Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Admin delete if not allowed please, I just purchased an r32 GTST with a Gtr front bar , grill I assume bonnet? (maybe) I have 2 questions he told me it had an RB25det I’m new to the RB world, and this is the photo I have taken and also I noticed a piece near my suspension broken is this fixable , will update new photos tomorrow once I have lifted her up and removed the LHS wheel I want to know if there is ways around this , I didn’t notice anything as it drove with no knocks on the suspension or weird feeling 

 

the car feels sluggish, and the rpm cluster literally goes to 3.5-4k rpm and when you put your foot down it dances around like the local girl on Canterbury road or Sefton playhouse the car sat for 8 years he said the oil was dropped and re done , I noticed the oil was very clean car starts no problems by all means it’s not a clean car it is a project but doesn’t need much, knowing me I will go overboard the colour is horrible car has 88k kms hardly driven needs a few things but it’ll be fun to build properly 

 

so guys is this an rb20 or rb25

and what is this bracket called? Can it be fixed thanks 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485448-any-help-appreciated/
Share on other sites

My eyes ! My eyes ! I'm blinded now for life !

Hunt down the people who did that and destroy them !

Sacrilege to the God of Skylines !

Oh the humanity !

OK I'm better now  !

As joshuah96 said but looks like the clutch master cylinder was out before it was painted !

Very sus that !

5 hours ago, R32.RB said:

so guys is this an rb20 or rb25

There is absolutely no way to tell. What we can tell you is that it is an RB. It has a single, low mounted turbo, so it would seem likely that it is an R20 or 25, but it has RB26 inlet side and valve covers. As it is clearly a frankenstein, it could be absolutely anything. It is unlikely to be good, unless the person responsible for the painting was not also responsible for the engine.

5 hours ago, R32.RB said:

and what is this bracket called? Can it be fixed thanks

That bracket is not a bracket and it is not broken. It is the top end of the suspension upright, connected to the outer end of the front upper control arm. It is your suspension. Take the wheel off and look at it.

Has the VCT bulge on the intake(Actually, you can see the VCT solenoid on the intake side, so looks like an RB25, but thats not a RB26 intake for sure. Wouldn't be surprised if its a rb25 that someone has just 'slapped' on a turbo on the factory ecu.

If its running like a dog, then the dead giveaway is the intake.. missing the AFM.

  • Like 1
On 24/4/2024 at 8:16 AM, Duncan said:

You might be able to find the engine number (if about it hasn't been painted over....) the prefix should be rb25 or rb20

Got on the side of under the manifold says 75T 

owner said it’s an rb25det and 25box unsure but I was certain that rb25det’s s2 don’t have an ignitor  at the back ( I might be wrong here) rb20’s and early s1 models do aswell? I’m confused about this car I got it for a low price tbh factory sunroof , etc it has been sitting for a whole couple years then the guy I got the car off got the oil done couple weeks before I got  and he got busy with his business and it sat there for abit prior to him listing it for sale and doing the oil etc,

car feels sluggish? Rpm spikes up and down bounces like crazy under acceleration coilpacks? Tune? Turbo ? I knew it was going to be a project as it’s what I wanted but I don’t want to throw big money on parts if I don’t know if it’s a rb25det neo or not, or what the heck is going on 

OP didn’t know much about the car as he got it from a friend of a friend who done the work to the car 8-9+ years ago and the bloke I bought it off lost the buyers info so I’m lost 

On 24/4/2024 at 11:20 AM, GTSBoy said:

Meh, just saw the Nissan badge on the plenum on the thumbnail and presumed it wasn't as nasty a fake up as the paintjob.

Yes paintjob is fkn nasty orange 🤢🤢🤮I did not do that to this car mate I want  to remove the motor to build it from ground up or just buy another Rb25det and build that and go respray this thing in a bayside blue with a Rocket bunny kit 🤷🏻‍♂️ 

On 24/4/2024 at 6:14 AM, joshuaho96 said:

WTF is that engine bay. They didn't even mask off the brake master cylinder or reservoir before going at it?!

Trust me I know i am Re doing it all properly thing is horrendous butttt I wanted a project when I looked at the master cylinder etc I was dying 😂😂

On 24/4/2024 at 7:14 AM, PLYNX said:

My eyes ! My eyes ! I'm blinded now for life !

Hunt down the people who did that and destroy them !

Sacrilege to the God of Skylines !

Oh the humanity !

OK I'm better now  !

As joshuah96 said but looks like the clutch master cylinder was out before it was painted !

Very sus that !

Don’t worry I will bring her back to what she deserves to be dude was incredibly head doing I seen it and went this poor poor 32, I took it upon myself to actually take care

of her !!! Going to be doing a big overhaul just want to make sure about the motor before I go spending big $$$$ atm I only got a new GTR jsai front bar with vents , smoked side indicators new spark plugs the ones I removed were black as shit (running rich) and a Aeroflow 6262 .82 T4 I really want to do more digging on the motor before I throw some money 

On 24/4/2024 at 11:20 AM, GTSBoy said:

Meh, just saw the Nissan badge on the plenum on the thumbnail and presumed it wasn't as nasty a fake up as

On 24/4/2024 at 7:58 AM, GTSBoy said:

There is absolutely no way to tell. What we can tell you is that it is an RB. It has a single, low mounted turbo, so it would seem likely that it is an R20 or 25, but it has RB26 inlet side and valve covers. As it is clearly a frankenstein, it could be absolutely anything. It is unlikely to be good, unless the person responsible for the painting was not also responsible for the engine.

That bracket is not a bracket and it is not broken. It is the top end of the suspension upright, connected to the outer end of the front upper control arm. It is your suspension. Take the wheel off and look at it.

I ended up removing all good I was freaking out as I was like wtf couldn’t see and my tools were 4 hours away

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...