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19 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:

damn that insane

Just proves you don't need a fancy intake plenum.

Current iteration I'm running a FFP, kind of a "might as well" moment because needed to fit DBW and delete all the garbage idle control leak valves and other useless crap.

  • Like 1
4 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Just proves you don't need a fancy intake plenum.

Current iteration I'm running a FFP, kind of a "might as well" moment because needed to fit DBW and delete all the garbage idle control leak valves and other useless crap.

the way im thinking about it is that if I get one now i wont have to get one later, another thing as well. to the dismay of someone else on this thread, i like the ffp because they look better, and because this is going to be a show car as well as hopefully a little beast, i wanna be able to open the bonnet and have it look nice and clean.

Assuming the ECU can control boost, all you need is a MAC valve, wiring and vacuum line plumbing.

For ECU, that's kind of like talking religion, politics or whether pineapple belongs on pizza. Anything except the standard, untuned ECU can work, in cost order

Nistune + z32 AFM + Boost controller

PowerFC + z32 AFM + Boost controller 

Link, Haltech basic models, they can run MAP and control boost so you just need the MAC valve) + wide band o2

Then a whole world of pain up to Motec

Price range for the hardware approx $1k-$5k

  • Like 1
47 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:

now im confused, youve said in the first part that a top mount and ffp isnt necessary however in your second youre saying theyre for performance? which one is it?

They are not performance mods, unless you need the performance that they are suited to, which is in the order of double what you are asking for. In your context, they are 100% cosmetic, and actually carry a performance penalty, in the case of the FFP.

As far as I am concerned a show car does not have to have any actual performance. If its purpose is to look pretty with the bonnet up, it does not even have to run. If you want a good performance car, then the things that make it pretty with the bonnet up are not necessary and can be counterproductive.

You do you. But a highmount and an FFP are not even remotely required. I'd rather spend the money on brakes, suspension and tyres than bling to make the guys with shaved heads want to blow you.

  • Like 1
9 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Assuming the ECU can control boost, all you need is a MAC valve, wiring and vacuum line plumbing.

For ECU, that's kind of like talking religion, politics or whether pineapple belongs on pizza. Anything except the standard, untuned ECU can work, in cost order

Nistune + z32 AFM + Boost controller

PowerFC + z32 AFM + Boost controller 

Link, Haltech basic models, they can run MAP and control boost so you just need the MAC valve) + wide band o2

Then a whole world of pain up to Motec

Price range for the hardware approx $1k-$5k

yeah i had a look at a link ecu.. the one i want is just shy of 3k... which is pretty insane considering ive only ever owned sh*tboxes haha. but yeah ive begun making a list and so far its gonna cost around... 6k, but thats missing out on a lot of the plumbing, tuning and electrical labour i cant quite do myself. also planning on adding a few extra like a crank/cam trigger kit, some adjustable cam gears and the crank shaft extender thing (ive blanked on what its called, pretty much extends the crank and adds more splines) althought i do save money because the engine has already had some good head studs installed as well as fixed the oiling issue, so hopefully no spun bearings for me.

 

14 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Nistune + z32 AFM + Boost controller

Not really an option without buying another (R32) ECU, unless it's an S2 C34 (and hence Neo engine). Best avvoided iin favour of the other options. Disclaimer, I have Nistune, so it's not as if I don't think it's a good thing. Just not as appropriate here, probably.

  • Like 1

I run a link in my stagea too, it does a good job

And, welcome to the slippery slope.  If you want to stay in a budget, a highflow in the stock location, with stock intake and routing, nistune, injectors will get to to around that power at about 1/3 of the price.

4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

They are not performance mods, unless you need the performance that they are suited to, which is in the order of double what you are asking for. In your context, they are 100% cosmetic, and actually carry a performance penalty, in the case of the FFP.

As far as I am concerned a show car does not have to have any actual performance. If its purpose is to look pretty with the bonnet up, it does not even have to run. If you want a good performance car, then the things that make it pretty with the bonnet up are not necessary and can be counterproductive.

You do you. But a highmount and an FFP are not even remotely required. I'd rather spend the money on brakes, suspension and tyres than bling to make the guys with shaved heads want to blow you.

 

well like i said, 350 is what i consider a reasonable ball park and if i can use these parts to make more then ill make sure theyre not just cosmetic at all.

2 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:

yeah i had a look at a link ecu.. the one i want is just shy of 3k... which is pretty insane considering ive only ever owned sh*tboxes haha. but yeah ive begun making a list and so far its gonna cost around... 6k, but thats missing out on a lot of the plumbing, tuning and electrical labour i cant quite do myself. also planning on adding a few extra like a crank/cam trigger kit, some adjustable cam gears and the crank shaft extender thing (ive blanked on what its called, pretty much extends the crank and adds more splines) althought i do save money because the engine has already had some good head studs installed as well as fixed the oiling issue, so hopefully no spun bearings for me.

 

The crank collar is an engine out job, is the engine currently in the bay?

What are your thoughts on aiming for around 450kw? It will still be quite responsive and the high mount turbo and all the other parts will then make sense. The funny thing is, what you are describing to build vs a 450kw setup will be very similar in price. 

4 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I run a link in my stagea too, it does a good job

And, welcome to the slippery slope.  If you want to stay in a budget, a highflow in the stock location, with stock intake and routing, nistune, injectors will get to to around that power at about 1/3 of the price.

yeahhh ive found that one out haha.

currently that list is comprised of

front mount intercooler (aeroflow)

link ecu (G4x Xtremex)

gated manifold and screamer pipe (hypergear)

electronic boost gauge (gfb)

high flow mod for my current turbo (hypergear)

front facing plenum

so defintely missing a heap of stuff but thats just what i have so far.

with what i have do you think i should be aiming for more power? cause 350 is just my ballpark, but if i can gain more without rebuilding the engine i will.

6 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

The crank collar is an engine out job, is the engine currently in the bay?

What are your thoughts on aiming for around 450kw? It will still be quite responsive and the high mount turbo and all the other parts will then make sense. The funny thing is, what you are describing to build vs a 450kw setup will be very similar in price. 

yeah engine is currently in the bay, but if i have to take it out i will. in my mind, an engine out to increase the longevity of the engine is worth the time.

and im not sure if youre keeping up with GTS boy, but im not opposed to spending a fair bit on this car. i opened this forum with an idea of what i could do in mind and it seems what i want to do is overcompensating a bit haha, im not opposed to aiming for way more at all, 450kw is mad! just dont want to be one of those guys who wants to get 1000hp on his first go sort of thing, but it appears i have undershot it and i guess now i look like i have no clue. but if its a few k more for the 450kw then thats fine by me.

8 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Tell him the price son. Any number with 4 zeros is not going to be what he wants to hear. Having a 2 or a 3 as the first digit will be the end of it.

only if the 2 or the 3 is followed by 4 zeros themselves, im not looking to spend 20 to 30k but im more than happy to spend under that. not quite sure where you got the idea of me not wanting to spend money on but you need to take a chill pill champ

2 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:

only if the 2 or the 3 is followed by 4 zeros themselves, im not looking to spend 20 to 30k but im more than happy to spend under that. not quite sure where you got the idea of me not wanting to spend money on but you need to take a chill pill champ

Are you happy to spend 20k on this build? 

It sounds like you'll be doing the mechanical work yourself and paying for any wiring and tuning involved? Is that correct?

  • Like 1

Obviously it’s all your choice, so if you want to be able to lift the bonnet and see obvious performance parts, then go for it and spend the many moneys to look the part. Otherwise, there’s some real good advice here to do things properly utilising as many stock parts as possible (note the stock manifolds will always be better than cheap Chinese knock off ones).

I personally went a hypergear turbo in the stock turbo location and a Greddy front facing plenum for 300ish kw. I’m still spending thousands on fab work, so nothing is really cheap haha. Note than when using stock location items, you can generally get quality off the shelf kits for exhaust, intake and cooler piping, so minimal fab work will be required..

2 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Are you happy to spend 20k on this build? 

It sounds like you'll be doing the mechanical work yourself and paying for any wiring and tuning involved? Is that correct?

id prefer not to but i can, it would just be gradual over time.

yeah ill be doing all the mechanical work myself and i know a few auto electricians and tuners who can help me, definitely not for free but it wont cost an insane amount

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