NZ R33 Long Term Build

[R3N3]

So I got the engine cranked over, got good oil pressure and no more leaks! I need to work out the NSP software a bit more, as the fuel pump isn’t priming nor does the starter motor kick in when I press the programmed button on the keypad. However when I change the active state from high to low then they go (which is how I primed it). It’s not a wiring issue, as I can set the individual keypad state change when pressed, so will be a setting somewhere..

The engine bay is pretty much complete now before the fab work

I dusted off the old coil/valley cover and trimmed off the old stand-offs for the igniter. My fabricator will fill the holes and tidy up, including smoothing out the cam covers (there’s a slight indent on the intake side one on the 20det covers). Once that’s done, I’ll get them painted.

One thing I have been thinking about is the intake side and whether I source a factory air box and snorkel for that OEM+ look I’m going for... I’m only expecting 300ish KW’s, so don’t think it will be a restriction? Thoughts?

[R3N3]

On 26/1/2023 at 11:37 PM, R3N3 said:

So I got the engine cranked over, got good oil pressure and no more leaks! I need to work out the NSP software a bit more, as the fuel pump isn’t priming nor does the starter motor kick in when I press the programmed button on the keypad. However when I change the active state from high to low then they go (which is how I primed it). It’s not a wiring issue, as I can set the individual keypad state change when pressed, so will be a setting somewhere..

The engine bay is pretty much complete now before the fab work

I dusted off the old coil/valley cover and trimmed off the old stand-offs for the igniter. My fabricator will fill the holes and tidy up, including smoothing out the cam covers (there’s a slight indent on the intake side one on the 20det covers). Once that’s done, I’ll get them painted.

One thing I have been thinking about is the intake side and whether I source a factory air box and snorkel for that OEM+ look I’m going for... I’m only expecting 300ish KW’s, so don’t think it will be a restriction? Thoughts?

So I have spent a couple of hours trying to work out why the car wouldn’t start when I pressed the keypad button, even called haltech support (I wasn’t with car but had my tune, for them to see).

Anyway, I just realised that my keypad is inverted and I haven’t taken that into account when I programmed the buttons. Real face palm moment. Engine cranks no worries haha.

[Looney_Head]

On 1/28/2023 at 6:43 PM, R3N3 said:

So I have spent a couple of hours trying to work out why the car wouldn’t start when I pressed the keypad button, even called haltech support (I wasn’t with car but had my tune, for them to see).

Anyway, I just realised that my keypad is inverted and I haven’t taken that into account when I programmed the buttons. Real face palm moment. Engine cranks no worries haha.

hahaha glad it was a simple fix. but that is funny.

 

great work on the car, the setup is looking good.

 

you could modify the stock airbox to have larger inlet and put a pod filter in it if you wanted to.

[R3N3]

1 hour ago, Looney_Head said:

hahaha glad it was a simple fix. but that is funny.

 

great work on the car, the setup is looking good.

 

you could modify the stock airbox to have larger inlet and put a pod filter in it if you wanted to.

Thanks! Yeah I test fit it last night and I think I can modify the air box to install an extra air inlet beneath the guard with a pod on it. I will get the pipe work made up to fit the stock air box, if it doesn’t work out I’ll just get a custom one made. I think the stock air box fits the oem+/restomod vibe better..

I have been looking into Varex mufflers and the GFB electronic BOV. I think it would be cool to have a button for different drive modes that control boost, pedal sensitivity, exhaust noise, throttle blip, BOV noise and maybe even like a twin edfc controller etc.. that can maybe be the next stage of mods, as I just want to get it done to drive it..

[WR33KD]

I have a plasma man intake box for the 33, replaces the stock air box

[R3N3]

1 hour ago, WR33KD said:

I have a plasma man intake box for the 33, replaces the stock air box

I have seen them, looks nice! If I went that way I would not want the cutout for the old charcoal canister though..

[WR33KD]

I have one in my shed, didn’t end up using it. Doesn’t have a cut out for that just 2 holes for factory pipes and a lid. Google them 

https://plazmaman.com/product/r33-gtst-air-box/

Edited February 3, 2023 by WR33KD

[R3N3]

So It’s been a while, between work and home life with 5 month old twins and a 6 year old not really much progress…

however I managed to track down a stock air box and snorkel in line with the OEM+ theme:

I know it will be a restriction in its current form, however I’m looking to modify it with an additional 3” air intake through the bottom of the box and to go through the 2nd hole for the old SMIC. When it does eventually get on the dyno, we’ll test with and without, to see if it’s still a restriction. If it is, then no real loss and in the bin it goes..

A couple of annoying issues fixed:

I noticed a tiny water leak from the plenum, which I traced back to one of the temp sensor ports that I plugged. I noticed it didn’t have any thread sealant… added some and it seems to be fine.

I noticed my IC7 dash would intermittently switch off when cranking… A bit of research shows it’s the dumb way (IMO) how Haltech ground their CAN network in the pre-terminated harnesses. Essentially as soon as you add a wideband unit, then you need to ground via battery ground but yet it’s pre-wired to signal ground. I could have just read the wiring diagram for the wideband unit I guess… but it could also have been wired the correct way first..

Edited February 16, 2023 by R3N3

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Skids not loading 😅

Looking good, OEM+ is best.

[R3N3]

Great progress today!

Got the car started, purred to life first go! Even with 18 month old fuel. It’s running as NA at the moment though, as there’s no cooler piping yet. There was also no fires or more leaks, which is always nice... There was a bit of smoke from the turbo and down pipe but this was just the oils etc. burning off. Thanks @Dose Pipe Sutututu for the trigger settings and other haltech tips!

I got the coolant up to about 70 degrees, which had opened the thermostat fully (using a nismo low temp) and initial thoughts on the thermo fan are positive, as I was playing round with the duty cycles and even at 30% it reduced the coolant temp quickly.

there was a couple of times the idle would hunt, so need to look at the settings a bit better there..

 

[R3N3]

Car was picked up today and taken to the workshop. List of work being done:

Aluminium intercooler piping 2.5” hot side & 3” cold side. Weld on Turbosmart raceport BOV and IAT sensor.

Full 3.5” SS exhaust, with v-band joins. It will be getting one decent resonator in the centre and a custom NZ made muffler (AdrenalinR) for some nice and subdued RB noises. I will be going two 3” tips for that OEM+ look. I don’t need a cat for it to be legal, so will not be running one (we’re less progressive with emission laws here).

Custom air box. For now I am parking the factory air box until I sort the additional intake for it, as it will just be a restriction.

Welding up the valley cover so it’s nice and Smooth and has no holes. And the indent in the intake side cam cover will also be filled with weld.

Tune is booked for early April.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Oots oots, very nice!

Will be epic as when it is done, I sure love a good OEM+

[R3N3]

It has begun!

[R3N3]

So i have been on the hunt for some nice 'genuine' wheels lately, scouring trademe (our version of ebay) and marketplace. and i narrowed it down to BBS LM's, Enkei RPF1 or Work s1 or m1. Personally, i generally think there is no place for an even number of spokes on a wheel, however one of the few exceptions to this rule is the RPF1. basically, finding good second hand wheels at a reasonable price is nearly impossible and im not confident in my abilities to pick the fakes from the real ones..

so to cut to the chase, i just pulled the trigger on some brand new S1 3-piece wheels:

Front = 18x9 +18

Rear = 18x9.5 + 11

Im currently running 17x9 +15 F and 17x10 +15 R, so these should fit nearly the same as my current wheels.

the wheels are gloss black centers with polished lips and polished assembly bolts:

 

Normally the lead time is around 20 weeks from Work Wheels, however, the supplier had a spare set in his next shipment, due beginning of April.

[Murray_Calavera]

With the 17" wheel setup, what tyres and size were you running and what was needed to get them to fit? Did they rub anywhere?

[R3N3]

32 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

With the 17" wheel setup, what tyres and size were you running and what was needed to get them to fit? Did they rub anywhere?

I was running a 255/40 on the rear and a 235/40 on the front. Tyres were a Falken FK452 tyre. All I did was roll the guards to get them to fit. I didn’t have aftermarket camber arms, so I think there was about -1.5 deg of camber due to the lowering. Only occasionally would the tyre scrub.

[R3N3]

I found out I was not successful in the ballot for a new GR Corolla today  there’s another 100 vehicles arriving later in the year, so will give it another go then..

On the skyline front, car is still at the fabricator, however I have purchased a new wireless CarPlay head unit (Sony XAV-AX6000), new PRP HICAS lock bar (needed new one as I need to re-certify my car and the old one is no longer accepted) and I am actively looking for a Nismo 1.5way LSD. I’m in Sydney for work next week, so will see if I can maybe pick one up there..

[soviet_merlin]

16 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

I found out I was not successful in the ballot for a new GR Corolla today  there’s another 100 vehicles arriving later in the year, so will give it another go then..

Oh wow, I thought they weren't going to sell them in AU and NZ. I more or less stopped following the news on them because of it. This changes... not really anything for me... but makes me want to read up on some more impressions of it. Fingers crossed it'll work out for you.

Have you had a chance to drive one? Or the GR Yaris?

Looking forward to see what it will look like in person. At least on the photos the GR Corolla seems to look just like a Corolla. Except for the triple tail pipes. The GR Yaris compared to base model is quite different and has a lot of road presence I find. This might be a proper sleeper I guess.

[R3N3]

I know there’s only 250 units coming to NZ, not sure about AUS.. I actually haven’t driven the GR Yaris or the GR Corolla but assume it would be fun.. you? Toyota NZ are also making people sign contracts so they can’t sell to anyone other than Toyota for 12 months. I believe they are also doing this with landcruisers 

My wife was actually not happy, as I was going to get the Corolla as my work car and replace my kodiaq. She can’t drive manual, so would be confined to her kia carnival haha.

[r32-25t]

67k in Australia, think I’ll skip that one