Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need to pull my engine when I fit a new gearbox and will change over my head drain (Spool) to something nicer and get the plumbing to the dry sump tidied up. I was doing some googling to see what was around and came across this product, according to the video it removes water from the back of the head where it gets hot.

https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/rb-double-head-drain-oil-coolant

I'm not aware of this issue with RB's, is this just PRP selling us something we don't need because it looks great? 

 

It does mention grout filled blocks, so maybe it's applicable to those setups?

Plenty of SAU guys race their cars from grassroots motorsports (me) all the way to competition level ( @Duncan @34GeeTeeTee etc.) and we all don't have issues with water cooling or flow, it's more so keeping oil temps within its working parameters.

  • Like 1

I suspect that's who it's aimed at. Just to be clear, I don't have any cooling issues; I've spent plenty of time and money on the cooling system and it's got a 3 pass radiator, swirl pot and header tank which bleeds the system of air. 

I'd be interested to see if there was a temperature difference across the head significant enough to impact mixtures.

 

I have this head drain on my engine setup. It was already on the complete engine I bought when I got it.

We used the oil drain line to the sump and blocked the water line, others that run the same setup mine is based off for motorsport use and recommend the water line. 

Btw - I have a spare brand new one for sale if you want it 😄

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 1

People have been racing RBs for more than 2 decades on circuits without issue, if it was an issue HKS/GReddy/Tomei, etc. would have addressed this problem decades ago.

Like how HKS brought out the V-Cam setup for RB26 owners wanting more low down.

20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

People have been racing RBs for more than 2 decades on circuits without issue, if it was an issue HKS/GReddy/Tomei, etc. would have addressed this problem decades ago.

Like how HKS brought out the V-Cam setup for RB26 owners wanting more low down.

The head that HKS did for me back in 2010 did add a fitting in the back of the head. -8 line around the front and tee’d in somewhere. Can’t remember where.

No idea if it does anything or not.

4B3887B2-0895-4570-BB2A-E57E14D526DB.png

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, bcozican said:

I have this head drain on my engine setup. It was already on the complete engine I bought when I got it.

We used the oil drain line to the sump and blocked the water line, others that run the same setup mine is based off for motorsport use and recommend the water line. 

Btw - I have a spare brand new one for sale if you want it 😄

Pm in coming.

  • 1 month later...

My engine builder builds many high power track RB's,  lots of dollars in the head, when I asked about the rear coolant drain he talked me out of it, so just doing oil drain only.

My previous experience with PRP is the bloke who runs it likes to sell all sorts of stuff and talk you into all sorts of stuff whether it benefits you, or whether it doesn't benefit you.

Edited by RB335
  • Like 3

Interesting thought to have:

People are saying water coolant temps are easy to keep down.

However, some need a lot of work on oil cooling.

Water temps are normally taken at the front of the motor or on the rad inlet/outlets.

Water and oil flow very differently in the motor.

 

What if, your oil is doing the majority of the cooling in the back of the engine?

Wouldn't this mean better water flow, less struggle with oil temps...

 

There is a reason those water heat exchangers work not only to help warm up the water quickly at startup, but also stabilise oil temperatures when oil starts to get warmer than water temp.

Possibly people using those oil/water heat exchangers could help with their oil temps too if oil temps are getting higher than water temp...

 

Just a few thoughts, as the issue people have is high oil temps in racing, which could be from poor thermal management, particularly from water flow...

  • 5 months later...
On 4/3/2023 at 8:30 PM, RB335 said:

My engine builder builds many high power track RB's,  lots of dollars in the head, when I asked about the rear coolant drain he talked me out of it, so just doing oil drain only.

My previous experience with PRP is the bloke who runs it likes to sell all sorts of stuff and talk you into all sorts of stuff whether it benefits you, or whether it doesn't benefit you.

My experience with the guy that runs PRP (Herman) is quite the opposite. He has talked me out of purchases more than into one. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...