NZ R33 Long Term Build

[MBS206]

8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Bah. I still design my stuff to handle more than the expected minima.

I can tell you're not a software engineer, where they design to 90% of the expectation and wait for the customers to find the broken 10% for them

 

Back at the jap vs aus though, again, it's like going from race track A to race track B.

 

spring rates, dampeners, roll bars, alignments, they all change.

what's awesome at track A might be awesome at B, or good, or absolutely woeful.

 

I think the Jap stuff you'd call shit only if after a short distance on AU roads, as it's rougher, the dampeners explode, but because they don't handle as well as expected as the tune of the suspension isn't suited to our roads doesn't make them shit.

[DaymoR32]

On 10/7/2023 at 8:26 AM, R3N3 said:

ECU:

Haltech have released new firmware for the Elite ECU and they have a new MAP prediction for tuning idle not sure if I explained that right? Anyway, idle is now amazing and so smooth.

 

Was your car already tuned on transient throttle?

Is it as simple as just enabling the map prediction button like it says on this guide? - https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/fuel-film-model-map-prediction

Or do i have to input values and stuff? (i'm a complete novice, so if its just clicking a button i might give it a whirl)

[R3N3]

12 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:

Was your car already tuned on transient throttle?

Is it as simple as just enabling the map prediction button like it says on this guide? - https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/fuel-film-model-map-prediction

Or do i have to input values and stuff? (i'm a complete novice, so if its just clicking a button i might give it a whirl)

I may have done it wrong but I just set it as a turbocharged vehicle (in the general settings), enabled the map prediction and disabled the old one. Although I could be wrong..

I saw haltech have released this on their support site, which may help:

https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/fuel-film-model-map-prediction

otherwise our local haltech support @Dose Pipe Sutututu can clarify..

[DaymoR32]

Yeah thats the article i read, however points 4 & 5 are leading me to think i have to actually know what im doing and input / tweak some values

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

@DaymoR32 literally just enable it and take it around for a drive with varying levels of throttle and gear changes. It will sort itself out and update the table itself.

Ideally, you should spend a little bit of time tuning this table. Disable your O2 correction and just hold at a specific RPM and adjust it till your gets as rich as possible

 

I still left the transient table on, however this was before any documentation was even out. One benefit (maybe not) is the gradual ramp in of timing with the transient table still enabled. I might disable it next time I take the car out and see if there's any difference in terms of perceived feel.

Overall, this fuel film modelling has turned a decent ECU into a great ECU!

[DaymoR32]

4 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Ideally, you should spend a little bit of time tuning this table. Disable your O2 correction and just hold at a specific RPM and adjust it till your gets as rich as possible

 

see this is what i mean by tweaking values. i dont know what im adjusting or how to know when its rich or lean.

i really should do one of them HPA academy courses to get my head around it all, as it is interesting to me, i just havent ever read up on it.

Edited October 31, 2023 by DaymoR32

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

2 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:

see this is what i mean by tweaking values. i dont know what im adjusting or how to know when its rich or lean.

i really should do one of them HPA academy courses to get my head around it all, as it is interesting to me, i just havent ever read up on it.

or you can do nothing and enabling this the car will actually drive better than before!

Enable it, disable transient throttle and go for a drive.

Come back and report how big your boner was.

[DaymoR32]

6 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

or you can do nothing and enabling this the car will actually drive better than before!

Enable it, disable transient throttle and go for a drive.

Come back and report how big your boner was.

haha will do!

i need to also get the gear position indicator working again on my IC-7. since updating to nexus firmware on the ECU it just stays on "N". i'll maybe check what the settings where on my ESP backup map and compare to the NSP settings. fingers crossed that works

[R3N3]

45 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

or you can do nothing and enabling this the car will actually drive better than before!

Enable it, disable transient throttle and go for a drive.

Come back and report how big your boner was.

This is what I did haha

[DaymoR32]

On 10/31/2023 at 4:41 PM, R3N3 said:

This is what I did haha

i enabled it and nothing blew up, it also feels a bit smoother to drive now. 

i will now buy a dyno and setup a tuning shop

[R3N3]

I got a great deal on some dba brake rotors today at 50% off for Black Friday. I went with the slotted rotors. The rotors and pads I have are 10yr old…

what’s the go-to with pads these days? @Dose Pipe Sutututu your an intimate fan boy?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Hey mate!

Depends on your usage to be honest, if it's just street duties and windy roads a set of Intima SR would be more than enough for that, however once you hit the track you'll need to step it up into their carbon metallic Intima RR pads.

Also the price point makes the pads attractive too, sure you could get a set of Project Mu HC+ (not the HC800 Thighland made junk that's sold in AU/NZ) off Nengun or Perfect Run or RHDJapan but they're nearly double the price and not double the performance.

Another option are Elig Sports pads, however they are noisy and will piss you off in a few hours lol.

Squeals like a race car.

[R3N3]

17 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Hey mate!

Depends on your usage to be honest, if it's just street duties and windy roads a set of Intima SR would be more than enough for that, however once you hit the track you'll need to step it up into their carbon metallic Intima RR pads.

Also the price point makes the pads attractive too, sure you could get a set of Project Mu HC+ (not the HC800 Thighland made junk that's sold in AU/NZ) off Nengun or Perfect Run or RHDJapan but they're nearly double the price and not double the performance.

Another option are Elig Sports pads, however they are noisy and will piss you off in a few hours lol.

Squeals like a race car.

Thanks, my current ones squeal quite a bit! I’ll look into the SR.

thanks!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

18 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

Thanks, my current ones squeal quite a bit! I’ll look into the SR.

thanks!

See what pricing you can get, I can help source if you need 🙂

Just not too sure how shipping would work.

[DaymoR32]

13 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

See what pricing you can get, I can help source if you need 🙂

Just not too sure how shipping would work.

Dose conned me into opening my wallet for some of them SR pads, i can confirm i nearly headbutted the steering wheel when i pressed the brakes for the first time.

[R3N3]

For those who want the keypad ashtray mount. It is now up for sale:

https://www.iee.nz/product-page/r33-ashtray-location-2x4-keypad-holder
 

Nice quality, highly recommended. Just remember the keypad is mounted upside down, so when you spend hours trying to find out why the car won’t start, button 1 is now button 8…

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Wow that looks the goods, unlike the shitty one I have that's held in with friction using foam tape.

[R3N3]

After putting up with my rubbish sounds in the car, with only speakers in the front door I have decided to further take advantage of some sales:

basically all kicker speakers (KS), small 8inch tube sub and 5-channel JBL amp. Nothing too crazy. The plan is to mount the sub above fuel pump cover, so it won’t compromise boot space. The amp is quite small, so should be easy to hide away.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Full sent it, nice!

[R3N3]

I have been using the car as a bit of a daily the last few weeks, i drop my son and the next door neighbours two boys off to school most mornings, which they love!

This got me thinking about how I was going to mount the amp. I was originally thinking under the passenger seat but the boot is a much safer option away from feet.

I have been following a page called ‘12v clean wire club ‘ on Facebook, which provided some inspo for some amp racks, so I decided to give it a go.

I don’t have any boot trim left (I’m actively looking out for some), so I decided to install on the LHS as close to the battery as possible.

Step 1 - Cardboard template:

I made sure to leave enough room to still access the jack

Step 2 - Transfer template to 18mm MDF

The panel is mounted with 3 M6 bolts secured with riv-nuts

Step 3 - Wire management

I also used a router to round off all sharp edges, ready for some carpet to be glued on.

I still need to add all the speaker cable, route the cabling and install the speakers.. but one step closer!

It also looks like the sub fits perfectly under the parcel tray but I will need to relocate the HICAS ecu.