Jump to content
SAU Community

Pull type clutch refresh - bits and bobs advice needed


Recommended Posts

Hey folks,

I'm looking at getting a new clutch and was wondering what you recommend to use for all the bits beside the actual clutch. To refresh it all whilst it's open.

Do you get OEM? Or are there better aftermarket parts?

 

From discussion with my mechanic this is what I'm mainly looking for:

spigot bearing
clutch fork
clutch pivot ball

flywheel
flywheel bolts
release bearing

Striked through parts already come with the kit. This is for the pull type clutch on my 260awkw C34 Stagea. I'm getting a Nismo Super Coppermix Twin Plate. I like it to be somewhat future proof and it's my daily so driveability is important.

Lots of topics on clutches on the forums but I didn't see much on the little bits around it.

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, BK said:

Fire your mechanic - Pull type clutch doesn't have a pivot ball.

Nothing to upgrade or change if sticking with a pull type.

 

Hah, I'm pretty confident my mechanic is fine and it's me being the dumbass. Thanks for confirming!

That also explains why the various Nismo and aftermarket bits just go on the push type clutches and older 2WD models.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One more question: do you have an opinion on original spigot bushing versus spigot needle bearing?

Via taarks the latter is described as "These needle bearings replace the stock brass spigot bush in the end of the crank that the gearbox input shaft goes into. The needle bearings last longer and put less stress on the gearbox and are also quieter."

Looks like in the forums people recommend the original bushing but no mention why.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Correct as above - I'm with these guys, stock spigot bush. I'd hate to have to pull a box just because a needle roller spigot decided to destroy itself. Needle roller is definitely a solution to problem that doesn't exist.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello everyone,I have a problem on GTR R34 

I purchased a spec SN26PT-2 clutch 

Push type

I reassembled the engine and gearbox

Up to here everything ok

I start the vehicle,I press the clutch and try to engage the gears

At first they didn't engage

So I went back to purging 

After that I went back to try and they fit 

The problem arose when the clutch pedal was released 

With any gear engaged, the vehicle does not move

It appears to be the neutral position

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

you didn't engage the pull fork correctly after the gearbox was reattached to the engine. pull gearboxes suck

Spot on - not to mention all the best clutches on the market are push type. The release bearing on a pull box is quite a shit thing isn't it 👎

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, soviet_merlin said:

Manolo mentioned that his clutch is push type, and you are both mentioning pull setups. What am I missing @Duncanand @BK ? Is it because R34 GTR came with pull from factory and it's converted?

He seems to be wrong as he mentioned the clutch is a Spec SN26PT-2, which is a pull type clutch. It's also harder to convert a Getrag in a 34R to push having a concentric slave cylinder and no factory push gearbox front cover available. On a 34 Getrag you can't just go and buy the factory parts below and convert to a push setup easily like on the other RB 5 speeds that come with pull front covers.

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/gearbox-conversion-kit-pull-to-push

The only way I'm aware you cam change a Getrag to push is with the specific OS giken pull to push kit which still uses the 34 concentric slave cylinder.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To add to that very useful summary, even in the race/rally r32 gtr I have good quality, new(ish) poly bushes everywhere because that is what rules require, and the handling is excellent. Of course, the car doesn't do many klm but I'd still expect poly bushes to last better in road use than sphericals (especially as I have a couple of klm of dirt road to stuff sphericals up) I would change the front upper arms to spherical if I was allowed to, because the poly bushes flog out often, but otherwise new bushes (and ball joints) and a good alignment can make a world of difference
    • Any chance you can get a Nistune board installed instead and set the speed limit to whatever your tires can handle?
    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
×
×
  • Create New...