Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

43 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

For the mechanically challenged: How can one tell whether there still is a water/oil heat exchanger on the car or not? Asking for a friend ;)

What does it look like and where does it live on an rb25?

image.thumb.jpeg.6daab49b68417611f47d0800ec353c22.jpeg

Look for this round thing stuck to your oil filter housing with two coolant hoses coming off of it. Basically every modern remotely high performance engine uses one to help regulate oil temps

  • Thanks 1
3 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Mine did that too. I replaced it with a non-cracked oem fan. Works well.

Yeah but at the same price the gktech is apparently 15% bigger in diameter and advertised to pull out 40% more air on rbs so went with that,

1 minute ago, YD34GTT said:

Yeah but at the same price the gktech is apparently 15% bigger in diameter and advertised to pull out 40% more air on rbs so went with that,

Well, if you've already got it then see how it goes for your use case. We can all pretty much confirm it's not as good as the stock fan, all we can hope now is that it is good enough for how you will personally use the car. 

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Also why not G35-900?

Get a good thermostat, and don't skimp on the cooler. Get either Setrab or Earls or Mocal or PWR etc. Avoid the eBay looking one with great marketing and big branding. You know which one.

Excuse the mechanical ignorance but regarding the thermostat are you saying replace the oem one for a better one? 

Do.you have any recommendations? 

4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

He was talking about the thermostat in the oil cooler circuit.

OK sweet 

I think I'm going to go for this one here with PWR oil cooler, taarks oil block and greddy oil filter relocation with built in thermostat

https://www.jdmgarage.com.au/shop/engine/cooling/oil-coolers/rb-oil-cooler-and-relocation-kit-v3-rb20-rb25-rb26-greddy-pwr-taarks/

1 hour ago, YD34GTT said:

OK sweet 

I think I'm going to go for this one here with PWR oil cooler, taarks oil block and greddy oil filter relocation with built in thermostat

https://www.jdmgarage.com.au/shop/engine/cooling/oil-coolers/rb-oil-cooler-and-relocation-kit-v3-rb20-rb25-rb26-greddy-pwr-taarks/

Why do you want to get rid of your oil warmer/cooler in a street car?

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Why do you want to get rid of your oil warmer/cooler in a street car?

Well after the comments in the thread i did mention that I'll be looking to track the car maybe couple times a year, so everyone is recommending an oil cooler hahaha now your comment got me confused 😅

2 hours ago, YD34GTT said:

Well after the comments in the thread i did mention that I'll be looking to track the car maybe couple times a year, so everyone is recommending an oil cooler hahaha now your comment got me confused 😅

Oh my bad. What I mean is, you can have an oil cooler and keep the factory oil cooler/warmer. 

The factory oil cooler/warmer will help bring your oil temps up after a cold start.

The Taarks oil block deletes the factory cooler/warmer.

35 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

What I mean is, you can have an oil cooler and keep the factory oil cooler/warmer. 

This is a wise suggestion for a predominantly street/roll/drag car 

 

1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Ahhhh ok so getting an oil cooler without the taarks oil block and getting these sandwich plate attachments is what you're suggesting ?

1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Ahaaa ok just did some reading some essentially the sandwich plate goes between the block and and the filter and it by passes the oil cooler system unless it's really needed, so essentially leaving the factory warmer cooler until it's needed 

Am I correct in saying that?

Still learning a lot about my build so excuse the ignorance. That's why I love these forums haha

Another way to do it, is to use the Greedy relocation blocks, then make up your own lines and mount your oil cooler where you want it.

Alternatively just buy their kit, although it comes with a small-ish oil cooler, which would be plenty for your usage anyhow.

images.thumb.jpeg.65b4932b4f233c2c9cc7d29f6175340e.jpeg

images(1).thumb.jpeg.b09b63a9871e5a51b5a31833abf200fe.jpeg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...