Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey again guys, this is probably a silly question but can someone explain to me why it would be impossible/not smart/wouldn't work to have a Bosch DBW kit connected up to the factory plenum on a rb25det neo that's running a Haltech elite 2500?

If it could work does that mean the old IAC and AAC unit could be removed and blanked off allowing removal of a bunch of coolant lines?

You could make up a kit for yourself. As you'll be making it up yourself, the world's your oyster as to how you achieve this. 

I'm eventually going to run DBW on the factory manifold as well. I'm keeping my eye on this kit so I can have all the hard work done for me. 

https://outsidergarage.com/products/complete-rb-r32-dbw-adapter-kits

13 minutes ago, SandyBill said:

Hey again guys, this is probably a silly question but can someone explain to me why it would be impossible/not smart/wouldn't work to have a Bosch DBW kit connected up to the factory plenum on a rb25det neo that's running a Haltech elite 2500?

If it could work does that mean the old IAC and AAC unit could be removed and blanked off allowing removal of a bunch of coolant lines?

There is nothing inherently wrong with the idea. You are correct that you can remove/blank off the intake air regulator/AAC valve on the side of the OEM plenum. You will need to replace the OEM accelerator pedal with a DBW pedal and retune an Elite 2500 to suit. The barrier as far as I can tell is more practical than anything else as there's no easy kit to do what you're asking for. Most people seem to go aftermarket manifold if they're going to bother with DBW. Personally not a fan of most plenums out there but if I had to pick one it would probably be this one which appears to extend the runners more than most kits out there:

 image.thumb.png.06a9f77937d52182bc17eda28b189901.png

1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

You could make up a kit for yourself. As you'll be making it up yourself, the world's your oyster as to how you achieve this. 

I'm eventually going to run DBW on the factory manifold as well. I'm keeping my eye on this kit so I can have all the hard work done for me. 

https://outsidergarage.com/products/complete-rb-r32-dbw-adapter-kits

That's what I thought as well haha, ooh I'm amazed at how much interesting stuff is coming out of the states for the Neo now.

Would something like the https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/platinum-racing-products-drive-by-wire-pedal-throttlebody-kit-to-suit-nissan-r-chassis?variant=43977399075048

Be a good starting point. I can't find any data on how this kits pedal actually goes into a 34 accelerator bracket though.

Edited by SandyBill
45 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

There is nothing inherently wrong with the idea. You are correct that you can remove/blank off the intake air regulator/AAC valve on the side of the OEM plenum. You will need to replace the OEM accelerator pedal with a DBW pedal and retune an Elite 2500 to suit. The barrier as far as I can tell is more practical than anything else as there's no easy kit to do what you're asking for. Most people seem to go aftermarket manifold if they're going to bother with DBW. Personally not a fan of most plenums out there but if I had to pick one it would probably be this one which appears to extend the runners more than most kits out there:

 image.thumb.png.06a9f77937d52182bc17eda28b189901.png

I'm glad to hear I'm not crazy thinking of it, I'm in the same boat with the FFP, I do like the look of the plazmaman but it doesn't appear to have any benefits besides accessing the spark plugs and tidying the open bay up a bit. It's cost/gain ratio lacks and I don't want to be putting that hole through the side of the battery tray. 

The Rajab unit looks nice and compact to still access the fuel side of your strut tower etc! Cheers man

I really like the idea of going DBW the the stock unit and removing some of that potentially obsolete engine control gear.

Edited by SandyBill
2 hours ago, SandyBill said:

really like the idea of going DBW the the stock unit and removing some of that potentially obsolete engine control gear.

Has been done by a member here, can't remember his alias but essentially the DBW flange was welded onto the stock plenum and all the OEM laggy leak valves were deleted.

He's since sold the car. 

I dare say the OEM plenum with an DBW throttle would out perform the fancy stuff.

I know I know, I talk tough with OEM plenums and pushing 400kW out of unopened stock motors but I don't have either of them on my car 😂😂😂

  • Like 3
On 19/01/2023 at 7:42 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:


I know I know, I talk tough with OEM plenums and pushing 400kW out of unopened stock motors but I don't have either of them on my car 

Add Samsonas to that list brah.

  • Haha 2
5 hours ago, SandyBill said:

That's what I thought as well haha, ooh I'm amazed at how much interesting stuff is coming out of the states for the Neo now.

Would something like the https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/platinum-racing-products-drive-by-wire-pedal-throttlebody-kit-to-suit-nissan-r-chassis?variant=43977399075048

Be a good starting point. I can't find any data on how this kits pedal actually goes into a 34 accelerator bracket though.

Looks like a good starting point. 

If your keen on it, best bet would be to chat with PRP and see how the peddle bracket mounts up. 

  • Thanks 1
11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

As is all the Platinum Racing stuff, Plasmaman, etc etc. There wouldn't be too much product being made in the US (or by US outfits) that is an actual new idea. Almost everything has already been done in Japan, Australia and NZ.

Yeah very true 🫡, I was just mainly referring to how much custom fab stuff they have on the sites over there that we usually have to make ourselves or go to a shop to get done. Like different blank plates for things that aren't commonly blanked and ally intercooler piping kits to use the factory holes. I guess cause it's like it's 1998 over there and it's all exciting as a newer skyline gets released into the wild.

11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Has been done by a member here, can't remember his alias but essentially the DBW flange was welded onto the stock plenum and all the OEM laggy leak valves were deleted.

He's since sold the car. 

I dare say the OEM plenum with an DBW throttle would out perform the fancy stuff.

I know I know, I talk tough with OEM plenums and pushing 400kW out of unopened stock motors but I don't have either of them on my car 😂😂😂

This is what I wanted to hear! Cheers mate, it'll be interesting and I'm going to do it 😏

8 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Looks like a good starting point. 

If your keen on it, best bet would be to chat with PRP and see how the peddle bracket mounts up. 

Cheers buddy I'll give them a bell and see what they say. 

 

I'll keep this thread going with info/pics and work I do or get done 👍

10 minutes ago, SandyBill said:

I was just mainly referring to how much custom fab stuff they have on the sites over there that we usually have to make ourselves or go to a shop to get done. Like different blank plates for things that aren't commonly blanked and ally intercooler piping kits to use the factory holes.

Actually, that more reflects the major difference between the way US car guys modify and the way that Aussies modify. They are absolutely allergic to having to fabricate anything themselves. If they cannot buy it off the shelf, preferably as a complete bolt on kit, they don't do it.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Actually, that more reflects the major difference between the way US car guys modify and the way that Aussies modify. They are absolutely allergic to having to fabricate anything themselves. If they cannot buy it off the shelf, preferably as a complete bolt on kit, they don't do it.

Haha I never thought of it like that so true!

1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

For the pedal a 350z/g35 pedal bolts up no need for the bosch pedal and can be bought for much cheaper.

I preferred drilling 2x new holes next to the original ones to move the pedal more to the right.

Then a bit of a Thai massage on the vice to lower the pedal and it's better than OEM 

5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I preferred drilling 2x new holes next to the original ones to move the pedal more to the right.

Then a bit of a Thai massage on the vice to lower the pedal and it's better than OEM 

Can we see pics please

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...