Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey folks,

I'm looking at getting a new clutch and was wondering what you recommend to use for all the bits beside the actual clutch. To refresh it all whilst it's open.

Do you get OEM? Or are there better aftermarket parts?

 

From discussion with my mechanic this is what I'm mainly looking for:

spigot bearing
clutch fork
clutch pivot ball

flywheel
flywheel bolts
release bearing

Striked through parts already come with the kit. This is for the pull type clutch on my 260awkw C34 Stagea. I'm getting a Nismo Super Coppermix Twin Plate. I like it to be somewhat future proof and it's my daily so driveability is important.

Lots of topics on clutches on the forums but I didn't see much on the little bits around it.

Thanks!

16 minutes ago, BK said:

Fire your mechanic - Pull type clutch doesn't have a pivot ball.

Nothing to upgrade or change if sticking with a pull type.

 

Hah, I'm pretty confident my mechanic is fine and it's me being the dumbass. Thanks for confirming!

That also explains why the various Nismo and aftermarket bits just go on the push type clutches and older 2WD models.

  • Haha 1

One more question: do you have an opinion on original spigot bushing versus spigot needle bearing?

Via taarks the latter is described as "These needle bearings replace the stock brass spigot bush in the end of the crank that the gearbox input shaft goes into. The needle bearings last longer and put less stress on the gearbox and are also quieter."

Looks like in the forums people recommend the original bushing but no mention why.

Correct as above - I'm with these guys, stock spigot bush. I'd hate to have to pull a box just because a needle roller spigot decided to destroy itself. Needle roller is definitely a solution to problem that doesn't exist.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Thanks again for your help guys!

Everything is ordered. Ended up spending around $500 less than I was expecting. Glad I had a look around because rhdjapan had some promotion and sale going. Pretty chuffed with that.

Hello everyone,I have a problem on GTR R34 

I purchased a spec SN26PT-2 clutch 

Push type

I reassembled the engine and gearbox

Up to here everything ok

I start the vehicle,I press the clutch and try to engage the gears

At first they didn't engage

So I went back to purging 

After that I went back to try and they fit 

The problem arose when the clutch pedal was released 

With any gear engaged, the vehicle does not move

It appears to be the neutral position

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

you didn't engage the pull fork correctly after the gearbox was reattached to the engine. pull gearboxes suck

Spot on - not to mention all the best clutches on the market are push type. The release bearing on a pull box is quite a shit thing isn't it 👎

Manolo mentioned that his clutch is push type, and you are both mentioning pull setups. What am I missing @Duncanand @BK ? Is it because R34 GTR came with pull from factory and it's converted?

1 hour ago, soviet_merlin said:

Manolo mentioned that his clutch is push type, and you are both mentioning pull setups. What am I missing @Duncanand @BK ? Is it because R34 GTR came with pull from factory and it's converted?

He seems to be wrong as he mentioned the clutch is a Spec SN26PT-2, which is a pull type clutch. It's also harder to convert a Getrag in a 34R to push having a concentric slave cylinder and no factory push gearbox front cover available. On a 34 Getrag you can't just go and buy the factory parts below and convert to a push setup easily like on the other RB 5 speeds that come with pull front covers.

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/gearbox-conversion-kit-pull-to-push

The only way I'm aware you cam change a Getrag to push is with the specific OS giken pull to push kit which still uses the 34 concentric slave cylinder.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...