Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pretty sure the consensus on squaky suspension is the upper control arm to upright bushes

i remember someone saying that they drilled and tapped theirs and put grease nipples on them

alternatively, hit them with some wd40 and see if it goes away

  • 1 month later...

Suspension upgrade m35

Can anyone point me in the direction of a suspension business that deals with stegeas in Adelaide ?

I'm looking to upgrade my 01 m35 to poss bc coilovers seems to be the product of choice , car is used for daily use family wagon but 80k old original shocks are getting g pretty floaty with a fair bit of roll . I guess bushes should be replaced at the same time too . I'm not going to attempt the job , don't have the equip but is it a cheaper opp to buy the parts online and then find Someone local to install ? Appriciate any advice cheers

  • 1 month later...

Suspension upgrade m35

Can anyone point me in the direction of a suspension business that deals with stegeas in Adelaide ?

I'm looking to upgrade my 01 m35 to poss bc coilovers seems to be the product of choice , car is used for daily use family wagon but 80k old original shocks are getting g pretty floaty with a fair bit of roll . I guess bushes should be replaced at the same time too . I'm not going to attempt the job , don't have the equip but is it a cheaper opp to buy the parts online and then find Someone local to install ? Appriciate any advice cheers

What area are you in?

Aps, I just had all of what you're talking about done by Greg at Gregs Alignment Solutions ( http://www.yellowpages.com.au/sa/regency-park/gregs-alignment-solutions-11933600-listing.html )

Give him a call if you want to price those options up, he did a really good job - I'm super happy with the alignment. Feel free to let him know I sent you also.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Any one with an s2 C34 had any problems with the front swaybar link (left hand) hitting the crossmember over bumps? I have replaced the 'D' bushes and links with new genuine (link ball joints were gone) and made a differance with handling but after a week same thing when over a big dip turning or out of the driveway. Thinking bent sway bar? Very strange i think my car is telling me it needs coilovers :laugh:

Any one with an s2 C34 had any problems with the front swaybar link (left hand) hitting the crossmember over bumps? I have replaced the 'D' bushes and links with new genuine (link ball joints were gone) and made a differance with handling but after a week same thing when over a big dip turning or out of the driveway. Thinking bent sway bar? Very strange i think my car is telling me it needs coilovers :laugh:

The bar could be sliding to one side causing the issue you describe.

Check it & see if it's off centre. You might need a set of lateral locks on the bar.

The bar could be sliding to one side causing the issue you describe.

Check it & see if it's off centre. You might need a set of lateral locks on the bar.

You are correct! I did notice the left hand little rubber thing was loose on there and the other side was stuck to the sway bar. I pulle the swaybar back to centre and hose clamped the rubber in place. Problem solvered! Cheers heaps!

  • 2 weeks later...

You are correct! I did notice the left hand little rubber thing was loose on there and the other side was stuck to the sway bar. I pulle the swaybar back to centre and hose clamped the rubber in place. Problem solvered! Cheers heaps!

That won't last. I've used the poly lateral locks years ago when I first put on my sway bar as I was having the exact same issue. They lasted a few weeks before the bar was pushing through. Make sure you don't tighten the D bush clamps until you have full weight on the front suspension. But I still had the issue on and off for a couple of years and just put up with it. I knew my factory links were pretty crap. I replaced them with whiteline adjustable links. After playing around with the links for a bit I've never heard it rubbing again.

That won't last. I've used the poly lateral locks years ago when I first put on my sway bar as I was having the exact same issue. They lasted a few weeks before the bar was pushing through. Make sure you don't tighten the D bush clamps until you have full weight on the front suspension. But I still had the issue on and off for a couple of years and just put up with it. I knew my factory links were pretty crap. I replaced them with whiteline adjustable links. After playing around with the links for a bit I've never heard it rubbing again.

You're right it hasn't :( it makes a massive difference to handling as well :( I did the D bushes withe the car on the ground. Will an aftermarket sway bar (33 gtr whiteline) fix the problem? How much we're the links? Got a part number?

I wonder why it does this ?

You're right it hasn't :( it makes a massive difference to handling as well :( I did the D bushes withe the car on the ground. Will an aftermarket sway bar (33 gtr whiteline) fix the problem? How much we're the links? Got a part number?

I wonder why it does this ?

What is the dia of the front bar?

I have a set of 22mm billet lateral locks at home; but they only cost about $20 a set, so I can source them for you if you like?

I have seen people using worm drive hose clamps in tight situations, perhaps they could get you out of trouble for now?

I would go with the billet alloy ones Daleo has though, oh that's right, I did. :)

I bought mine from Dale but was a while ago now. But I remember the price was good. I've also tried worm clamps on the poly bushes as well. Trust me the bar won't be the problem. The adjustable links allow you to adjust preload on either side of the bar. Mind you the billet locks weren't around when I first got my bar (6 years ago now) and I got the links because my oem ones were stuffed. Been at least 18months or more now and no more issues. So seeing as you've got new oem links maybe try the alloy locks first.

  • 2 weeks later...

anyone suggest some places pref in melb to purchase some spring/shocks from? i just purchased a set of rear R34 GTR Nismo adjustable dampener struts, what springs would you suggest for a RS4S? are the king springs listed in the catalogue to suit R33/R34 ok or not stiff enough?

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...

So I've read about 30+ pages and scoured the Internet for a few weeks and I can't find my answer.

Ebach and whiteline don't sell springs anymore. And shipping from Japan is too expensive.

What lowered springs fit the standard stagea shocks?

I plan on doing sway bars and lowered springs. As my 9.5" rear rims are a finger gap away from the standard strut and I doubt coilovers will fit.

Sorry! i can't edit my posts.

I've read about 30+ pages and scoured the Internet for a few weeks and I can't find a definitive answer.

I don't think i can use aftermarket coilovers as i only have a cm of clearance from the stock shock to the rim and i have a cm of poke so i can't use spacers.

What lowered springs fit the standard stagea shocks?

I've read a few threads where people say that 33gtr front springs and 33gtst rear springs fit the standard stagea shocks. But from reading these posts it seems as though they're confusing springs with shocks with coilovers, as everyone has said the 33gtst rears have a larger top hat. So in theory the springs will not fit the standard stagea shock?

The stock stagea spring rates are Front - 2.9 & Rear - 3.1 Most aftermarket spring rates are in the mid 3's F&R So this should compensate for the heavier rear end?

Please i really need some help as information is scarce!

I would like to track the car, but it will probably never happen, most of my driving is at the posted 70kph with plenty of round abouts and sharp corners, I like the car to feel less boaty (rims made a huge difference), this is my reason for harder lower springs and sway bars. Just coilovers wont give as good of an upgrade, is this correct?

I've tried to give as much information as possible.

I've also emailed a few companies but have not received any replies.

What lowered springs fit the standard stagea shocks?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...