Jump to content
SAU Community

Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

patrickxdf12
 Share

Recommended Posts

patrickxdf12 Newbie

patrickxdf12

Posted
Posted

Hello! 
i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box 
When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486443-squeaking-clutchthrow-out-bearing/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

When you say it is smoking from the gearbox area....is the clutch also slipping? On an uphill put it in a high gear and see if the revs rise faster than your speed does.

It is possible that the pedal or slave cylinder needs adjustment; have someone make sure that when the clutch pedal is up that there is some movement in the fork; if it is preloaded then you either need to back off the pedal length under the dash or use a shorter clutch slave rod.

If the fork is not preloaded but the clutch is still dragging you might have an issue with the release bearing size, that would be box out to measure and fix

patrickxdf12 Newbie

patrickxdf12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the reply. Yes the fork is preloaded. I also want to ask there is only one way for the throw out bearing to go on right? The flat side should go towards the gearbox. I am using an 18mm clutch release bearing sleeve.

IMG_5778.jpeg

IMG_5777.jpeg

IMG_5779.jpeg

  • 4 weeks later...
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, jayden_l33 said:

I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 

Is your clutch fork also preloaded like OPs was?

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Is your clutch fork also preloaded like OPs was?

How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.
 

15 hours ago, jayden_l33 said:

I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 

If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.

  • 3 weeks later...
jayden_l33 Newbie

jayden_l33

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 02/09/2025 at 8:26 AM, joshuaho96 said:

How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.
 

If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.

It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!

 

 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.2426bd26bc31733f9ed0179b7aed87b8.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.e24dd860452670aa01dbef114ab49411.jpeg

Edited by jayden_l33
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, jayden_l33 said:

It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!

 

 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.2426bd26bc31733f9ed0179b7aed87b8.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.e24dd860452670aa01dbef114ab49411.jpeg

Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, jayden_l33 said:

It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!

Thanks for coming back to post the update, maybe it will help out the next person!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rezz
      First time Skyline owner

      By Rezz · Posted

      Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Chickos Cruise

      By Matt Z · Posted

      Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • MBS206
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • tylink720
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By tylink720 · Posted

      The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • MBS206
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By MBS206 · Posted

      What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
×
×
  • Create New...