Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well the major rust spot to look out for are around the front suspension towers,under the passenger and drivers mirrors,on the inside of the doors along the bottom edge,in and around the fuel neck/filler and around the boot seal. I also like to stick my head underneath the car to see if it has any major scrapes on the under the body or crash damage ie clamp marks on the seal panels,bent front reo ,creases in the skirts. Also lift the spair wheel cover up have a look at the beaver panel make sure the sealer looks original or it could also be a sign of crash damage. 1 last thing have a look inside the engine (take of the oil cap) and see if its clean or really black and dirty this will give u an indicator if the engin has been serviced regally or not also checking the dip stick for oil burn does the same sort of thing good luck with the Purchase

many many thanks to R33huntme

no worries something else to look at, the wear on the steering wheel Especially on the right side were u hang on and dents/wear marks on the drivers floor/Matt it's a tell tail sign of the kms the more were and tear the more kms it should have (u never can tell if the kms have been played with at least this will help

White C34 sitting on Main Street, Greensborough waiting to turn right up St Helena Road yesterday around midday.

I was in the yellow Stag which turned out of St Helena and went up Diamond Creek Road.

Another white stag, different to the one yesterday I think (the one yesterday had roof racks).

This time I passed it on the Greensborough Highway near the Civic Drive roundabout. I gave a toot and thumbs up on the way past (was on the red/white R1).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...