Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, Duncan said:

weird, I have standard r34 GTR wheels (18x9 +30) on my factory auto and they fit perfect inside and out

Too low that’s the same size I have as well and if you go to low you get rubing 

12 minutes ago, RBW49N said:

It will alter the track of the car and enable you to run less camber without hitting the outer guard and give the coil over clearance 

Interesting so wouldn’t need to change rims or anything. Have you done this swap/seen it done before with a stagea? 

5 minutes ago, RBW49N said:

I havnt done it myself but I do need to do it. Plenty of people have done it and factory manual cars have that same width so they have less issues with wheels hitting at low heights

Sounds like a good option for me to look into, thanks for the info appreciate it 👌🏻👍🏻

  • 1 month later...

So currently im running a set of TEIN Lowdown spec, freestyle master, Superflex Wagons (long name i know aha)
Numbers on it are GRN78-11931, WGNC34-F, 1F017. Probably wont really matter the numbers. 
Anyhows, had my car driven by me pops earlier today on Old Pacific Hwy, to get an idea of what to do regarding suspension. Final verdict was shocks needs a rebuild/replacing, control arm bushings are worn out, and better tyres (currently running winrun r330 215/50/17 for now).

Just wondering whether I should get the teins rebuilt etc or go for the bilstein setup (will mainly be street driven and may may may-be get tracked). 

As for bushings, just deciding on whether to replace the stock control arms etc with adjustables , or to just replace the bushings with most likely polyurethane on the ole stock arms etc.

20 hours ago, Wazmond said:

So currently im running a set of TEIN Lowdown spec, freestyle master, Superflex Wagons (long name i know aha)
Numbers on it are GRN78-11931, WGNC34-F, 1F017. Probably wont really matter the numbers. 
Anyhows, had my car driven by me pops earlier today on Old Pacific Hwy, to get an idea of what to do regarding suspension. Final verdict was shocks needs a rebuild/replacing, control arm bushings are worn out, and better tyres (currently running winrun r330 215/50/17 for now).

Just wondering whether I should get the teins rebuilt etc or go for the bilstein setup (will mainly be street driven and may may may-be get tracked). 

As for bushings, just deciding on whether to replace the stock control arms etc with adjustables , or to just replace the bushings with most likely polyurethane on the ole stock arms etc.

It’s a lot of time and effort to get the Teins rebuilt when you could get some nice Bilsteins in there for similar money  and have a better overall ride. 
some bushes like the radius rods are better in Heim/rose joints and others (all of the others) are better in polyurethane for a road car

Hmm. My approach to the question of rebuild Teins or buy Bilstein is...neither.

I got about the last set of revalved Bilsteins that Gary did. They were substantially better than the exact same model, not worn out, but not revalved Bilsteins I already had in the car. If I couldn't get something with same/similar valving, I don't think I could buy B6s.

I do not like Teins.

Therefore, if I had to buy suspension for my car again any time soon, I'd probably be buying the hardest edge** street/track coilovers from MCA or Shockworks as I could.

** I say hardest edge, meaning the sportiest stuff they do that they reckon can be driven on the street without just being totally inappropriate for that task.

Hi guys, I do have set of rear Stagea Gen1/2 Bilsteins revalved, only used as a test fit for a couple of days.  They are height adj coil overs, used strut tops with new sphericals and Whiteline stacked springs, a helper/tender plus a 265lb main spring. 

If you need fronts I can still source them, but delivery is from Germany so not overnight.

Cheers

Gary

  • Like 1

It's also worth mentioning you can get custom valved suspension revalved. My OG ones from SK above did eventually start leaking after many years, and I contacted Bilstein Australia on FB who directed me to Sydney Shocks who repaired and revalved mine to my what I asked for, after they had a chat/consult about the handling behaviour I wanted in the shocks.

Lets just say they ended up pretty different, and they did exactly what I asked of them. So the expertise is definitely there!

1 hour ago, Sydneykid said:

Hi guys, I do have set of rear Stagea Gen1/2 Bilsteins revalved, only used as a test fit for a couple of days.  They are height adj coil overs, used strut tops with new sphericals and Whiteline stacked springs, a helper/tender plus a 265lb main spring. 

If you need fronts I can still source them, but delivery is from Germany so not overnight.

Cheers

Gary

Great to hear from you Gary

  • Like 1
On 15/04/2024 at 10:11 AM, Sydneykid said:

Hi guys, I do have set of rear Stagea Gen1/2 Bilsteins revalved, only used as a test fit for a couple of days.  They are height adj coil overs, used strut tops with new sphericals and Whiteline stacked springs, a helper/tender plus a 265lb main spring. 

If you need fronts I can still source them, but delivery is from Germany so not overnight.

Cheers

Gary

Would they fit the series 2 awd auto? Assuming theyre still in decent shape, how much are you asking for (including fronts)? Not in a rush to get them as im using the TEINS they came with, just a rough ride.
 

On 14/04/2024 at 11:21 PM, GTSBoy said:

Therefore, if I had to buy suspension for my car again any time soon, I'd probably be buying the hardest edge** street/track coilovers from MCA or Shockworks as I could.

Yeah, considering I cant afford a very nice set of coilovers, im thinkin Voston Comforts (Sent MCA an email, and theyre saying Voston Sports though but 13/8KG I reckon would be too stiff). In that price range, was considering the BC-BR RS( rubber mount, not pillowball). not sure of spring rates yet, but my thoughts so far.

29 minutes ago, Wazmond said:

(Sent MCA an email, and theyre saying Voston Sports though but 13/8KG I reckon would be too stiff)

I think you'd be surprised. The quality of the damping is very important (which MCA obviously take some care over). This is the reason I do not like Teins, because even with 8/6 kg springs, I think their damping is rubbish.

MCA are in the camp of "very high spring rate, low ARB rate". Hence the really heavy springs on their gear. I think Gary's approach was from the opposite camp, which is to keep the spring rates lower and control roll with bars - although granted my only association with him is wrt to his B6 based setup for street Skylines and for that he was constrained to use off the shelf stock format springs and stock format mass market dampers (albeit revalved for improved performance). It's very much a horses for courses thing though, as both approaches are ultimately compromises that will favour one usage model over another, and they do not end up being totally equivalent to each other.

I had teins on my Forester turbo, loved them to a degree because of the EDFC.  Well 2yrs ago my son realigned my suspension geometry for me resulting in two non serviceable coil overs. Was not going to replace with more teins as I hated the ‘crunches’ and through your spine stiff as a mofo impacts. So, I spoke to MCA and they set me up with some soft street duty coil overs for about $2,400. Night and day but still on the stiffer side

31 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I think you'd be surprised. The quality of the damping is very important (which MCA obviously take some care over). This is the reason I do not like Teins, because even with 8/6 kg springs, I think their damping is rubbish.

MCA are in the camp of "very high spring rate, low ARB rate". Hence the really heavy springs on their gear. I think Gary's approach was from the opposite camp, which is to keep the spring rates lower and control roll with bars - although granted my only association with him is wrt to his B6 based setup for street Skylines and for that he was constrained to use off the shelf stock format springs and stock format mass market dampers (albeit revalved for improved performance). It's very much a horses for courses thing though, as both approaches are ultimately compromises that will favour one usage model over another, and they do not end up being totally equivalent to each other.

This is completely different to their OG approach. I have the R&D/guinea pig  set of MCA Blue coilovers in my stagea from about 9 years ago. Josh started with a rough R33 spec valving figure and spring rates (which was 10/8kg). We went for a whiteknuckled test drive through the Landsborough hinterland before he decided needed more valving and less spring. Eventually settled for 7/5kg springs and a bunch more valving (unsure of figures). I was running on some Tein Superwagon coilovers at the time and the difference was night and day. And after going for a ride with a fellow stagea chum who runs BC golds, i still believe the MCA Blues i have are still by far a better ride.

As for Voston, as far as i am aware, that is their budget brand and nothing like the Pro series they offer now, or anything like the Blue/Red or Gold series back in the day

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...