Jump to content
SAU Community

NZ R33 Long Term Build


Recommended Posts

So I got the head unit all installed this weekend:

IMG_1020.thumb.jpeg.a1cad7148bdf4b1f4a9a1e58b027eca7.jpeg

Wireless CarPlay is the goods! I just need to wire up the reversing camera and the reverse input. I tidied

All weekend I have tried calibrating both the fuel level sender (in the IC7) and the vehicle speed (through the ECU), with no luck. The vehicle speed issue means I can’t test out the cruise control…

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Looney_Head said:

heads up for the cert, when i did mine, i had to have two loops due to how and where the center hanger was.

 

great work on the car, looking and sounding good. and solid power :)

Thanks! 

Funny that. My cert guy was the one who said I needed 1… let’s see what happens.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If he said you only need 1, you should be OK. But officially it's 2 on a 2 piece driveshaft.

There was some talk they were going to relax the rule a bit. Maybe it's starting to happen.

I certed my 30 conversion before the hoop rules came in, but want to do brakes which will trigger a re-cert. I'm hoping to squeak through

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 21/05/2023 at 2:22 PM, R3N3 said:

and the vehicle speed (through the ECU), with no luck

Try this setting, the out of the box Haltech value is much higher and reads weird

image.thumb.png.f099d77d5f81ea69db0e57635390ab3e.png

 

Also if you're running the latest version of the firmware, there's a known bug with VSS doing a few thousand km/h lol

image.thumb.png.5e5425ae0573b6e5ac6301f3008aed4b.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Try this setting, the out of the box Haltech value is much higher and reads weird

image.thumb.png.f099d77d5f81ea69db0e57635390ab3e.png

 

Also if you're running the latest version of the firmware, there's a known bug with VSS doing a few thousand km/h lol

image.thumb.png.5e5425ae0573b6e5ac6301f3008aed4b.png

Yes, I did have the latest firmware, so I think that’s the issue! Also, no more haltech forum?? I joined that FB page too..

the fuel sensor issue on the IC7 also seems to be firmware related. For some reason the software isn’t updating it with the latest firmware…

Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

What the heck? Did they completely axe the forums and all content? Intentionally? This blows my mind. If it was intentional it seems so incredibly misguided I can't even comprehend it.

It appears so!! I solved a lot of problems just searching on there..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 23/5/2023 at 12:05 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Hopefully easy fix!

And yeah, a bit sad they removed the forum. Facebook is a bit shit, same questions get asked every week.

Fixed the speedo issue. Funnily enough, my settings were around 5221 pulses/km and I think that was calibrated at 30km/hr. Verified the speed with a shitty app that lagged heaps, so probably wrong still haha but at least I’m not doing Mach 2 anymore.

played with the idle a bit, as the tuner had it set at 900. The DBW makes this super easy and super stable! I backed it down to about 750/800rpm and it’s rock solid!

just need to figure out the fuel gauge next!

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As part of my cert tomorrow, I had to update the HICAS lock bar, as there is some picky rules re. bars with welds. This is why I bought the PRP bar, it’s billet with no welds..

The bar itself is great but I feel there has been little thought on the actual application. I had to cut 10mm off the thread on the arms to get the toe adjustment anywhere near right. They say they are bringing out new arms for it but who knows Wel hen that’s happening.. I should have gone with a gktech full delete kit.

IMG_1062.thumb.jpeg.4d88231fa8138a339ba59975f6a69377.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, WR33KD said:

You should have just run a non hicas r200 frame and arms and knuckles to suit, way less stress and it’s a way cleaner look under the back

Yeah, I will investigate this.

also, I will be getting a flex fuel sensor, so I will be getting me some of that ethanol you linked! Cheers!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the car failed the cert, however on really minor stuff:

  • Exhaust is 1.9 decibels too loud (was 91.9db at 3200rpm and needs to be 90)- im just going to put a restriction in the exhaust to get a pass. i may quit down the exhaust long term, just want to get a good feel for it first..
  • I need to put a cover over the fuel top hat (factory one doesn't fit because of FPG top hat). ill just have to modify the factory one to suit.
  • no airbag diagnostic light on the dash (as i now have the IC-7). i wish the IC-7 had more customisation here with different logos etc. but nope. I have ordered a little airbag logo light that i will install on the dash.

I should have this remedied next week and finally be legally back on the road.

Edited by R3N3
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
22 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Congrats!

How does it feel on the street?

Really good! The turbo whistle is much louder than I thought it would be. It’s so much rougher than I remember lol. Spending too much time driving the smooth Skoda with heated steering wheel and seats, 360deg camera etc..

I just need to do a road tune to get it 100% perfect

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I totally get this, with the MK2 Tiguan.

Get into the R33 and it feels like a croc of shit.

Best thing is the wireless CarPlay head unit! I just need to get an amp and speakers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I get that. I try to be as cost-efficient as possible with cars, and typically prefer to buy them at the bottom of their depreciation curve. I was looking at those Bilsteins too as they're roughly in the same price bracket as the BC's - lack of adjustability and being soft put me off, not that I want anything too hard. That's my issue with the Skyline, it's too expensive and it's reflected in my driving. I don't mind going full pelt as long as there's a gravel trap to catch me. Really, proper safety equipment is needed for total confidence. Well this just turned up for the BMW. I'll try and get the front together tomorrow and take some pics of the absolutely horrid rear end; perhaps I'll have a crack at the rear on Wednesday. I need to make the car drivable before the weekend as I'll be driving it over to London.    
    • Hi SAU community  Wondering what my 93 Very RARE TH1 Blue R32 GTR VSpec is worth these days?? Build is fairly dated now All Mods are Compliance Approved  Runs RB26 done only 10000ks Greddy T88 done only 8000ks HKS Cam 1000cc Injectors Full Titanium Exhaust Nismo Intercooler Nismo Oil Cooler HKS Oil sump Tein Super Street Coils Cusco Sway Bars RAYS TE37 19x10.5 DYNO street tune makes around 700hp on 98octane  
    • It does sound like a fuse considering the indicators work..I’ll triple check when I’m free and report back.    thanks for the reply.
    • no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.
    • While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost.  As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both.  I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards.    BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.
×
×
  • Create New...