run 1.5bar and report back if you like them

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...