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Freshly Rebuilt rb25det no compression!!


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Cam cover off, exhaust manifold off, bright light in through spark plug hole, inspection camera in through exhaust port, looking for light coming in around valve seats that should be closed.

But yes, probably easier just to proceed straight to head removal. Possibly find what you did wrong with the cam timing (to cause bent valves) as you disassemble!

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Do you know if the motor had comp & was running before you swapped your neo head for it?

to me it sounds like it’s a rb25de converted to rb25det. Check engine number to see if this is the case. 
 

if it is de… I’d say it’s still running the de piston & rings, that aren’t sealing the comp for the turbo setup.

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42 minutes ago, FiXtUrE said:

if it is de… I’d say it’s still running the de piston & rings, that aren’t sealing the comp for the turbo setup.

Oh, is this based on your research for the (admittedly helpful) reply in the other thread about the difference between Neo DE and DET pistons and rings?

If so, what makes you think that the difference between the DE and DET ring packs is how good they can seal? Can you not imagine another reason that they might be different? Maybe the ring grooves are different dimensions between the turbo and non. Maybe the Nissan engineers (rather obviously) acknowledged that the turbo application was a harder duty so they had a more resilient ring pack design.

Because, as you surely must know after all this research, there have been literally thousands of DEs have a turbo slapped onto them, and provided they are otherwise built and tuned right**, they do not suffer from weak ring syndrome.

**Not to be taken for granted, because the world is full of morons who just slap shit together and wonder why it blows up.

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  • 2 months later...
26 minutes ago, Driftieboy said:

Update, the shop that done the rebuild f**ked up big time, machine work on the vavle seats was done wrong and the bearings were also installed wrong so my freshly rebuilt motor in now getting another rebuid 🥴

Is it all being done under warranty?

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  • 1 month later...
On 30/05/2023 at 12:53 PM, Murray_Calavera said:

Is it all being done under warranty?

Unfortunately no...  i was slack and because of family life it took me 2 years to put the motor back in and all finished up ready for it's first start... turns out my "6months" was abit off 😅 time flies when you have young kids!

Edited by Driftieboy
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  • 2 months later...

Sorry to say, the only thing I would ever do

iN tHe bIn! : MightyCarMods

No matter how expensive the oil cooler and lines are, losing another engine is more expensive.

Also don't forget the oil/water cooler at the block if you still have it, and also the inside of the oil pump if you are re-using that

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Teflon lined hoses? They shouldn't hold on to any metal bits, because they're pretty smooth. Just a damn good flush with lots of water and possibly then some solvent. If paranoid, you could try to pig them by pushing through something (fabric wads, earplugs, tampons) with a skinny and long enough rod. Or you can attempt to pull them through by attaching same to pull wire that might be easier to pre-thread on a longer hoses.

Cooler? Throw it away.

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Thanks, yeh inside of hoses seem nice and smooth, i ended up fulling up a water bottle with diesel and squirting it as down each line with some force into a bucket, used a good 5L, i attached some photos of the end result and no that's not stars in the night sky! 😅

Anyone want to buy some diesel? Going cheap 🤣

20231004_163311.jpg

20231004_163307.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/2/2023 at 9:39 PM, GTSBoy said:

Teflon lined hoses? They shouldn't hold on to any metal bits, because they're pretty smooth. Just a damn good flush with lots of water and possibly then some solvent. If paranoid, you could try to pig them by pushing through something (fabric wads, earplugs, tampons) with a skinny and long enough rod. Or you can attempt to pull them through by attaching same to pull wire that might be easier to pre-thread on a longer hoses.

Cooler? Throw it away.

It is possible to refurbish the cooler, in the US at least we have some oil cooler service companies that are mostly specialized in aviation and are FAA certified. Those oil coolers are usually huge, huge money because everything in aviation is. They flush the cooler under pressure and high temperature + ultrasonic it until they verify that the cooler no longer sheds debris. 

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Pig your lines with any appropriately sized rifle/shotgun cleaning kit. As for the cooler, as mentioned, there are many companies that can clean it out if it's actually worth something. If it's a cheap ebay 150$ cooler, toss it. 

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