Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 minutes ago, OO Dan OO said:

Just recently my accessories is staying on once my key has been removed.

is there anything I can test or a work-around to put acc on a seperate switch instead?

You sure your accessory relays aren't sticking closed? They hang out under the the interior fuse panel.

  • Like 1

I pulled all the relays out from under the dash. And accessories where still on. 
I happened when I was re-fitting the cluster surround. I still had my keys in the ignition and had to kind of force them out.

do you know what relay in particular? Pulling it out should turn everything off right?

4 minutes ago, OO Dan OO said:

I pulled all the relays out from under the dash. And accessories where still on. 
I happened when I was re-fitting the cluster surround. I still had my keys in the ignition and had to kind of force them out.

do you know what relay in particular? Pulling it out should turn everything off right?

Top two relays are accessory relays, bottom-most is the ignition relay. That last bit makes me wonder if your ignition barrel is damaged as robbo mentioned.

I always love the way the story comes out in dribs and drabs.

OP, you f**ked it. It is up to you to work out what you f**ked. Luckily for you, Robbo is likely right on it.

Unluckily for you, these things don't grow on trees any more.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1

There is a connector to unplug the ignition switch from the wiring harness about 4 inches away. Unplug it and see if you still have acc powered on, if you do its the relay thats broken. Otherwise its the switch.

On the bottom of the ignition barrel is a tiny screw, undo that and the switch with the wires attached comes apart from the barrel.

When you have it out of the car you test the electrical switch itself.

  • Thanks 1

They don't sell the lock barrels anymore, but they do still sell the barrel switch and wiring which is more then likely what you need. Part# 48750-D4500. 30$

If for whatever reason you need the whole kit, 3gspares.co.nz has a used set.

On 29/5/2023 at 7:14 PM, alexj said:

There is a connector to unplug the ignition switch from the wiring harness about 4 inches away. Unplug it and see if you still have acc powered on, if you do its the relay thats broken. Otherwise its the switch.

On the bottom of the ignition barrel is a tiny screw, undo that and the switch with the wires attached comes apart from the barrel.

When you have it out of the car you test the electrical switch itself.

I unplugged the ignition wiring from the harness and I still have acc on. Which relay should I check?

image.thumb.jpeg.ea2130d6723d0ff3a57a096b10d89ef0.jpeg

4 hours ago, alexj said:

you could look them up on the wiring diagram but its easier to just unplug the blue relays until the circuit you are interested loses power.

I have pulled every relay in the car out and acc still stays on. I even pulled them leaving all of them out and still acc is on.

thos is some kind of supernatural shit

13 hours ago, OO Dan OO said:

I have pulled every relay in the car out and acc still stays on. I even pulled them leaving all of them out and still acc is on.

thos is some kind of supernatural shit

Not supernatural, someone has probably messed with the wiring and it has effectively made the acc line always live. I have seen improper radio grounding do something similar before.

Turns out the acc do turn off but it was the dash and tail lights that won't turn off. I unplugged the headlight switch and they still stay on. At least I have ruled the switch out. For now I am powering the tail lights from a different fuse which turns off when the key is off. But it's a really hacky way to not have to disconnect the battery every time I get out of the car.

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, OO Dan OO said:

Turns out the acc do turn off but it was the dash and tail lights that won't turn off. I unplugged the headlight switch and they still stay on. At least I have ruled the switch out. For now I am powering the tail lights from a different fuse which turns off when the key is off. But it's a really hacky way to not have to disconnect the battery every time I get out of the car.

That circuit is always live, just switched through the dashboard. So you'd have to figure out why the circuit is completing when it shouldn't.

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

That circuit is always live, just switched through the dashboard. So you'd have to figure out why the circuit is completing when it shouldn't.

Do you think it could have something to do with the high beam dash light? I think I may have removed it cos my beams don't work anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
    • wow, a completely stock GTR! I've got to admit, I have no idea from what you are describing....do you have  any idea where the "thump" comes from, and are you certain it is the HICAS light not something else like the cat overheat light?
    • nice work, welcome to the world of CAD! fabricating accurately in 3 dimensional space is beyond me....I almost always end up making something more than once...sorry I mean I extensively use prototyping
×
×
  • Create New...