Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GT-R model year differences on ecu


Recommended Posts

On 7/26/2022 at 12:29 PM, BK said:

Mate as you already have the -5, just go with them. At least they are new. Go run 1.5bar and report back if you like them

well, i guess if i run with these turbos on 1.5bar i will have other problems.. like the fuel system as someone mentioned. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Upgrade in turbos goes hand in hand with supporting mods like a fuel system when moving away from a factory car. It’s how it is.

These cars cost ALOT! Open that wallet and watch the cash fly away.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 25/07/2022 at 9:26 AM, BK said:

So you bought -5 turbos, no grey zone about it. Pretty far from standard size turbos, as now at a minimum you'll need bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors and completely retune the car obviously with a non standard ECU.

As I've already mentioned, keep these turbos you NEED to do this. Not optional, need to.

For some reason it sounds like you still think you can keep these turbos based around everything else completely factory.

Ain't gonna happen

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 27/07/2022 at 5:19 AM, Piggaz said:

Upgrade in turbos goes hand in hand with supporting mods like a fuel system when moving away from a factory car. It’s how it is.

These cars cost ALOT! Open that wallet and watch the cash fly away.

Last time I remember seeing on here you'd spent money we were still using Pounds....  😁😁  You still playing or what?  Says me who hasn't driven a GT-R for ten years.....  Fuel was $1/L last time I put fuel in it....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/26/2022 at 12:29 PM, BK said:

Mate as you already have the -5, just go with them. At least they are new. Go run 1.5bar and report back if you like them

I will try to change them to a smaller refurbished or new ones from a local store or something. It's a bit stupid to run this big turbos when im only want to run factory power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 27/07/2022 at 4:49 PM, timmy94 said:

I will try to change them to a smaller refurbished or new ones from a local store or something. It's a bit stupid to run this big turbos when im only want to run factory power.

Dont do it, a factory power GTR is shit. No really- it is really, really shit. None of us bought a GTR to run the standard 160 -170kw at the wheel factory power output.

GTR comes alive at 300kw at wheels and up, which you me is where they should've been released at.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/27/2022 at 11:04 AM, BK said:

Factory power GTR is shit. No really- it is really, really shit. None of us bought a GTR to run the standard 160 -170kw at the wheel factory power output.

GTR comes alive at 300kw at wheels and up, which you me is where they should've been released at.

Okey. so how far can you go on these Rb26 engines safetly? Stock head and bottom. ( There are new rods, pisonts ( eagle and cp), crankcollar etc but do not want to push anything. I talked to a tuner who told me that these turbos Gt2860-R are great for street use and have fast spool on lower boost. I guess i could run these anyway and go for a bit more power then.

I have a link G4 ecu from a R33 GT-R, this one should work? I talked to link but they  couldnt confirm it, so i checked the pinouts with the link g4 software which only have a general pinout label for GT-Rs so i belive they are the same for r32 and r33..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Theyll take 300-330kw at the wheels without breaking a sweat, most of us have pushed standard engines well past that

any aftermarket ecu that works on a 33 will work on a 32 and vice versa 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/27/2022 at 11:31 AM, r32-25t said:

Theyll take 300-330kw at the wheels without breaking a sweat, most of us have pushed standard engines well past that

any aftermarket ecu that works on a 33 will work on a 32 and vice versa 

Okey, thank you. 

Well then i will take a closer look at this ecu. $500 is pretty cheap compared to a new one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 27/07/2022 at 7:55 PM, timmy94 said:

Okey, thank you. 

Well then i will take a closer look at this ecu. $500 is pretty cheap compared to a new one.

.

On 27/07/2022 at 6:39 PM, timmy94 said:

Okey. so how far can you go on these Rb26 engines safetly? Stock head and bottom. ( There are new rods, pisonts ( eagle and cp), crankcollar etc but do not want to push anything. I talked to a tuner who told me that these turbos Gt2860-R are great for street use and have fast spool on lower boost. I guess i could run these anyway and go for a bit more power then.

I have a link G4 ecu from a R33 GT-R, this one should work? I talked to link but they  couldnt confirm it, so i checked the pinouts with the link g4 software which only have a general pinout label for GT-Rs so i belive they are the same for r32 and r33..

My R33 is 330kw / 450hp at wheels on pump unleaded - completely unopened long engine. Basically fuel pump, 700cc injectors, Z32 AFMs, adjustable cam gears and 22psi boost on the far outdated Power FC with ball bearing HKS GT-SS turbos. (-9 Garrett equivalent)

Runs mid 11s at around 118 -120mph and is a motorkhana weapon.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/27/2022 at 1:27 PM, BK said:

Forgot add decent 3.5 inch exhaust and 100mm intercooler.

Okok.

Well there is some kind of 3" or 3.5" exhaust with 5" blitz muffler on. Intercooler is standard on mine, as well as bov etc..

 

How does that power fc work? And trigger upgrade, isnt that necessary?

I talked to the guy with the G4 Link, i could get it for 450 instead of 500, seems fair for that ecu?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apexi Power FC is just a full replacement ECU we all used 15 - 20 years ago, allowing boost control, fuel and ignition tuning. They work well if you dont need anything outside of what they can do, and is why that car is still on one. On the single turbo cars with 4 bar MAP sensors, flex fuel, crank triggers and custom sensors I'm on the Haltech Elites.

Link G4 will be fine for what you want and will fit in factory location. No you won't NEED a trigger kit even though they are better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/27/2022 at 2:05 PM, BK said:

Apexi Power FC is just a full replacement ECU we all used 15 - 20 years ago, allowing boost control, fuel and ignition tuning. They work well if you dont need anything outside of what they can do, and is why that car is still on one. On the single turbo cars with 4 bar MAP sensors, flex fuel, crank triggers and custom sensors I'm on the Haltech Elites.

Link G4 will be fine for what you want and will fit in factory location. No you won't NEED a trigger kit even though they are better.

Yes i know its replacement ecu but ive heard that some verisions of those were not good at all. Was just curious what you thought about them

Thanks 😄

 

The g4 card.

 

 

 

Screenshot_20220727-141818_Samsung Internet.jpg

Screenshot_20220727-141828_Samsung Internet.jpg

Insprut-Bensin-Styrenhet.webp

Edited by timmy94
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The tuner who told you GT2860R has fast spool on low boost was referring to -7.  Both -5 and -7 are GT2860R, but they are at the opposite end of capacity. 

If the HKS that came off have no shaft play nor oil leak, why not put them back on?  A pair of HKS oil restrictor cost little.  Perhaps send an email to HKS, if lucky they may be able to decipher the part number.  If they are really the GT25 series, then they are the streetable turbo you are looking for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/27/2022 at 4:45 PM, TXSquirrel said:

The tuner who told you GT2860R has fast spool on low boost was referring to -7.  Both -5 and -7 are GT2860R, but they are at the opposite end of capacity. 

If the HKS that came off have no shaft play nor oil leak, why not put them back on?  A pair of HKS oil restrictor cost little.  Perhaps send an email to HKS, if lucky they may be able to decipher the part number.  If they are really the GT25 series, then they are the streetable turbo you are looking for.

I think i was clear about -5, but idk..

 

Hks couldnt identify them by the plate.. still figuring out which ones it is. It has a little play in shaft but idk whats accepteble cause all turbos seems to have a bit of play when there is no oil pressure. There is no chafings in the housings..

Ok. So its either stick with these turbo run 300kw, new injectors and pump + link ecu

Or

Send the hks ones for service check and put link ecu on the car and dont bother of anything else. I guess the link ecu is a good option either way

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes the Link is a good option no matter which turbo you end up.  With the -5 it will be more involved than just injectors and pump.  As others mentioned you also need new sensors to measure air flow, either MAP or MAF.  There are many fuel pumps available, but figuring out how you want to setup the wiring to supply the pump is another level of headache.  You can find plenty of discussion on that here.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/27/2022 at 6:04 PM, TXSquirrel said:

Yes the Link is a good option no matter which turbo you end up.  With the -5 it will be more involved than just injectors and pump.  As others mentioned you also need new sensors to measure air flow, either MAP or MAF.  There are many fuel pumps available, but figuring out how you want to setup the wiring to supply the pump is another level of headache.  You can find plenty of discussion on that here.

Okey. Its the headache i want to skip on this build. Just want as simple build as possible  so i can drive around the street buy some ice cream, do some roadtrips and just enjoy the car as it is. A bit more power wouldnt hurt but nothing more too fancy shit here, since the Silvia S15 went a bit crazy.

 

I will try to read through the forum as much as possible. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/27/2022 at 9:38 AM, timmy94 said:

Okey. Its the headache i want to skip on this build. Just want as simple build as possible  so i can drive around the street buy some ice cream, do some roadtrips and just enjoy the car as it is. A bit more power wouldnt hurt but nothing more too fancy shit here, since the Silvia S15 went a bit crazy.

 

I will try to read through the forum as much as possible. 

I am skeptical that your HKS turbos are the Garretts they rebranded for a while. If you want a "simple" turbo I recommend the GT2860R-7. Nismo resells these turbos as the R1 turbo kit, they have released an R3 turbo which supposedly yields slightly better response. These were the ones used in the R34 N1 cars which will do around 450-500 crank hp. The only turbo I know of that is smaller than these N1 turbos is the HKS GTIII-SS. It is a journal bearing Mitsubishi turbo so nothing special.

If you want the absolute simplest solution then stock ECU + R34 stock ceramic turbos are my recommendation. No tuning required at that point.

Edited by joshuaho96
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's worth noting that any tunable ECU will do what you need, but the PowerFC and Link G4 are direct plug in, while others like Haltech Elite will require custom wiring or an adapter at extra cost. Either way, the cost of tuning will be the same or more than the cost of the ECU, so you should find a tuner you trust first, and then buy the ECU they are familiar with.

PowerFC is very suitable for low-mid power like you are talking about, plug in and drive off, and very quick to tune because there are less parameters than more modern ECUs.

The problem with where you are right now is you are trying to work out a way forward based on what you have on your bench, rather than having a target power and buying the right parts to hit that. Any turbo more than about 10% bigger than standard requires many additional parts (and costs add up quickly).

If you are looking for a pretty much standard experience without unnecessary cost, I'd be getting the HKS turbos checked and putting them back on with a standard ECU, and run standard boost. Anything other path will be 10x or more the cost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any recommendations on a decent replacement manifold that doesnt break the bank or require additional mods for the stock turbo setup? I figure if I'm going to pull the manifold off anyway to fix the studs might as well replace it. 
    • So I checked the turbo out today. Very minimum play at all just enough for the oil to take up when it's running. I did find an exhaust leak at the manifold. 1 stud all the way in the front is missing and the one all the way in the back is broken off. Front has visible signs of an exhaust leak. I'll fix that soon but that's not my problem still.  I also found that the nipple coming off the turbo had the hose capped off and a hose ran from the j-pipe by the bov going to the wastegate. I removed that hose and capped that nipple and put the turbo nipple hose back on the wastegate.  There was a ton of oil residue all through the charge side of the intercooler piping going to the throttle bodg. I'm thinking that's from the pcv. Doesn't seem to be coming from the turbo that was all clean on the pipes side.  Haven't had a chance to check fuel pressure yet, haven't had time been having to pull a lot of doubles at work. I did pick up some carb cleaner to clean the iacv but wanted to make sure I had a fresh gasket in case the old one rips when I pull it off.  I'm waiting on a MAF that was supposed to be here today but delayed to Monday. Have a double Monday and Friday and work all of next weekend so going to try to find some time in the middle of the week to try that out. Did about a 10m trip around the block today and towards the end the issues were coming back. Fingers crossed on this MAF but if not just going to throw a fuel pressure gauge in and see where I'm at.  Did notice today that I can definitely hear the injectors pulsing. Very audible clicking coming from them. Assuming that's normal? Should also mean CAS is functioning somewhat properly. After it warmed up when I started it the intermittent misfires came in again. Did start doing that before it was fully warmed up. 
    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
×
×
  • Create New...