Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I was hunting around on here and found a an old thread in regards to this topic but it hasn't had any new info or comments so I'm trying my luck to get some more up to date info. 

I am in the process of building a R33 GTR, while the engines out to go a bigger sump, head drain etc. I am looking at the front diff thinking it's stupid not to do it while it's out. So down the rabbit hole i've gone, after speaking to my diff builder he has said when making over 500kw you should be looking at doing the rear. Yes I know you can just leave it stock, but I am planning to do the rear as well as the front now. 
My car is a street car and most it's time is seen on the street. From past threads and speaking to GTR owners it really seems like the Nismo GT Pro is a very track orientated diff. I am wanting something that is quiet but performs better than a stock diff. The Quaife is relatively maintenance and sounds like it is better suited for the street. But I am curious if anyone has a Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way in the rear of their GTR that is a mainly a street car, the guy building my diff has suggested he can wind it back and make it more tame for the street but said there will be some noise and some wheel hoping occasionally. Has anyone come across this? Has anyone run both? I would love to hear opinions and feedback if you have run either. 
One thing I found is the guys running the Nismo GT Pro are predominately race cars, mine's far from that. 

 

Cheers 

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the standard diff (assuming you don't have the vspec ALSD), Nissan were kind enough to put a proper race spec diff there from factory. Did your engine builder have any specific benefit to go with the advice to change it?

It is possible (but not particularly likely) that the factory diff centre is worn after 30 years, but if so it is a simple maintenance job to reshim the centre back to either original tightness, or if you want it to be difficult to drive in carparks you can get it tightened up more than factory.  

We use a tightened version of the original diff in the race car and have never had an issue with its ability to lock up when needed

  • Like 1
On 9/5/2022 at 4:43 AM, Duncan said:

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the standard diff (assuming you don't have the vspec ALSD), Nissan were kind enough to put a proper race spec diff there from factory. Did your engine builder have any specific benefit to go with the advice to change it?

It is possible (but not particularly likely) that the factory diff centre is worn after 30 years, but if so it is a simple maintenance job to reshim the centre back to either original tightness, or if you want it to be difficult to drive in carparks you can get it tightened up more than factory.  

We use a tightened version of the original diff in the race car and have never had an issue with its ability to lock up when needed

Yes correct, sorry I should of mentioned it is a non VSPEC. So the diff builder has explained the standard GTR diffs often wear out on the passenger side bearing and the bearing just ends up spinning on the shaft. He has said he can rebuild it to standard build and tighten it, but he doesnt recommend it in higher HP cars. Because it is a weak spot in the GTR rear diffs. I will say that is something I am trying to avoid, wheel hopping in carparks, that would do my head in! 

I don't doubt that the standard diff is capable and can be setup correctly. But the way I see it, if its prone to doing the side bearings lets just eliminate the problem 

On 9/5/2022 at 6:21 AM, Dion_M said:

Out of curiosity experiences have you had? 

I built a franken-helical for my R32 after experimenting with lots of other options. For a street car, they are nearly the perfect diff.

I also corroborate Duncan's input, which is that the factory 2-way clutch type diff is an excellent diff that does not need to be upgraded and actually does not have the bearing "weakness" that your diff builder claims. The bearings will actually be the exact same part regardless of what centre is in the diff anyway, so I'm none too sure what sort of cane toad he has been licking to come up with that story.

I have a nismo 1.5 pro and I am old now and wouldn't use it in a street car. It's an amazing diff though, just be too annoying for weekly drives.  

 

Rebuilt stock gtr is great in the rear, it still skips slightly on tight tight slow turns but very minor. 

Drives both rears perfectly. 

On 9/5/2022 at 7:55 AM, BK said:

I use Quaife front and rear on the 600kw+ 32. Wouldn't use anything else after swapping to these as they are brilliant

Out of curiosity what type of car is it to be running 600kw, drag, circuit, street? What did you do for the gearbox? 

On 06/09/2022 at 11:06 PM, Dion_M said:

Out of curiosity what type of car is it to be running 600kw, drag, circuit, street? What did you do for the gearbox? 

All of the above - built to be an all rounder. Transmission is an H pattern dog box. Read my eternal money pit build thread for full specs on first page

Don't overthink the diffs, buy the Quaife - nice on the street, excellent grip, turn in is great and locks hard when it has to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
×
×
  • Create New...