Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking for a direct bolt on turbo upgrade for my 93 R33 GTST.  Anyone have experience with this Greddy T620Z turbo upgrade? I'd like to be able to run about 300hp to the rear wheels without putting too much strain on the turbo. I do daily drive the car.  Pretty stock car with basic bolt ons (exhaust outlet, down pipe, high flow cat and catback exhaust along with intake and FMIC).  I'l probably have a Haltech plug n play on the car before installing the turbo.

https://www.greddy.com/products/turbo-upgrade-ecr33-er34-t620z-rb25-11520057

 

Also, any thought on this much boost on a 30 year old motor with 250,000KMs?  Engine feels/sounds strong for what it's worth.

 

Thanks you in advance!

A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead. 

If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/

If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration. 

If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade. 

No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing. 

 

  • Like 1

300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish).

If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile :)

  • Like 1

Wasn't there some discussion of how the Hypergear high flow actually has different dimensions so it's not a true bolt-on replacement? Honestly if that's the case I would consider just going true twin scroll and go down a massive rabbit hole of getting all that to package as close to stock as possible.

52 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Wasn't there some discussion of how the Hypergear high flow actually has different dimensions so it's not a true bolt-on replacement? Honestly if that's the case I would consider just going true twin scroll and go down a massive rabbit hole of getting all that to package as close to stock as possible.

Yeah - the Hitachi core is huge (long) and the core Tao uses is quite short, so the compressor housing moves backwards.

But I wouldn't let that stop me. In fact, I didn't.

But I imagine that the correct thing to do is to go for the latest G series on an Artec manifold. In V band. And f**k the twin scroll, because short short Artec manifold runners + easy install/removal/adjustment outweigh the small loss in spool.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah - the Hitachi core is huge (long) and the core Tao uses is quite short, so the compressor housing moves backwards.

But I wouldn't let that stop me. In fact, I didn't.

But I imagine that the correct thing to do is to go for the latest G series on an Artec manifold. In V band. And f**k the twin scroll, because short short Artec manifold runners + easy install/removal/adjustment outweigh the small loss in spool.

Yeah, but twin scroll is the OEM thing and I love pain.

11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

There's no twin scroll on the OEM turbos. On the manifold, kinda, yes. Not on the turbos.

Rather it's the OEM thing these days. I don't think I see single turbo monoscroll on any I6. Obviously back then twin scroll turbos weren't readily available so I saw a lot of "twin entry" designs which had a divider on the manifold but nothing on the turbo.

45 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

which had a divider on the manifold but nothing on the turbo

And that alone was a huge improvement to single merge collector.

Those early "experts", used to grind down the divider for "flow" and lost response.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
    • Wrinkle black will be a thing for both
×
×
  • Create New...