Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is your car a S2? If you have a neo motor I would have thought you would be producing closer to 200rwkw. (I am only guessing this based on the level of mods between your car and mine looks similar)

S1 so non neo engine.....

atomalty,

I made 265rwkw in mine, my mechanic installed every part from stock and is just right around the corner form R.E Customs in you wanted to pop in and get hime to work on it.

It was a brilliant car to drive when it was finished.

Ooo pm me the contact. :)

RS4S opens up lots of choices for ECU's from PowerFC, ViPEC, LinkG4, E-MU, Nistune etc.

standard turbo, exhaust, FMIC, a little more boost usually = around 200rwkw +/- 10kw (remove the front driveshaft for 2wheel dyno)

AWK won't be that different but subtract a few kw's.

pull the front driveshaft and back to back test it on the 4W dyno then we will all know the difference on a stagea. :)

i'm leaning towards the nistune.. anyone else got a nistune on their RS4S ? :cool:

where would be the best place in Melbourne to get one installed? (RECustoms? :P )

or is there anyone else who would reccommend something else? (for a similar price) ;)

i'm leaning towards the nistune.. anyone else got a nistune on their RS4S ? :P

where would be the best place in Melbourne to get one installed? (RECustoms? ;) )

or is there anyone else who would reccommend something else? (for a similar price) :)

Status Tuning in Dandenong.

Trent (URAS on here) does a heap of different ECU's and piggybacks.

^^^ yeah what he says.

talk to trent about what you want and he is more than qualified to match an ECU to your needs.

nistune was not an option when i installed the powerfc on my RS4S plus i have a powerfc and datalogit already for the R33 so this was the best option for me at the time it went in.

You're making over 400bhp already - what else do you have planned for it?

hey :thumbsup:

got 8x S15 480cc injectors already, and a remap planned with Toshi.

just need to save, then will have 2 chips - 1 for stock inj. 240rwkw & 1 for 480cc inj. 260rwkw

:banana:

  • 3 weeks later...
i'm leaning towards the nistune.. anyone else got a nistune on their RS4S ? :P

where would be the best place in Melbourne to get one installed? (RECustoms? :P )

or is there anyone else who would reccommend something else? (for a similar price) :P

Very, very impressed with 'Springy Motors' at Springvale. Speak to George - he's a legend. Got my car back yesterday and it goes like a new machine! See the results of my setup below:

2000 Stagea RS-Four S

'Nistune' computer + tune

3" turbo-back (JJR front pipe, Catco hi-flow Cat, and HKS Hi-Power Silent cat-back & Calsonic Hi-Flow Air Filter)

Cooling Pro 'Stealth' FMIC (Finally got this fitted correctly at Springy too!)

Boost tweaked to max. spike of 14psi.

post-52103-1247746870_thumb.jpgpost-52103-1247746881_thumb.jpg

I didn't think was too bad a number for 4-wheels! I'd be happy to PM you with more info, Atomaly.

+60 kw with a tune? That's a fantastic result. All s2 owners would benefit from getting the nistune as early as possible so as to gain maximum benefit from each subsequent mod!

Although it is a pretty amazing increase, the 125kW figure would have been a bit higher before I put the FMIC in (I had a cooler pressure leak and a split hose at the bleed-valve). With the stock setup, the power didn't dip off that noticeably in that range. I might have gotten around 140kW originally, but still, an increase of even 40kW is just awesome! The car feels great now - you can really notice the g-force kick after about 4,000rpm now, and you can feel the four wheels just getting the power down in lower gears without breaking traction. Stoked with the outcome. Highly recommend the 'bang-for-your-buck' value of the Nistune. There's no gizmos or adjustment in-cab, but I didn't want all that anyway.The results speak for themselves, and the car is now setup specifically for my mods.

  • 1 month later...

Well I have finally reached the limits of my current sidemount at 225.7 AWKW. Car was making more power but smic was getting hot so current tune is the safe setting. I conclude that the GTT or s2 smic is good for about 220AWKW but you would probably see benefits from a front mount from about 200AWKW onwards (i.e. when you replace your turbo). In my case I am going to stick with the smic but I'm looking for an ARC one which should enable me to retune to 240AWKW which will do me for now. Car seems very fast now (80-120km/hr in 3 seconds flat) and I will try to get a 1/4 mile time this summer ( won't be that flash but Í am interested to know).

Relevant mods (excluding the thousands I have spent on suspension and brakes):

76mm exhaust with split dump and no cat (still a bit restrictive as very quiet)

Stock turbo highflowed by GCG

Walbro fuel pump wired to full battery voltage.

550 DeatschWerks injectors

Z32 AFM

Nismo smic (similar in size to GTT but allegedly slightly more efficient)

Pipercross panel filter in stock airbox

GReddy adjustable exhaust cam gear (set at 3.5 deg ret so 4 deg pretty muuch OK)

Jaycar IEBC set at 1 bar

R32 ecu chipped by X-tune and piggybacked on to stock ecu.

Thanks to Joe (Joe's Mechanical Services) and Andy (X-Tune)

post-49463-1252035650_thumb.jpgpost-49463-1252034344_thumb.jpg

I'm not the expert! Z32 was an option but Andy the electronics whizz chose the R32 one. There was a heap of work involved. If I did it again I think I would go with either the Greddy E-Manage or get a wire in Link (Vipec).

Very nice power - what boost are you running every day on the road?

Its not an everyday road car but at the moment the profec b is set at 1.2 and 1.56 . I have the Greddy remote boost switch on the steering wheel which swops it over at a touch (definately the best toy I have ever bought :banana: )

Edited by RSVFOURUK

Well I can't compete with those 500hp+ figures from the UK, or Tangles' awesome S1, but here are my 'before' and 'after's. First one was done at my 100K service and was completely stock apart from a K&N panel filter in the stock airbox. Then there were some mod's, and a re-tune. I am very happy with the result so far anyway.

Before:

post-32445-1252584777_thumb.jpg

After:

post-32445-1252584787_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...