Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Is anyone running these axles?

R32, R33, R34 GTR front Axles. shafts itself rated 950hp. Suit all RB26 engines Croydon, Melbourne, Victoria

Would be nice to pay half the cost of Driveshaft Shop Axles. I'm building an AWD S13 Coupe that is very low ride height (high cv angle) compared to stock R32. Has an RB30 with appx 600whp.

Just looking for feedback.

Thanks,

Josh-

https://www.instagram.com/feng_shui_garage/

Edited by Josh K.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486322-crank-motorsports-front-axles/
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Duncan said:

but can I ask why not use standard gtr/gts4 axles at the front?

I think that might be in the question. He is going very low, and I think the standard GTR ones are simple tripod joints (like the rear NA/S chassis ones), not proper CVs (like R chassis turbo/GTR ones). Proper CVs take the misalignment better than tripods.

  • Like 1

I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)

The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".

20250525_182220.jpg

20250529_154023.jpg

20250525_184011.jpg

Edited by Josh K.

Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car.

The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car.

I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem.

But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate!

It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK.

Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).

Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life.

OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further.

It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.

Edited by Josh K.
15 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 

I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.

 

22 hours ago, Josh K. said:

Is anyone running these axles?

R32, R33, R34 GTR front Axles. shafts itself rated 950hp. Suit all RB26 engines Croydon, Melbourne, Victoria

Would be nice to pay half the cost of Driveshaft Shop Axles. I'm building an AWD S13 Coupe that is very low ride height (high cv angle) compared to stock R32. Has an RB30 with appx 600whp.

Just looking for feedback.

Thanks,

Josh-

https://www.instagram.com/feng_shui_garage/

Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.

Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do.

However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end).
You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration.

Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs.

Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor.

This is just for you to ponder as an idea.

1 hour ago, funkymonkey said:

I was just watching these boys up in QLD AWD'ing their S13 too.

 

Thanks for sharing. That's a great video!

My buddy is doing the same thing on his build (S chassis struts and towers). He's building an S14 with billet RB30 shooting for 2000whp... a race car with a TH400 just like this video.

For a road car I just couldn't go this route as the strut has to be almost vertical and the caster is not going to pivot correctly (let alone camber gain). You think the R32 frontend is bad, wait till you put a MacPherson strut on without modeling it all in Solidworks to check geometry.

I'm not saying it's a bad way to do it but I'd be really curious to see how it affects the geometry.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...