Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can't seem to find many topics on this on SAU.

So there are 2 sides to this story that seem to play out.

1. They reduce radiant engine bay heat while increasing turbo efficiency by keeping heat in the turbine housing.

2. Can cause oil "coking" of the bearing due to keeping excess heat in/around the housing

 

Have watched a couple of vids by Engineering Explained and the like on YT, and performance wise, they seem to work well. 

Don't seem to have much real world data on the oil coking bit.

Many RB workshops run them in Aus and all over the world. Anyone have real world experiences with Turbo bearings failing due to Beanies?

P.S (i recently bought a turbo beanie and running it on a water cooled GTX3576 gen2)

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484267-turbo-beanie-vs-no-turbo-beanie/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Coking is not a thing on a running turbo that has cooling (ie sufficient oil and/or water flow).

Seems to be more related to when the car is shutoff as opposed to running? Opposing side to that is if the turbo is also water cooled, the water should in theory take out the excess heat anyway.. *After you've let the car cool down*

Similar to the BOV VS No BOV debate

I've always run beanies on turbo cars, never had an issue 

+1 for reduced enginge bay temps and no melted "stuff"

Coking was a thing on old only oil cooled turbos, water cooled turbos "percolate" negating this

#Physics 

  • Like 1
17 hours ago, djvoodoo said:

increasing turbo efficiency by keeping heat in the turbine housing.

This part I find a bit some what controversial... 

I run one, have always run them to stop things melting at the track. All my turbos have been fine, just the motors explode instead 😂

 

 

  • Haha 1
1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

This part I find a bit some what controversial... 

I run one, have always run them to stop things melting at the track. All my turbos have been fine, just the motors explode instead 😂

 

 

Isn't there a delta in temperature across the turbine housing? Some of that heat has to go into generating KE for the turbine no? It's probably a second order effect compared to the delta in pressure so I doubt it'll be a huge benefit for performance but it's probably not entirely make believe.

10 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Isn't there a delta in temperature across the turbine housing? Some of that heat has to go into generating KE for the turbine no? It's probably a second order effect compared to the delta in pressure so I doubt it'll be a huge benefit for performance but it's probably not entirely make believe.

Maybe in a F1 car, but not our shit boxes to be honest.

Like GTSyoda explains, it's fark all.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

I was getting concerned smelling resin from my cf bonnet, so I put a beanie on my big single, I noticed MUCH lower engine bay temps. No more resin smells.

I also noticed slightly higher ECT/Oil temps on average - By around 2-3 degrees maybe, but I do run an oil cooler so thats no issues at all.

I've just heat wrapped my downpipe and its improved underbonnet temps even further.

1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

I was getting concerned smelling resin from my cf bonnet, so I put a beanie on my big single, I noticed MUCH lower engine bay temps. No more resin smells.

I also noticed slightly higher ECT/Oil temps on average - By around 2-3 degrees maybe, but I do run an oil cooler so thats no issues at all.

I've just heat wrapped my downpipe and its improved underbonnet temps even further.

I still don't understand why there is seemingly so little consideration paid to heat shielding in most single turbo conversions.

8 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

I still don't understand why there is seemingly so little consideration paid to heat shielding in most single turbo conversions.

Because most of these single turbo conversion guys only use it for drag racing or roll racing.

Car is on noise for like a whole 8 to 12 secs.

Put any of those cars around the GP Circuit at Eastern Creek and watch things melt.

 

 

  • Like 3
32 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Because most of these single turbo conversion guys only use it for drag racing or roll racing.

Car is on noise for like a whole 8 to 12 secs.

Put any of those cars around the GP Circuit at Eastern Creek and watch things melt.

 

 

100%. Mines already shielded on the side, all the way from the ABS down to the rail, plus i have heat reflective tape all over the body by the hot side inc firewall.

 

  • Like 1
7 minutes ago, Predator1 said:

100%. Mines already shielded on the side, all the way from the ABS down to the rail, plus i have heat reflective tape all over the body by the hot side inc firewall.

 

The way it should be done!

Most of these "Instagrammable" cars would ignite after one lap of a real circuit.

So, what's the goto for turbo blankets? What are you guys using? Asking as someone who hasn't looked into this much before.

 

4 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Put any of those cars around the GP Circuit at Eastern Creek and watch things melt.

You have this uncanny ability to make me worry about oddly specific things. In a good way. Yes, I'd like to go around GP Circuit at Eastern Creek and no, I don't want to watch things melt. Not that I'm running crazy power but stuff still gets hot.

38 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

So, what's the goto for turbo blankets? What are you guys using? Asking as someone who hasn't looked into this much before.

I'm just using a PTP one, so far it hasn't spontaneously combusted yet lol... Has been two motors, plenty of heat, plenty of anti-lag LOL..

  • Thanks 1

Truck spare parts have quality beanies

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most of the aftermarket stuff is average or costs an arm and a leg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Beanie stops paint fading on the bonnet. But it does makes the bearing housing and turbine housing extremely hot. In cases of oil cooled only or people can't be stuffed connecting water pipes, turbos run without the beanie lasted alot longer.

  

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
×
×
  • Create New...